Have you checked the Temp II readings?

The 16V faces forward, but the 32V is rotated so you can reach the pot from the side. There's a nub cast in the housing to align it.

 

Mark, why don't you post a picture of how it is mounted to clear up any confusion. I don't see how adding the airbox is going to cure a cold start issue but I'll defer to the experts.

 

No much different but then MAF volts vs airflow is critical. A few %.....

 

Porken

You did it again one side of the temp II switch is open!

 

John Speaks known good Maf installed, S/C not connected:

Ok; replaced the Temp II sensor, checked for vacuum leaks with my smoker, replaced all the connectors with new ends "Temp II, Coolant and Air Temp, and cleaned grounds on back of motor.

All connections go back with low resistance to the Computers.

Started car will not idle until warm, "same issue":
Upon testing the coolant temp pins to computer pin grounds on the LH and Ezk no resistance is present. The motor grounds are there on the computers pins.

I am at a loss at this point, any other help would be appreciated.

 

Just disconnected the Ox Sensor same thing!

 

Fire-med:
I think when I cleaned your computers for you I gave you the wrong Ezk I opened it up and found your chip in it I labeled it mikes chip you must have mine!

 

I ment Sail-Med sorry!

 

Make sure that you get zero ohms when measuring from the body of temp 2 sensor to the engine block. AO had an open circuit on his car due to bad ground.

 

Found something interesting:

At Lh connector idle switch shows 6.8 Ohms, when on idle 1.270 K ohms
when off idle.

At Wot the switch is not grounding until FULL throttle and is intermittent goes to 9.5 Ohms it shows 1.250 Ohms shows all the time even at idle.

I think my Wot is partially shorted, could be oil; this may explain why I am running rich when warm it stays around 12.1, way to rich!

Any feed back?

 

To get the clearest readings you should disconnect both LH and EZ-F 25way connectors when making these measurements. Then you will get true infinitity and zero ohms readings possible.

Make the measurements again.... then let us know the result.

 

Both connectors where off when I did the readings.

Both Lh and Ezk the readings were identical.

So what would the computers do under this condition?

This is a pain to take out on an 86 but I always like finding something wrong makes the journey relevant.

P.S. My radiator is now leaking things happen in 3's I guess!

 

Certainly sounds like a probem with the WOT switch...... this would account for rich running.

Did you sort out the issue with Temp 2 ?

 

Yes I did it was the new connector I added it was not making contact I corrected that issue yesterday.

 

Mine just started leaking from the passenger end tank, thought I would try to just replace the tanks but a couple of tabs broke so I'll be putting in the C&R and be done with it.