Changed Out Relays - No Start
03-19-2011, 05:06 PM
#1
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Changed Out Relays - No Start
'94 GTS - 5 Spd
OK, so I'm being proactive and decided to change out all the '53' relays (141.951.253.B). Now the car won't start. I've done the search and got some recommendations from Alan. Anyway, downloaded the fuse / relay chart from 928 Specialists and went thru double checking all relays. Come to find out, I had pulled a '53' relay out of #22 socket (EZK Ignition System), but it wasn't suppose to be a '53', it was suppose to be a 928.615.203.00.
So maybe this is why the car won't start, but it certainly doesn't answer why it has started the last 9 years I've owned it.
I've doubled checked... I took a '53' out of #22.
OK, so I'm being proactive and decided to change out all the '53' relays (141.951.253.B). Now the car won't start. I've done the search and got some recommendations from Alan. Anyway, downloaded the fuse / relay chart from 928 Specialists and went thru double checking all relays. Come to find out, I had pulled a '53' relay out of #22 socket (EZK Ignition System), but it wasn't suppose to be a '53', it was suppose to be a 928.615.203.00.
So maybe this is why the car won't start, but it certainly doesn't answer why it has started the last 9 years I've owned it.
I've doubled checked... I took a '53' out of #22.
03-19-2011, 05:07 PM
#2
Did you happen to put one in the 5 speed jumper location? And it is quite possible that one of the new relays is bad, or that a fuse for the fuel pump blew while changing the relays.
I've seen where the pins the relays go in, are pushed out the back side of the central electric panel also.
I've seen where the pins the relays go in, are pushed out the back side of the central electric panel also.
03-19-2011, 05:51 PM
#3
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Sean,
Thanks the quick reply. There is a 'bridge' in socket XVIII (reverse light bridge (5 spd)), therefore, couldn't put anything in there if I wanted to. I think this is what yr talking about?
Also, when the ignition is turned to position 1, you can hear the fuel pump loading up. But just in case, pulled fuse 38 (fuel pump, O2 sensor, heating) and all OK.
I have replaced relays XXII, XXV with the old ones in case one of the new relays was bad, without luck.
I am pulling the relays again to examine the copper strips just visible at the top of the female fitting of the socket to see if one missing indicating maybe it was pushed in. I would rather not have to pull the CE as that approaches the limits of my expertise and all I need is a rash of loose wire problems
Thanks the quick reply. There is a 'bridge' in socket XVIII (reverse light bridge (5 spd)), therefore, couldn't put anything in there if I wanted to. I think this is what yr talking about?
Also, when the ignition is turned to position 1, you can hear the fuel pump loading up. But just in case, pulled fuse 38 (fuel pump, O2 sensor, heating) and all OK.
I have replaced relays XXII, XXV with the old ones in case one of the new relays was bad, without luck.
I am pulling the relays again to examine the copper strips just visible at the top of the female fitting of the socket to see if one missing indicating maybe it was pushed in. I would rather not have to pull the CE as that approaches the limits of my expertise and all I need is a rash of loose wire problems
03-19-2011, 05:54 PM
#4
When you turn the key on, you are hearing the PSD 'loading up' 
The fuel pumps won't run until the computer registers the engine cranking over.
Pull the fuel pump relay (the real hard one to get to, top, far right) and jumper it. Jumping requires putting a wire between the far right and far left slots where the relay fits. You should hear the pump run. If it does run, try to start the car. If it won't start then going to the next step is required.
The fuel pumps won't run until the computer registers the engine cranking over.Pull the fuel pump relay (the real hard one to get to, top, far right) and jumper it. Jumping requires putting a wire between the far right and far left slots where the relay fits. You should hear the pump run. If it does run, try to start the car. If it won't start then going to the next step is required.
03-19-2011, 05:59 PM
#5
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Stupid question, but are you sure you're looking at the correct locations? I know I got confused by the arrows on the CE panel. The arrows are a wedge, which point the way. I never use them though, I just look at the illustration.
03-19-2011, 06:15 PM
#6
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Aryan,
actually, not a stupid question as the numbering system changes relative to the socket. I compared the fue/relay chart to actual to make sure all correct.
However, all... still, can I use a '53 relay in socket #XXII? I believe the answer is 'yes' because that is what was originally there... but it's not what the chart says should be there.
actually, not a stupid question as the numbering system changes relative to the socket. I compared the fue/relay chart to actual to make sure all correct.
However, all... still, can I use a '53 relay in socket #XXII? I believe the answer is 'yes' because that is what was originally there... but it's not what the chart says should be there.
03-19-2011, 06:22 PM
#7
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P/N 928.615.203.00 is the EZK relay that has a built-in fuse tester. It can be replaced by a standard 53 relay.
First thing to try is get a helper, and have them operate the starter while you kneel by the back bumper. You should hear the fuel pump buzz or whine while the starter is operating.
If you hear the pump buzz, open the hood and listen to the injectors while the starter operates. There should be a regular clicking while the starter operates. There should not be any clicking unless the engine is turning over - if there is any clicking with the engine sitting still, the LH ECU may have failed.
First thing to try is get a helper, and have them operate the starter while you kneel by the back bumper. You should hear the fuel pump buzz or whine while the starter is operating.
If you hear the pump buzz, open the hood and listen to the injectors while the starter operates. There should be a regular clicking while the starter operates. There should not be any clicking unless the engine is turning over - if there is any clicking with the engine sitting still, the LH ECU may have failed.
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03-19-2011, 06:53 PM
#9
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The beast lives!!
While awaiting the wife to come home to help, on WallyP's info, I re-installed the '53' into XXII, plus put back several others I had out to examine the sockets. Made sure all conectors were OK and put a thin coat dielectric grease on the blades. Just for the heck of it, cranked her over... started right up. Doesn't make sense as I can't logically say what the problem was. I'm going to have to assume that I must have had one of the relays in a wrong socket.
I'm heading out to street test and bounce her around a bit to make sure no loose connections.
Many thanks to all for their input. Learned much from this. Very good advise and I've printed it all out for future reference
While awaiting the wife to come home to help, on WallyP's info, I re-installed the '53' into XXII, plus put back several others I had out to examine the sockets. Made sure all conectors were OK and put a thin coat dielectric grease on the blades. Just for the heck of it, cranked her over... started right up. Doesn't make sense as I can't logically say what the problem was. I'm going to have to assume that I must have had one of the relays in a wrong socket.
I'm heading out to street test and bounce her around a bit to make sure no loose connections.
Many thanks to all for their input. Learned much from this. Very good advise and I've printed it all out for future reference
