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New Product: *** The SharkWoofer ***

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Old 01-20-2013, 10:47 AM
  #121  
DaveT
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Absolutely. Just got back from an early morning ride, mostly to listen to the tunes. The streaming is really nice. After I paired the phone I was scrolling through the source options and stopped on Streaming, thinking I would have to do another setup. It immediately started playing the music from my phone. Still have a lot to do as far as learning all the capabilities of the unit but for $150 so far it is great.
Old 01-21-2013, 01:59 AM
  #122  
Alan
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Originally Posted by Courtshark
In my car stereo installation experience, I've always been told that the shorter the ground wire, the better. What you suggest would lead to some really long ground wires.
No - you do indeed want a single ground point for everything. If that dictates long wires in some cases so be it - make them as big as you can and ground the highest power consumer (amp?) to the best local short ground and wire the rest to that. My amps are in the back - makes for nice short power & grounds - so my head unit & pre-amp power & grounds are fed forward from that location, my switched audio supply is fed from the same source & is just locally switched with a relay controlled by the R terminal on the ignition switch.

The whole point is to avoid the noise coupled due to voltage differences between supplies (power & esp. ground) caused by high currents due to other equipment switching... referencing both ground & power to the same point eliminates this differentially coupled noise. Its not the easiest to do but it is the best method, you still need some noise supression on the power rail because it can still have power noise - e.g. alternator ripple.

Most audio installers (except real hgih end pros) would never consider this - its just too much work for them - In many instances the benefit may not be needed. However it's still the best way - esp. if you have remaining noise issues...

Alan
Old 01-21-2013, 11:40 AM
  #123  
risaac928
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Question...I was thinking of getting the "SharkWoofer" I have a factory radio, speakers etc. Would this still be an "easy" install or do I need to purchased a new head unit along with speakers etc.
Old 01-21-2013, 11:56 AM
  #124  
hans14914
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Rissac928,

It is possible to install a Sharkwoofer (or any subwoofer) with the factory headunit and speakers. However, at least one amplifier would need to be purchased (Kenwood XR-1S for the sharkwoofer - thats the mono model).

The only challenge would be getting a line-level output from the factory head-unit. I would contact SW Stereo and see if they would make you an adapter to pull the line-level from the din connector. Unless you want an absolutely stock looking setup, you are likely better off to install a newer headunit. You may want to reference this thread for opinions on good headunit options:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-928-a.html

Hans
Old 04-06-2013, 01:55 PM
  #125  
sweet928
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Does the Shark woofer fit in an OB? (79)?
Old 04-06-2013, 07:21 PM
  #126  
SeanR
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Originally Posted by sweet928
Does the Shark woofer fit in an OB? (79)?
Yes, and I consider it one of the best upgrades for our cars. Made to fit so you don't have to go fab something up.
Old 07-25-2013, 04:06 AM
  #127  
Cyberpunky
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Originally Posted by Alan
No - you do indeed want a single ground point for everything. If that dictates long wires in some cases so be it - make them as big as you can and ground the highest power consumer (amp?) to the best local short ground and wire the rest to that. My amps are in the back - makes for nice short power & grounds - so my head unit & pre-amp power & grounds are fed forward from that location, my switched audio supply is fed from the same source & is just locally switched with a relay controlled by the R terminal on the ignition switch.

The whole point is to avoid the noise coupled due to voltage differences between supplies (power & esp. ground) caused by high currents due to other equipment switching... referencing both ground & power to the same point eliminates this differentially coupled noise. Its not the easiest to do but it is the best method, you still need some noise supression on the power rail because it can still have power noise - e.g. alternator ripple.

Most audio installers (except real hgih end pros) would never consider this - its just too much work for them - In many instances the benefit may not be needed. However it's still the best way - esp. if you have remaining noise issues...

Alan
I dont even know where to begin with the above but 99.9% of noise issues are ground related or from poorly made equipment, as we have a common ground situation(the car it self). Power is by design isolated and from a single point. Running HU grounds to rear is a great way to pick up a ground loop and best avoided IMO. Noise suppression is never needed on any install period or it has been done wrong ie running head unit ground from trunk or equipment is junk and noise is inherent due to its(the equipment's) poor electrical isolation.

Assuming gear isn't rubbish then all that is needed for HU is a solid ground to avoid a voltage difference of signal, at amps. For practical reasons it makes sense to use a common point for all amps/processors in the back even if it means some are longer, as most noise sources are in front of car(911s excepted) then the longer cable is unlikely to cause a ground loop or pick up noise and is referenced to same point as other amps/procs.

Most High end installers will not use a factory ground wire for the HU and will seek out a solid ground and that is enough to avoid induced noise. The whole point is to avoid voltage differences of the signals reference. In some instances a dedicated power wire is used too but that is only for higher current draw situations and the quirks of some brands(like pioneer) that can have noise if power lead isn't large enough(voltage related).

Anyway you do want solid grounds. We bare metal ground points, use bolts or star washers with screws, etc to get that, but we do not run long grounds above another ground(chassis) for a very good reason and it is not being lazy as suggested above, it's actually because we know what we are doing and don't reach for band aids like noise suppressors and also that we do not fit rubbish equipment. That would be like modding a motor for more power and then fitting retreads. A good install with good equipment will not have noise and definitely won't have all grounds running from a single point
peace
Cyberpunky

BTW great product and nothing would even come close to same results without a much larger budget. Well done
Old 12-15-2014, 10:46 AM
  #128  
hans14914
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I had several requests for these over the past month of so. I finally received four more fiberglass enclosures. Unfortunately, these may be the last batch, as the mold was pretty much destroyed with these last pulls.

I still have some of the original design for the Kenwood XR-5s in stock, and will make a couple for the new replacement XR900-5.

Thanks,
Hans
Old 12-15-2014, 10:51 AM
  #129  
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As discussed previously, dibs on one for the XR900-5 :-)
Old 09-09-2015, 01:33 AM
  #130  
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Aloha Hans!

Looking for a replacement for my Bazooka which was stolen a few weeks ago, I never thought a SharkWoofer would be an option. Then I just noticed your signature in another thread. And then I just read Post #128...

So... the SharkWoofer is NLA, yes?


-tom

PS: I have not read this thread in its' entirety, but if something is indeed available, I would definitely like one.



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