Both my 928's have had this squeaking problem as the door travels- seems worse when rocking the door back and forth when about half open. Seems to come from those tie straps that go into the door. Lubrication does not seem to cure the problem although can ease it a bit.

I seem to remember reading about a fix for this many years ago but cannot remember what is was. On both my 928's it happened on the driver's door so presumably a wear item of some kind.

Regards

Fred

 

I,d like to know a good fix also, my driver side ( UK RHD ) also creaks when opened, hinges are,nt dropped either. Lubeing it does,nt last, I used engine oil on that strap, even took off the door trim panel and greased the strap from the inside.
That usually works great for a couple of weeks , then it,s back to the old creak sound.
The passenger side ( US Driver side ) is as smooth as silk, so obviously a regular wear related item, which applies to the door most regularly used.
Good luck.., hope someone has a fix ?

Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK

 

Most oldish cars tend to do that (all my 928's, 924, beetle and bmw did it)

Clean out all the old oil/grease that is in there and apply some silicone based lubricant. I cant remember the brand or name but the stuff i have is like a white semi transparent stick of the lube stuff. Apply it then the squeak will be gone for good.

I did it to my beetle 9 years ago and to this day never had to reapply and it is still silent.

==================================================
19?? VW Baja Bug (Completely custom, Golf 1.8 motor, and many, many mods) - Currently my daily drive
1988 Porsche 928 S4 Euro/ROW (Black with Ivory interior) - Under ECU surgery
1982 Porsche 924 Euro (Silver with cream interior)- Gone
1982 Porsche 928 S (Manual) Euro (Petrol Blue with Blue with black and white chequered interior) - Gone
1983 Porsche 928 S (Auto, NA spec, Red, black interior) - Gone
1994 BMW 530i Manual (Maroon, grey interior) - Gone

 

the squeak your hearing is the rollers on the door arrester they have become filled with rusty grease you can replace the arrester or rebuild it,
the door panel has to come off first ,
and after you take it apart you can replace the small rubber bush that cushions the stop,
and then the rollers can be replaced with a similar sized drill bit cut to the correct length with a dremel cut off wheel, if you dont wanna do that a new arrester is plug and play

 

+1 replacing the door stays is actually an enjoyable job - small mirror helps to show you where the bolts go in which go through to the stay as you hold it inside the door. You should also replace the rubber gaskets which sit between stay and frame and are compressed by the bolts. I think theyvare separate part but very cheap.

After fitting new stays you wull have a doorbwhich stays put in 3 distinct positions, even on steep slope.

Some people claim just cleaning all old grease off is enough to restore full function, but Inlike new parts!

 

if its not holding the door open then the rollers have been flat spotted and filled with rusty grease

 

You're a funny guy

 

Ok probably more honest to say doing the other side is enjoyable, once over the learning curve of first side tackled!

 

Thanks for the inputs- just had the inner liner off a few weeks ago. I thought I had read of a mechanical mod of some kind but maybe I am confused.

Regards

Fred

 

Fred-

Nicole has a 'fix' that's pretty easy. On my car, I decided to just install new parts. Scheduled it with other work inside the door (window felts and guides), and in that scenario doing the stays/stops was a relative breeze. I have the tools and stuff to get the panel clips off safely, and have a stock of spares just in case, so getting in there for the fix isn't a big deal. I did the driver's door only since the pass side seemd fine. Of course the new driver's side stay is nice and new and tight now, so the pass side seems wimpier at this point. It still holds the door open OK. Point is that you might just want to do both of them at the same time so they mach. Parts were not expensive, even with all those spare panel clips included.

 

Oh joy, door panel off three times in one year.

I suppose this time I need to make a master list of everything that could be replaced with the panel off and just do all in.

 

Looks like my doors need to come off. Did you ever make that list of parts you should tackle when the door comes off?

 

Just did the door arrestor/brake replacement on left door.

Here's a list: New door brake, new window motor brushes, lube black tube that guides window up/down (replace white guides or use plastic cable ties to make old ones tighter to reduce/eliminate window rattle), check/replace bulb for red light at rear of door, lube window lift mechanism, replace plastic film barrier, replace any bad/broken plastic clips, consider door panel attachment reinforcement product from 928 Int. et al if not already installed. THEN, test that everything works well before re-installing panel.

When done, shouldn't need to take the panel of for 8-10 years!

 

Funny seeing this thread re-emerge- my window lift mechanism recently packed up again and need to pull it apart and free it all up again. At least it lasted over 10 years. Last time I cleaned up the arrester and it seemed to do the job. Maybe time for some new parts in there.

Just purchased a tool kit to help remove door panel clips etc whilst I was in the UK recently.