Mike LaBranche

I use the same semi-beefy manual version pictured, and it works fine. But remember, even the beefiest manual spring compressors wear out after repeated use. And 'be careful' should be in everything you do in a garage, especially when dealing with forces like a compressed spring. Goes without sayin'.

nc_growler

Thanks Terry. I'll definitely give them a look while I'm in there. I've got plenty of room to work right now.

nc_growler

Put the rebuilt fronts in earlier this week. These are Sachs. Had to also replace both dust covers and the bump stops.

Terry, the uppers looked ok on mine.

nc_growler

Quick question on the spacers on the rears... Should the gap between the washer and the shock be this wide? I'm not missing parts, right? This is pre-teardown...

The gap is the same on the passenger side too, but just being careful in case someone else was in here before me and made a mistake...

Mrmerlin

that is a normal looking clearance in other words all your parts are there

spray some PB blaster up under the hub carrier this will wet the lower link pin and allow for easier removal....
YES there is a hole under the carrier to see the pin,

use thick grease to hold the beveled washer in place,

remove the front nut and slide the pin out the back,

also remove the lower sway bar link and push it out of the way

Roll the pin on a flat surface make sure its not bent put antiseize on the pin prior to installation,
note how the lower attach of the shock can be put both ways only one will offer the correct postion

nc_growler

Thanks Mr. Merlin.

Yep, I hit the entire length of the pins with PB Blaster 2 days ago, and hit the front nuts behind the rotor again last night.

I think someone has been here before me as I was able to quickly (15 minutes per side) remove the pins and pull the shocks.

See what I mean? The pins look like they've been replaced?

Bill Ball

Here's a pic of my rear assembly....yes, there should be some spaces.

nc_growler

Thanks Bill! Definitely setup correctly on my car then. Appreciate the confirmation.

nc_growler

All 4 shocks replaced. Took it out and settled it.

Front ~35mm low
Rear ~15mm low

Commenced with ride height adjustments (this is tiring)...

And rear left adjuster is binding up and started turning entire assembly after 4 turns (need 4 more)...

I think I am going to have to pull the shock back out, disassemble and work the threads... I had turned it a bit to make sure it was free to move, but not far enough and I didn't coat it with anti-seize while it was out

And everything was going so smoothly...

Bertrand Daoust

Thank you for this thread.
It will sure help when I'll remove mine to try to unseize the ajusters.
I tried to move all 4 ajusters and nothing wants to move!
The car is at 150mm in front and I want to get it closer to spec.

nc_growler

Yeah, my 140mm was causing a lot of problems... I'm pretty sure the PO lost the front spoiler and the belly pans due to this.

What's the miles on your current shocks?

Bertrand Daoust

They have about 90k km, about 55k miles.
I bottomed the car 2-3 times at 150mm! Ouch!
Also, I often read that the car will perform better at or near spec.

FREAKINHEAT

"8. From below, using a 17mm socket on short extension, remove the 4 bolts (2 front, 2 rear) holding the large U-shaped brackets at the back of the lower arm."

Does anyone have a photo of these bolts?
I am currently installing new shocks and did rears okay. Got kinda quick at it actually. The fronts are causing me some issues though. Got everything apart except this line. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dr bob

After pulling the main wheelhouse liners on my S4, I didn't need to remove either the upper or lower a-arms or brackets. The top of the shock/spring assy was rotated towards the rear, and lifted out of the upper arm rather easily. No sweat, no drama at all. Maybe leave the control arms in place on yours?

FREAKINHEAT

Dr. Bob, I've seen a post of yours where you could leave the control arms in place. I attempted your way actually. I removed the liner and had the shock loose, but the control arms would not allow itself to lower enough to allow the shock to maneuver itself out. I loosened the sway bar bolts, but should I completely disconnect it? Will this allow the control arms to fall further down? Thanks!