devek swaybar
03-24-2011, 07:58 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
mine is excellent and just a tad softer than full stiff , doesnt pull the lower bracket bolt out of the mounting. too stiff without that reinforced, and you are going to rip it from the bracket. usually, the bracket itself is fine because you use the stock ones and they are tough. its what it screws into that is not that strong and the force is downward. a simple small bar to box it in is that is needed to strengthen it up. 13 years of dropping 17 stories down the corkscrew and it only broke once on full stiff.. later broke the subframe tear, but that was due to a birm impact highsiding it in a traffic filled corner in a race on the exit of a turn.
They are nice, and infinitely adjustable, which is awesome.
They are nice, and infinitely adjustable, which is awesome.
03-24-2011, 07:58 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
03-24-2011, 09:35 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Devek Front Sway Bar. It is blue.
Thanks Mark, I didn't know if the Devek bar had it's own clamps or used the stock ones. Now I just need to find one for the driver's side.
The missing part is the clamp that goes around the bushing. No idea where it went. The front threads look okay, like maybe the bolt just fell out. There is a small piece of the clamp still held on by the rear bolt. Looks broken off in the middle of where the rear bold holds it on.
Was trying to adjust the bar stiffer because the car was getting loose when I noticed the clamp was gone off the bushing.
I never had any problems with the Devek bar or front sway bar mounts on my 90 GT.
Thanks Mark, I didn't know if the Devek bar had it's own clamps or used the stock ones. Now I just need to find one for the driver's side.
The missing part is the clamp that goes around the bushing. No idea where it went. The front threads look okay, like maybe the bolt just fell out. There is a small piece of the clamp still held on by the rear bolt. Looks broken off in the middle of where the rear bold holds it on.
Was trying to adjust the bar stiffer because the car was getting loose when I noticed the clamp was gone off the bushing.
I never had any problems with the Devek bar or front sway bar mounts on my 90 GT.
03-25-2011, 01:34 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
so, it broke? thats really odd. you have part of a clamp still attached?
you just need a new one and the one lower bolt. yes, if the bolt is loose it will eventually fall out, but the bar will rock up and down and break the mount. thats what i bet happened.
you just need a new one and the one lower bolt. yes, if the bolt is loose it will eventually fall out, but the bar will rock up and down and break the mount. thats what i bet happened.
Devek Front Sway Bar. It is blue.
Thanks Mark, I didn't know if the Devek bar had it's own clamps or used the stock ones. Now I just need to find one for the driver's side.
The missing part is the clamp that goes around the bushing. No idea where it went. The front threads look okay, like maybe the bolt just fell out. There is a small piece of the clamp still held on by the rear bolt. Looks broken off in the middle of where the rear bold holds it on.
Was trying to adjust the bar stiffer because the car was getting loose when I noticed the clamp was gone off the bushing.
I never had any problems with the Devek bar or front sway bar mounts on my 90 GT.
Thanks Mark, I didn't know if the Devek bar had it's own clamps or used the stock ones. Now I just need to find one for the driver's side.
The missing part is the clamp that goes around the bushing. No idea where it went. The front threads look okay, like maybe the bolt just fell out. There is a small piece of the clamp still held on by the rear bolt. Looks broken off in the middle of where the rear bold holds it on.
Was trying to adjust the bar stiffer because the car was getting loose when I noticed the clamp was gone off the bushing.
I never had any problems with the Devek bar or front sway bar mounts on my 90 GT.
03-25-2011, 02:45 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
As Mark says, the mounting brackets should also be reinforced- I can send you photo of mine if you PM me.
Regards
Fred R
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03-25-2011, 06:23 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Two years ago, right after I got the GTS my local Porsche wrench inspected the sway bar mounts (because he knew it was an aftermarked DEVEK bar) and did some welding on the frame brackets the clamps bolt to to strengthen them and prevent any future problems with the brackets breaking away from the body. Guess they didn't think of the bolt holding the clamp around the bushing falling out.
