123quattro

In theory yes, but in actuality no. Turbos require a very small amount of oil to lubricate them.

svp928

Greg, I would put a Dailey air-oil separator on it and you can use a smaller tank. I know Falconer only uses a fairly small tank for the 600 cu/in V-12..the Cosworth version of this allowed them to put about an 8-qt tank inside the bellhousing of the DFV V-8. In fact Cosworth had the same oil-in-the-heads problem early on, and wound up making the scavenge section of the pump bigger to allow better recovery from the heads...

GregBBRD

Thought about that, actually looked at it for quite some time, but the Dailey air-oil separator is over 3" long. Whe you add that to the main pump section, pretty much means the pump has to be mounted where the A/C compressor mounts, to clear the exhaust. Most guys with street cars are not going to want to give up the A/C.

Lizard928

Pussies!

So then mount it where the alt goes, and move the alt to the airpump....

GlenL

Pussies^2. Just gotta make the window switches work reliably.

Not sure it's big enough but inside the fender and behind the wheel had good space. It'd need an odd-shaped tank but its got volume and height.

Then again, you've gotta give up cruise control or windshield washer to get it. Or add a small washer fluid tank somewhere else.

SeanR

Could creating vacuum in the crank case, ease the draining of the oil out of the heads?

GregBBRD

Yes. No doubt about that. A vacuum in the crankcase would actually "draw" the oil from the heads.

I looked at that, too. Really could not come up with a place to "pull" vacuum out of the crankcase that wouldn't be a "firestorm" of oil. The vacuum pump might be able to deal with the oil, but then there is an issue of where you pump that air/oil mixture and separate it, returning the oil to the crankcase.

Vacuum creates its own set of issues...since it is "sucking' oil out of the bearings. Oil pressure goes down (which might not be a bad thing.)

I did buy a really nice billet vacuum pump, but decided to not go that route. However, we might try it, on the dyno, if we are unhappy in any way with what I've got planned.

It's a complex issue.

S4ordie

Glen and Colin..... Tell you what, I'll give up my AC here in Phoenix during the summer when you give up your heater and defroster in the winter. Oh, I forgot you don't drive your cars in the winter. Little kitties indeed

Greg - a couple of people have suggested filling the the empty space of the valve cover area around the moving components to reduce the available area for the oil to collect. To a simple fool like myself this seems like a pretty good idea, no?

Rob Edwards

I think Greg has other plans for those spaces.

GregBBRD

I've been trying to think what those pieces would look like. The two end areas have pretty limited access, from the top. The middle area has that chain running through it. The two other areas are where the breather pieces, for the valve covers need to go. There also has to be a fairly free path for the oil to return from the intake cam. Certainly, it is possible to do anything, but those pieces would need to be pretty funky looking to alter the total volume very much.

Old silicone breast implant bags might work...and I'm sure that they would love to find a market for those. Rinse them off and stick them in your heads...pretty simple

IcemanG17

It would be possible to mount a gear to the TT somewhere and have that drive an accessory? Or a belt setup.....the back seat comes to mind, but that would only work in a racecar which has enough room under the hood anyway....

if you lived in a non-smog area (some are lucky) then you could dump the airpump to mount a drysump or vac pump? Its pretty tight, but could be done?

slate blue

Not a bad idea I had canvassed this idea due to my much smaller alternator however I don't know if its charge rate will be enough for a street car that gets stuck in traffic. Maybe another alternator that is smaller but has a convential charge rate?

The other idea I had was to put the A/C comp where the air pump was and use a rotory style smaller compressor. A big weight saver and it may be enough since I have alreadly converted to a parallel flow condensor and its associated higher efficiency. With good window tint it may be enough but one of those things that needs testing.

If you have an ATI damper I think doing mods like this get easier as you can buy off the shelf parts like serpentine pulleys and dry sump mandrels that bolt onto the damper. You do need access to a machine shop as the brackets will need some pretty detailed work.

As to the Porsche oiling mod that appeared on Ebay it actually makes some sense as it is designed similar to how some of the Dailey sumps are made. It is trying to keep the oil that has been thrown off from being agitated by the crank. The difference with the Dailey sump is that they then remove the oil via suction whereas ours needs gravity.

I don't know if it was posted here but what Joe Gibbs Racing said in the RET monitor was the oil needs to be removed from the engine's crankcase asap. They have been past users of Auto Verdi and currently use Dailey Engineering using 6 stage pumps. The other article in the RET monitor was that the oil air separators are upto 90% effiicient, that is a great head start for getting the air out of the oil.

How much oil the engine actually needs up top is I suppose a matter for experimentation, may be expensive too, I am going to look at needle bearings for the cams as they use the same 60 mm diameter that many Nascar cams use and what the teams have said they is that you can further slow down the oil supply, again the less oil you put in the less you need to remove.

The other thing and this is just an interesting tid bit but I saw the Porsche Lemans series engine, it is the modified Cayenne engine. How they dealt with the dry sumping as they have about the same sump height as us, they CNCed the lower bedplate similar to the way an F1 engine is built and built the dry sump design into that piece so that it wasn't an add on design. The engine may have gained some strength too.

928er

when it comes to filling some of the space in the heads, the biggest concern that I have is that the cams slinging oil all over the place also oil the springs, and then you also have oil from the lifters going everywhere as well....

sendarius

That's not MY biggest concern.

Didn't this issue of "oil packing" in the cam covers come to light because the engine "burped" oil out of the breathers at a furious rate?

So if the oil moves from the inside to the outside (bad) once the cam covers fill with oil, filling the voids and making the volume smaller means that the oil ejection would occur SOONER. Sure, the sump would still have the oil pickup covered when oil starts being ejected, but not for long.

Lizard928

HAHA,

I drive my cars year round, no matter the road conditions.

I have driven one of my cars from the coast, to prince george in the middle of the winter where it was -50C. And at that temperature with a 75 deg thermostat there practically was no heat!