DougM

On my '84 I would like to remove and rebuild the 1/2 shafts. The trans side is removed and hanging. How do you remove from the hub side? Should it just pull out?

dr bob

With the nut removed on the end of the stub axle, it should slide out of the hub. If need be, you can use a block of wood on the end and a hammer to start it moving. IIRC, the splines should be lubricated with copper anti-sieze so it shouldn't take much to get it moving. Do support the inner ends a bit-- the axles shouldn't be hanging on the CV joints.

DougM

what nut are you talking about?

928Myles

There is a large, very tight nut in the centre (outside) of the wheel hub that will need to be removed before you can proceed.

Landseer

Doug,

If you set the ebrake, and also block the wheel, you might be able to hold it stationary to remove the nut.

Its torqued at something like 315. I think its 32mm and that 1 1/4 will work.

The wheel center cap can be removed for access.

Its possible to remove the wheel, run a jackhandle through the studs and pin it against the floor, then turn against it to break the nut free. Its on jackstands/jack at that point, so be aware.

I've also used a rattle gun to remove them.

dr bob

^^^^What he said.

The axle assembly includes the inner CV joint, the half-shaft, the outer CV joint, and a splined stub-axle section that engages the rear wheel hub. The rear wheel hub floats in a dohuble-row bearing that's pressed into the suspension upright, and has the rear wheel bolted to it. On the end of that stub axle, outside face of the rear wheel hub, a nut secures the stub axle in place. That nut also provides preload to the rear wheel bearings, so once it is loose, you need to have the rear wheelsoff the ground.

The tightening torque for that nut is about 325 lbs/ft. Since it's been on there a while, it's going to take significantly more torque to remove it. I use a 3/4-drive socket with a drive adapter to a 5-foot-long bar to get the nuts loose. With someone pressing on the brakes hard, you should be able to get it to move. Waste no tme fiddling with 1/2"-drive bars and sockets; most folks who try those small tools end up breaking them. A typical 18"-long 1/2" drive breaker bar needs at least 300 lbs on the end of it before the nut even thinks of moving. So a pipe is slipped over the breaker bar, and the drive end is twisted off. Then you'll be shopping for the bigger tools, plus the replacementt for the broken 1/2" breaker bar.

Dwayne

Hello DougM,
I also have an '84 and removed/serviced the CV joints on the rear axle. Here's a link to the write up, if it helps. Let us know how it goes.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-the-pics.html

DougM

Thanks
That is just what I needed.