The interesting thing to me is I haven't heard or felt any clunking from that side of the sway bar basically being free to move around. All I noticed was the car was loose, ie., oversteering and the PSD light coming on in the slightest turn where it didn't before. Also noticed in some photos of me going around turns that the outside front was low and inside rear was lifting. Oh and about 4 seconds slower lap times compared to my other autocross competitors. Loose is fun, but it is NOT fast.
By adjustable piston I assume you mean Drop Link.
The interesting thing to me is I haven't heard or felt any clunking from that side of the sway bar basically being free to move around. All I noticed was the car was loose, ie., oversteering and the PSD light coming on in the slightest turn where it didn't before. Also noticed in some photos of me going around turns that the outside front was low and inside rear was lifting. Oh and about 4 seconds slower lap times compared to my other autocross competitors. Loose is fun, but it is NOT fast.
By adjustable piston I assume you mean Drop Link.
03-25-2011, 04:00 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
By adjustable piston I mean the rod that slides through the sway bar to adjust the overturning moment. When fully engaged the bar is at its stiffest [understeer end of range].
When the bracket is not connected at all [as you describe] the car will be very tail happy but the same characteristic will happen if the bracket fell off the stock roll bar as there is nothing to resist roll.
From my perspective the Devek bar is effectively worthless if the 928 has stock front wheels because a stock 928 somewhat chronically understeers [Porsche considers this a safe option it seems] so no point in having a stiffer bar to exaggerate that effect.
All this changes when you have wide front tires [255 section or like mine at 265
]. It seems that this change is much more dramatic than increasing the rear tire section by the same amount. Thus with 265 up front and 295 on the rear I find the car more or less needs the full bar to give the car the neutral kind of feel that I like/fell comfortable with. If you want it to be a bit more tail happy then you soften the bar a bit by extending the length.
A good driver will probably get more out of a 928 that is slightly tail happy but it is the ability to tune the handling to suit your style/event that matters and that is where the Devek bar scores big time IMHO when you improve front end traction. With no roll bar at the lap times will be well and truly up the shoot.
If one does not have big rubber up front then the chances are that the load transferred will not upset the stock bracket too much. However, if you have the Devek bar working the way it is intended to work bracing the bracket adequately is absolutely necessary or it will be ripped off.
Regards
Fred
When the bracket is not connected at all [as you describe] the car will be very tail happy but the same characteristic will happen if the bracket fell off the stock roll bar as there is nothing to resist roll.
From my perspective the Devek bar is effectively worthless if the 928 has stock front wheels because a stock 928 somewhat chronically understeers [Porsche considers this a safe option it seems] so no point in having a stiffer bar to exaggerate that effect.
All this changes when you have wide front tires [255 section or like mine at 265
]. It seems that this change is much more dramatic than increasing the rear tire section by the same amount. Thus with 265 up front and 295 on the rear I find the car more or less needs the full bar to give the car the neutral kind of feel that I like/fell comfortable with. If you want it to be a bit more tail happy then you soften the bar a bit by extending the length.A good driver will probably get more out of a 928 that is slightly tail happy but it is the ability to tune the handling to suit your style/event that matters and that is where the Devek bar scores big time IMHO when you improve front end traction. With no roll bar at the lap times will be well and truly up the shoot.
If one does not have big rubber up front then the chances are that the load transferred will not upset the stock bracket too much. However, if you have the Devek bar working the way it is intended to work bracing the bracket adequately is absolutely necessary or it will be ripped off.
Regards
Fred
03-25-2011, 06:28 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
ive raced with my car for the last racing season now. no mods to the bracket at all. the bar is 1" a little softer than how I used to run it. probably the reason my times are 1 second faster now. 
03-26-2011, 12:41 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Regards
Fred
03-26-2011, 01:32 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The clamp came off, not the bracket.
The clamp that is still on the passenger side looks exacty like the one on 928 International web site.
Here is the picture of the car throttle steering around a 150 foot diameter skid pad last June when it was very balanced and I was setting FTD. Assuming before the clamp came loose and fell off. The bars are not set so stiff that there is no body roll.
Only late winter and this spring did it start oversteering. Most noticeable as I get back on throttle to catch the trail braking oversteer rotation on turn in. Where it used to go smoothly into a 4 wheel drift, now I have to counter steer to catch it. That really slows the apex speed. It is also a lot more oversteer sensitive adding throttle on corner exit so it is taking longer before I can get to full throttle.
