Bill Ball

The sway bar droplink should disconnected from the lower control arm already is you removed lower shock mount bolt that also passes through the droplink.

Regardless I can't even get the tops of the stock shocks to clear shock tower walls. So, it appears my control arms don't sag far enough too. They really should not sag very much anyway as the bushings on the upper arm are fixed and the front bushing on the lower control arm is also fixed (bonded) unless it is broken.

antlee928

Hey guys. Great write up and info. I have to pull my front shocks so I can unseize the sleeve/collar adjusters. Sounds like it will be a lot easier than I anticipated.

Cheers

KenRudd

Let us know.

GlenL

The I-tipped-it-and-it-came approach seems to work only on a subset of vehicles. First off, S4 and later only. I also think it's cars with a high ride height so the lower perch is further up on the shock body.

I recently pulled front shocks on a near-OB with non-adjustable fronts. Almost ended up removing the upper and lower arms. Very tough to work through the triangle. Are those springs a bit wider? Sure seemed like it. A 1/4" would make a lot of difference.

antlee928

Glen, I think the pre-S4s had a narrower gap in the upper A-arm which explains why it is difficult/impossible to remove the strut thri=ough this gap. Hence requiring the removal of the upper a-arm as well. Maybe someone else more informed can advise further.
Cheers

brutus

There really is not all that much tension on the springs when fully extended not really a big concern. Just use two compressors and a bit of care and it is no problem. If you mount the shorter Eibachs there is no tension !

FREAKINHEAT

I just installed the rear last weekend and I am installing the fronts now. There is definitely compression needed on the fronts and the rears when installing Eibachs!!! I used the regular spring compressor and a drill/bit to put tension. Without it, you would never get the shocks together. At least I saw no way possible to do that. And do take caution when removing the old springs. (The top of the assembly shot off as I should have put the compressor further apart on the springs.)

I could not get the control arms to move down any further without uninstalling the lower control arm. Once removed I was able to move the arms down, and shock/spring out with some twisting. Used a breaker bar with extension to get the 19mm bolts off the "u" holders that keep the lower control arm connected to the frame of the car. Now I discovered that the po left some parts off of one side. Not very nice!

dr bob

Looks like we will get to do shocks and springs on Kelanel's car in a couple weeks, in concert with a MM/OPG project. Maybe we'll have enough folks in place to get some decent pics or maybe even video with the car on the lift. The lower control arms will be disconnected at the bushing ends, so we should be able to get the fronts out without much addtional drama. Original non-adjustable Boge coming out, Koni/Eibach going back in.

dcrasta

Yes please do a writeup. I am about to tackle the shocks on my 86.5 .I have some boges to put on while I send the Bilsteins out to be rebuilt.

FREAKINHEAT

Thanks to the board and previous write ups, it really isn't that hard. I've got the left side assembled back on, waiting on the right side for parts needed (thanks Roger). The hardest part is getting the lower control arm back up to position to bolt back against the frame. If you got a small jack, may come handy to hold control arm up while you start the bolts. The second hardest part is lining up the shock against the control arm guides. Get some pry bars people.

Now that it is together, the other side should be a lil bit easier/quicker.

uncre8tv

I am stuck bad at this point. Any tips on how to get this to line up? I can get as far as putting a large #3 Phillips screw driver through the mount and shock, but can't torque it over quite enough to get the bolt through.

Really hoping there's a magic way to do this...

uncre8tv

the magic is to run the pin through the shock before you re-mount the rest of the lower arm. it's easier to lever the arm than the shock due to access/grip/size. disconnect the sway bar link also so you can run that through with the rest of it while it's all loose.

nc_growler

Keith, glad you figured that one out. Was this on the rear shocks?

porschetoycar

I just did all 4 of mine on my '84 and did the lower arm. Couldn't get one of the top nuts to budge. I replaced the shock stops with poly because the rubber ones crumbled in my hand. When I got to the rears I noticed the cv boots were all torn. WHAT A MESSY JOB but done. Oh and hind site 20/20 I had just rebuilt steering rack and motor mounts ; then did front shocks. All the upper A arm nuts were all exposed at that point. Dumb me, oh well. I to bought a set of sping compressors for this job. Was very caustious but fairly easy.

Godzilla83s

Did the same steps apply as described here apply to your 84? Need to tackle this on my 83 in the next few weeks.