Big cams in a 5.0L
03-13-2011, 06:01 PM
#16
Drifting
03-13-2011, 08:02 PM
#17
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I think that could be beaten with the intake setup from Simard with ITB's and colins cam's, or shell out another 1200bucks and see what Mike can come up with.
Colin awesome job, can't wait to see a dyno!
Colin awesome job, can't wait to see a dyno!
03-14-2011, 01:45 AM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Greg,
You of all should know, it doesnt matter if even one person goes in to change the grind. That is enough in my books. Plus those who are going to be installing these cams are the same type of people who will be willing to go back in and pull the cam out for a change because they feel they can make more power by making that change.
Just because Anderson hasn't gone through the trouble of trying to extract the last bit of power out of his car. Or to keep tweeking it just shows that he is either a) not requiring more power to be competitive, b) is happy with what he has, c) doesnt want more power to risk breaking more items, or d) doesnt have the energy desire to go after more.
The question about does it matter. Well this depends, if you want the most power and the evenest power, then one obviously wants the same flow, meaning the same grind on every lobe.
I like Mikes products, he is an excellent craftsman. I started making these cams before Mike said that he would be making his for sale. I chose german chill cast for a number of reasons. Yes they are cheaper to make, they do have a thicker hardening to them making them less likely to break through. They are the same as factory and there for are proven to be 100% compatible with the motor, and all stock components. And as stated before, should anyone of the people who purchase them wish to change the grind on them, the chances of them having issues given that the grinder knows what he is doing is very slim.
There are other people who have welded cams too, but these do come with their own inherent problems. One of which is a worn gear sprocket for the cam chains. MK has had teeth on some cams he had break off. This may or may not start to happen more as the car age and get more miles. Plus after welding the cams have to be checked for straightness etc.
I have done everything I can to keep the price down on these so that owners of these cars can have a very reasonable option for increasing the breathing ability of the engines and we can start to see some proper power numbers being put down.
You of all should know, it doesnt matter if even one person goes in to change the grind. That is enough in my books. Plus those who are going to be installing these cams are the same type of people who will be willing to go back in and pull the cam out for a change because they feel they can make more power by making that change.
Just because Anderson hasn't gone through the trouble of trying to extract the last bit of power out of his car. Or to keep tweeking it just shows that he is either a) not requiring more power to be competitive, b) is happy with what he has, c) doesnt want more power to risk breaking more items, or d) doesnt have the energy desire to go after more.
The question about does it matter. Well this depends, if you want the most power and the evenest power, then one obviously wants the same flow, meaning the same grind on every lobe.
I like Mikes products, he is an excellent craftsman. I started making these cams before Mike said that he would be making his for sale. I chose german chill cast for a number of reasons. Yes they are cheaper to make, they do have a thicker hardening to them making them less likely to break through. They are the same as factory and there for are proven to be 100% compatible with the motor, and all stock components. And as stated before, should anyone of the people who purchase them wish to change the grind on them, the chances of them having issues given that the grinder knows what he is doing is very slim.
There are other people who have welded cams too, but these do come with their own inherent problems. One of which is a worn gear sprocket for the cam chains. MK has had teeth on some cams he had break off. This may or may not start to happen more as the car age and get more miles. Plus after welding the cams have to be checked for straightness etc.
I have done everything I can to keep the price down on these so that owners of these cars can have a very reasonable option for increasing the breathing ability of the engines and we can start to see some proper power numbers being put down.
03-14-2011, 01:51 AM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
More on topic of the cams,
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
03-14-2011, 02:34 AM
#20
Race Director
More on topic of the cams,
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
03-14-2011, 09:58 AM
#21
Supercharged
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More on topic of the cams,
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
03-14-2011, 10:41 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
More on topic of the cams,
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
I went and did some tuning tonight, I was able to get the bottom end dialed in a little better and it certainly feels much much better!
However the top end is dipping into the 11.3:1 AFR range. I cannot see where the MAF voltage is while driving to be able to pull fuel out and try again. I plan on hitting the dyno tomorrow hopefully and get the bottom and top dialed in a little more.
When you get back, open the files with Sharkplotter, let it adjust the fuel map against the target map, copy that back to ST, repeat to check/tweak, Done.
