Dinsdale Piranha

I had a persistant oil leak ever since I boosted the engine. All the front and rear seals were dry, valve covers also. I even went to the extent of modifying the breather system with vents from each valve cover to an oil air separator. Still had the leak. I decided to tear down the top and front of the motor to install my latest collectionof parts, IE: water pump, porkensioner, oil vent baffle, water bridge gaskets. Water pump and porkensioner went flawlessly, then the fun started. All 4 water bridge bolts broke. Luckily, the cable guy next door showed up with a series of drills about 1 foot long, a few beers later all the bolts were out. Here is what I found next, what do you think, Xanax, Jack Daniels or a 45? ( notice the broken off drill bit in the picture) Here is a few pics to explain this nightmare. All is well now as I chose the Xanax initially, calmed down made the repairs and celebrated with JACK & COKE. ( the 45 would have just caused trouble, you can't shoot anyone or anything in this town without getting arrested these days!) The last pic is of the HAPPY WIFE!

Andre Hedrick

Go upstairs and make her happier

riviera455

smart fix. thanks for sharing.

i have the same leak , but i cant get the bolts lose at the waterbridge, i hope they dont brake off.
i spray liquid wrench for now and drive with the leak untill i can get them loose.

brianrheffron

Sorry for being dense but I don't get what the "fix" is.
Could we get a fuller explanantion please.

jej3

I wasn't sure what the fix was either. I think I need to be on the "Charlie Sheen" to see it

Dinsdale Piranha

Cant go upstairs. Ranch home! The repair is the two 4mm x .8 beveled screws on either side of the the broken casting that now hold the oil baffle in place. The screws were installed with a drop of blue loktite. This also leaves me with the option of welding on to the broken drill to remove it and installing a long stud later. I think that would be optimal. the screws are close enough to first hole that this should hold . The sealer that I used squeezed out nicely around the perimiter. It should work. (He says with fingers crossed) If not the leak will be much less.

Dinsdale Piranha

I think we only have part of the Charlie Sheen recipe! I dont want the rest , my face might melt off.

Ducman82

and at least its not diet coke....

Dinsdale Piranha

forgot to mention that the old screw is installed upside down . the head was ground some what D shaped. this will help with tightening or loosening . In short the baffle is screwed to the block . The housing is screwed to the baffle.

928mac

Good fix there Jeff. Cool idea and hey, It works

Dinsdale Piranha

Does anyone know if this could be welded. I know the upper half of the block is alusil.What info should i tell the welder?

928mac

Ummmmm since you have made a fix I don't think I would have it welded, But.

It should be ok to weld to the block in that area.
If you find a good certified welder that dose airplane and boat props he will do a good job.

Tell him the block is 78% aluminum and 17% silicon

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alusil

http://www.kspg-ag.de/pdfdoc/kspg_pr...audi_zkg_e.pdf

This should explain it all

riviera455

dont weld it, it works fine this way.it wont leak.
the only thing i would have weldet was the large old bolt to the bafle to make tightning easy. i would have made both in Stainless Steel so they can be weldet.

wat i dont understand is wat you tell about the waterbridge bolts that broke off.
wat with the large drills?
how did you get them out finaly?

i tryed to get the bolts loose , but i dont want to brake them so i stopped trying.

Dinsdale Piranha

If it does not leak I wont weld it. As for the water bridge bolts . I soaked them in a quality penetrating oil ( aero kroil or PB blaster ) several times a day for two days. then used a new sharp allen driver to attempt removal. One bolt came out easily.The other three broke the heads off.On the side that the bolt came out I drilled down thru the existing bolt shaft with increasingly larger drills until the left over shaft was gone. long drill bits were necessary due to the size of my drill head and the angle of the bolt.Its important to get the first drill hole centered and straight!!! After I had two bolts out on one side I was able to get the water bridge off. With heat and vice grips I was able to remove the two bolts on the other side. Be patient this can take many tries to get the bolts to start moving. Spray ,Heat,WIGGLE repeat.Dont use to much force. The remaining bolt was now flush with the head . Once again I drilled down thru the center with increasingly larger drill bits until there was just thread left. THen removed them with a pick and needle nose pliers.Tapping gentley on the bolt shaft will set up vibration to help loosen the corrosion also. Patience, Penetrating oil, heat,Tapping on the bolt.Make sure the vice grips are very tight before you start to wiggle them. Good luck,they will come out!!!!

riviera455

wow, that scares me, i think i better remove the intake on my ob.