Aspkiller

I'm getting ready to cut a couple of access holes in my '91 chassis and thought I read that someone on RL (probably a racer) had done the same thing. Before I get the sawzall out, I was hoping to gain some insight as to the best size / place to place them. Due to other issues, it looks like I'll have to access the rear shifter connections from the top only and would prefer to access the front ball connection from the passinger side.

Is there anyone out there who's been there / done that.

Thanks

Mrmerlin

you can install a new type shifter that deletes the front shift rod Roger@928srus.com sells them, for the rear shifter coupler he also has bronze bushings
I would measure carefully on cutting holes, though i dont have any suggestions on where to cut

Mike Simard

I cut out an access plate for the shift linkage but it's really unnecessary and I wouldn't bother doing it again.
If you want I could post up some pics but you may find that you can access the thing even with an exhaust in place.
If you use a proper Porsche set screw in the linkage you shouldn't ever have to fiddle with it again.
BTW, I wouldn't use metal bushings or mount anything to the body. If you have the TT out you can tap a hole where the front ball is and use common heim joints that will screw into the shifter tube.

rgs944

I just did my rear coupler and used rubber bushings, it sounds like the bronze were causing too much vibration.

SeanR

He's driving a race car, I don't think a bit of rattling sound from bushings is going to be heard.

mark kibort

does cutting the hole in the rear tunnel section make it any easier to remove the transmission should you want to ? (access to the linkage and coupler)

the location for the front access point, is easy, just wident the stock hole that is already there.
rear, ive only seen a complete long rectangle removed out of the top tunnel area. is that a structure of the body that has any function there??

rgs944

Ok, got it. I guess the bronze bushings should hold up a lot better for hard track use.

Aspkiller

Hi Mike and everyone-

Don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but after we moved the motor slightly to the pass side, the next time out on the track we started having shift problems. Running a hydraulic McCloud double disc and feel certain it's not the culprit (bled, adjusted, etc). Reverse and first are tough when cold and near impossible when hot. Also, faster shifts are simply not possible now. Currently using fresh Wildwood brake fluid and Red Line 90/140NS. Thinking about trying another fluid-perhaps RPurple, as well used boxes can become finicky in their old age.

At this point, I want to replace the likely suspects in the shift linkage. I'm solid mounted at the motor and tranny, so I'm curious about your recommendation to not use metal bushings. Also, with the tube in place, are you doing the work by braille?

Is anybody using Roger's modified shifter in a race situation?

Rob Edwards

Did you move the transmission to the passenger side as well, or is your TT and tranny canted slightly at an angle in the trans tunnel?

R&R'in the rear shift coupler is not too bad from underneath, there's enough room to do it as long as your exhaust isn't more intrusive that the stock system is. I have a small 2 eared Facom gear puller that is perfectly suited for pushing the rear coupler pin out, will post a pic of it later. The biggest PITA on the rear coupler is the rubber boot over the whole thing. On a race car I'd slit its throat and throw it as far away from the car as I could.

Mike Simard

I'd suspect the McLeod clutch dragging before anything else. I've used them before and have had problems with poor quality control like disc splines that fit in one disc but tight in the 2nd.
If you can keep the clutch depressed for a few seconds and still have trouble getting into gear, that's drag and I bet yours is like that.

For access, it seems to be easier to work by braille than take the time to loosen all the screws holding my access plate. that's what I found in my case anyway. You're already going to be working underneath the car anyway.

I don't like metal linkage bushings because they have play, vibrate and wear out from dirt. Metal suspension and linkage bushings are inferior in general and I avoid them.
My own car has delrin shift coupler bushings with slightly oval holes to allow fore and aft movement. That's good because it keeps from transmitting vibration from the shifter to the trans internals. There's a reason Porsche made them like that in the first place.

Lizard928

I cut an access panel in mine just to make it easier to get at the top 4 transmission bolts.

Rob Edwards

Small puller that can straddle the rear coupler, and whose center screw has a smaller OD than the coupler pin, to push it out.

Aspkiller

Went ahead and cut an access panel to get at the rear coupler. Just posted the results. On my way down to Harbor Freight to get a small like the one Rob Edwards suggested. Thanks everyone to helping out.

Cortina

Was the rear coupler on UK spec cars different to USA ???.
I had my rear coupler out today, in about a minute ! ... why on earth would anyone want to push the pin out in situ ??

Put car in gear (to move coupler as far to rear as possible).
Loosen clamping bolt , and move tube forward with gear leaver ... leaves the coupler behind , and gives you enough room to disconnect the two items.
Last, remove (well very much loosen) locating allen screw , and remove coupler.
Loads of room to access from underneath.

Compared to removing / reassembling the gear lever and the front tube from underneath (without disturbing exhaust or torque tube) ... this one (rear coupler) is real easy !!!

Rob Edwards

No, it's the same. I agree, there is plenty of room and it is easy to remove the rear coupler **as long as you don't strip the setscrew trying to remove it**. The argument for leaving the shift rods connected to the rear coupler shaft is that it preserves the shifter alignment. Which is not a big deal if you have 2 people to re-align the shifter, but kind of a PITA if you're working alone.