The details are in the Sharkplotter manual, send me a PM or email or give me a call and I'll walk you through it.
Cheers, Jim
03-14-2011, 01:54 PM
#25
Inventor
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03-14-2011, 01:55 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
MK,
I will be doing a custom intake for my car and seeing what it can do. I know that there are massive gains to be had there.
Andrew,
While tuning, I can feel the difference when changing from 11-12.5 or 13.1 there is definitely more power to be had from pulling the fueling down.
I will be doing a custom intake for my car and seeing what it can do. I know that there are massive gains to be had there.
Andrew,
While tuning, I can feel the difference when changing from 11-12.5 or 13.1 there is definitely more power to be had from pulling the fueling down.
03-14-2011, 04:23 PM
#27
Former Vendor
Greg,
You of all should know, it doesnt matter if even one person goes in to change the grind. That is enough in my books. Plus those who are going to be installing these cams are the same type of people who will be willing to go back in and pull the cam out for a change because they feel they can make more power by making that change.
Just because Anderson hasn't gone through the trouble of trying to extract the last bit of power out of his car. Or to keep tweeking it just shows that he is either a) not requiring more power to be competitive, b) is happy with what he has, c) doesnt want more power to risk breaking more items, or d) doesnt have the energy desire to go after more.
The question about does it matter. Well this depends, if you want the most power and the evenest power, then one obviously wants the same flow, meaning the same grind on every lobe.
I like Mikes products, he is an excellent craftsman. I started making these cams before Mike said that he would be making his for sale. I chose german chill cast for a number of reasons. Yes they are cheaper to make, they do have a thicker hardening to them making them less likely to break through. They are the same as factory and there for are proven to be 100% compatible with the motor, and all stock components. And as stated before, should anyone of the people who purchase them wish to change the grind on them, the chances of them having issues given that the grinder knows what he is doing is very slim.
There are other people who have welded cams too, but these do come with their own inherent problems. One of which is a worn gear sprocket for the cam chains. MK has had teeth on some cams he had break off. This may or may not start to happen more as the car age and get more miles. Plus after welding the cams have to be checked for straightness etc.
I have done everything I can to keep the price down on these so that owners of these cars can have a very reasonable option for increasing the breathing ability of the engines and we can start to see some proper power numbers being put down.
You of all should know, it doesnt matter if even one person goes in to change the grind. That is enough in my books. Plus those who are going to be installing these cams are the same type of people who will be willing to go back in and pull the cam out for a change because they feel they can make more power by making that change.
Just because Anderson hasn't gone through the trouble of trying to extract the last bit of power out of his car. Or to keep tweeking it just shows that he is either a) not requiring more power to be competitive, b) is happy with what he has, c) doesnt want more power to risk breaking more items, or d) doesnt have the energy desire to go after more.
The question about does it matter. Well this depends, if you want the most power and the evenest power, then one obviously wants the same flow, meaning the same grind on every lobe.
I like Mikes products, he is an excellent craftsman. I started making these cams before Mike said that he would be making his for sale. I chose german chill cast for a number of reasons. Yes they are cheaper to make, they do have a thicker hardening to them making them less likely to break through. They are the same as factory and there for are proven to be 100% compatible with the motor, and all stock components. And as stated before, should anyone of the people who purchase them wish to change the grind on them, the chances of them having issues given that the grinder knows what he is doing is very slim.
There are other people who have welded cams too, but these do come with their own inherent problems. One of which is a worn gear sprocket for the cam chains. MK has had teeth on some cams he had break off. This may or may not start to happen more as the car age and get more miles. Plus after welding the cams have to be checked for straightness etc.
I have done everything I can to keep the price down on these so that owners of these cars can have a very reasonable option for increasing the breathing ability of the engines and we can start to see some proper power numbers being put down.
I wasn't being critical, far from it. I can see use for both your cams and Mike's cams.
I just didn't see the validity of your statement. There has to be a more significant difference than the ability to regrind the cams....
For the very few people that want to "change" their cam grind, once it has been ground, Mike's cams can easily be re-nitrated....it is a daily thing, for crankshafts.
I think that the price difference is going to be the most significant difference, for most of the 928 owners that choose to use your cams.