Running 235 F and 285 R. Have the Ott Steroid drop links on the rear.
When I got the car it did not have the rear Ott Steroid drop links and was understeering with 225/275 Michelins. The drop links on the front Devek bar were not adjusted very well, they were hitting and bending the driver's side tie rod. That may have had something to do with the clamp failure, but it has been over a year since adjusting the drop links to keep the tie rod from getting bent.
I typically set my sway bars by turning the koni reds to full soft, then drive around the skid pad and see which end breaks loose first as I slowly increase speed. After adjusting to get it balanced, both front and rear break loose at the same time, I increase both front and rear until the speed that both break loose starts to get slower. With the Ott drop links I have stock, stiffer, and stiffest. The stiffest is still faster. My 944 Turbo had Weltmeister bars that had sliding adjustments that offered fine tuning the overall anti-sway more closely. I'm actually pretty happy with the Devek front bar because the sliding bar in sleeve lets me really fine tune the stiffness to balance with the rear very very closely. A friend has a 944 Turbo that has the M030 sway bars with 5 adjustment points. Even with 5 one was too soft and the next one was too stiff to really fine tune the balance.
The fine tuning matters because as the turn radius and speed increases oversteer increases. I try to set my car up so the middle of it's balance point is the average turn of the courses we run. That's about 75ft radius, hence the 150ft diameter skid pad.
The clamp that is still on the passenger side looks exacty like the one on 928 International web site.
Here is the picture of the car throttle steering around a 150 foot diameter skid pad last June when it was very balanced and I was setting FTD. Assuming before the clamp came loose and fell off. The bars are not set so stiff that there is no body roll.
Only late winter and this spring did it start oversteering. Most noticeable as I get back on throttle to catch the trail braking oversteer rotation on turn in. Where it used to go smoothly into a 4 wheel drift, now I have to counter steer to catch it. That really slows the apex speed. It is also a lot more oversteer sensitive adding throttle on corner exit so it is taking longer before I can get to full throttle.
Running 235 F and 285 R. Have the Ott Steroid drop links on the rear.
When I got the car it did not have the rear Ott Steroid drop links and was understeering with 225/275 Michelins. The drop links on the front Devek bar were not adjusted very well, they were hitting and bending the driver's side tie rod. That may have had something to do with the clamp failure, but it has been over a year since adjusting the drop links to keep the tie rod from getting bent.
I typically set my sway bars by turning the koni reds to full soft, then drive around the skid pad and see which end breaks loose first as I slowly increase speed. After adjusting to get it balanced, both front and rear break loose at the same time, I increase both front and rear until the speed that both break loose starts to get slower. With the Ott drop links I have stock, stiffer, and stiffest. The stiffest is still faster. My 944 Turbo had Weltmeister bars that had sliding adjustments that offered fine tuning the overall anti-sway more closely. I'm actually pretty happy with the Devek front bar because the sliding bar in sleeve lets me really fine tune the stiffness to balance with the rear very very closely. A friend has a 944 Turbo that has the M030 sway bars with 5 adjustment points. Even with 5 one was too soft and the next one was too stiff to really fine tune the balance.
The fine tuning matters because as the turn radius and speed increases oversteer increases. I try to set my car up so the middle of it's balance point is the average turn of the courses we run. That's about 75ft radius, hence the 150ft diameter skid pad.
Last edited by RKD in OKC; 03-26-2011 at 02:11 AM.
03-26-2011, 01:07 PM
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Richard,
You may just want to pop 2 poly bushings on each side w 2 new clamps. New bolts as well as I assume if the clamp is totally missing, both clamp bolts backed completely out.
You may just want to pop 2 poly bushings on each side w 2 new clamps. New bolts as well as I assume if the clamp is totally missing, both clamp bolts backed completely out.
03-26-2011, 01:34 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Looks like one clamp bolt backed out and the clamp broke off at the rear bolt. Hadn't considered going Poly. On other cars always thought poly made suspension to harsh for my street ridin butt. The roads around here are getting crazy mad rough.