How to repair a broken comb flap actuator arm?
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
How to repair a broken comb flap actuator arm?
No, not the usual diaphragm problem.. that would be easy to fix.
I went into my newest acquisition to fix the leaking comb flap actuator (orange line).
After removing the console, I found the footwell flap arm wasn't connected to the diaphragm - luckily that was easily reattached (small pin through the diaphragm).
However, when I popped the cover off the comb flap diaphragm, I found the arm inside the box wasn't attached to the flap! This picture is taken through the passenger-side air outlet on the heater box in the dash (note - RHD car is a mirror image of LHD ones, so it may confuse you).
Maybe this explains why someone had wired up the vacuum manifold solenoid with a manual electrical switch. I'd rather have a working comb flap - it makes a big difference to how well the HVAC works.
So my questions:
Does anyone have photos of the inside of the heater box?
Has anyone successfully opened up their heater box while the dash is still installed?
How long does it take to remove the dash? (given the console is out, this may be faster than trying to repair it in place)
Any other suggestions?
I went into my newest acquisition to fix the leaking comb flap actuator (orange line).
After removing the console, I found the footwell flap arm wasn't connected to the diaphragm - luckily that was easily reattached (small pin through the diaphragm).
However, when I popped the cover off the comb flap diaphragm, I found the arm inside the box wasn't attached to the flap! This picture is taken through the passenger-side air outlet on the heater box in the dash (note - RHD car is a mirror image of LHD ones, so it may confuse you).
Maybe this explains why someone had wired up the vacuum manifold solenoid with a manual electrical switch. I'd rather have a working comb flap - it makes a big difference to how well the HVAC works.
So my questions:
Does anyone have photos of the inside of the heater box?
Has anyone successfully opened up their heater box while the dash is still installed?
How long does it take to remove the dash? (given the console is out, this may be faster than trying to repair it in place)
Any other suggestions?
#2
Team Owner
thats gonna hurt..I think your in for a total dash HVAC system RnR
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Yep, I was just reading dash removal:
http://www.landsharkoz.com/forms/928_dash_removal.pdf
Doesn't look too bad - I already have the console and glove box removed.. and need to pull the instrument cluster anyway (bulb replacement and switch to a metric speedo).
The only real question in my mind is whether I can possibly take the heater box apart in place for this repair and save taking out the dash and pod switches etc.
I'll have a go at undoing the clips and take some photos - if its possible, then perhaps a write-up will help others.
As far as repair goes - I'll probably drill and pin the piece back onto the flap along with some JB weld. I've started making local inquiries for a spare RHD heater box just in case
http://www.landsharkoz.com/forms/928_dash_removal.pdf
Doesn't look too bad - I already have the console and glove box removed.. and need to pull the instrument cluster anyway (bulb replacement and switch to a metric speedo).
The only real question in my mind is whether I can possibly take the heater box apart in place for this repair and save taking out the dash and pod switches etc.
I'll have a go at undoing the clips and take some photos - if its possible, then perhaps a write-up will help others.
As far as repair goes - I'll probably drill and pin the piece back onto the flap along with some JB weld. I've started making local inquiries for a spare RHD heater box just in case
#4
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ok, tore into it this evening after the girls' bedtime..
Got the dash out - followed the write-up I linked earlier, which is handily for a RHD car too
Then popped off all the clips around the edge of the heater box, holding the two halves together.
To get the front off the box, you have to undo the inner pair of screws on the windshield vents, and lift the vents up slightly. Then just hinge the box upwards from the bottom and the top vents can be slid out from under the cross bar.
So you can see the guts of it all..
So, now I can peek at the back of the comb flap and see it directly.. I can also now remove the broken bit from the arm and know I can get it back again I left it there until now in case it dropped somewhere unreachable and I lost the chance to fix is all.
You can see the rivets holding the flap in there - I'll have to remove the top two to get the flap out and work on re-joining the bits on the bench. That can wait until tomorrow as its just gone 11pm here.
All in all not a bad evening - found a bunch of other little things that need attention. The dash lights weren't working because the dimmer wheel is broken, the intermittent wiper speed control was broken too. Plus I need to swap the speedo part of the dash for the metric one I have here, and also work on resurfacing the reflectors for the main instrument lights. As well as cleaning a few other things
Hoping to have it all back together and working by the end of the weekend..
Got the dash out - followed the write-up I linked earlier, which is handily for a RHD car too
Then popped off all the clips around the edge of the heater box, holding the two halves together.
To get the front off the box, you have to undo the inner pair of screws on the windshield vents, and lift the vents up slightly. Then just hinge the box upwards from the bottom and the top vents can be slid out from under the cross bar.
So you can see the guts of it all..
So, now I can peek at the back of the comb flap and see it directly.. I can also now remove the broken bit from the arm and know I can get it back again I left it there until now in case it dropped somewhere unreachable and I lost the chance to fix is all.
You can see the rivets holding the flap in there - I'll have to remove the top two to get the flap out and work on re-joining the bits on the bench. That can wait until tomorrow as its just gone 11pm here.
All in all not a bad evening - found a bunch of other little things that need attention. The dash lights weren't working because the dimmer wheel is broken, the intermittent wiper speed control was broken too. Plus I need to swap the speedo part of the dash for the metric one I have here, and also work on resurfacing the reflectors for the main instrument lights. As well as cleaning a few other things
Hoping to have it all back together and working by the end of the weekend..
#5
Rennlist Member
Thanks for putting up pictures and explanation of this work.
More if you can!
What moves and why?
Can you see any place / reason why rain water could leak past that apparatus and into the cockpit, Hilton?
More if you can!
What moves and why?
Can you see any place / reason why rain water could leak past that apparatus and into the cockpit, Hilton?
#6
Team Owner
thanks for the pictures more is better,
goodluck with repair you might just make it stronger so it will never break again
goodluck with repair you might just make it stronger so it will never break again
Trending Topics
#8
Team Owner
can you give a few more pictures of unit with it assembled so to see the differences from LHD to RHD
#10
Team Owner
Oh also the repair that you make on the flap, thanks
#11
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas!
Posts: 3,267
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Is that the heater core or the evaporator that's in the next-to-last picture. For those of us who will eventually need to replace a heater core, does it look like it can come out with just the cover of the box removed as you have? If so, that could eliminate the need to open the A/C system on the way in to replace the heater core.
An optimist's view ;-)
An optimist's view ;-)
#13
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
My thanks as well for sharing... and yet another request for information: Did you happen to see, while you were in there, how much would be involved in getting to and replacing the flap seal foam that normally disintegrates making linkage adjustments neccessary?
#14
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Mornin' all. The kids are sleeping still (amazing! still sleeping at almost 7am) so I get a few quiet minutes to read and post.
I'll have a look and take some pics of the inside.
Oh - forgot to mention that two of the clips holding it together are hiding behind the footwell flap assembly which is clipped on the base of the box. The footwell flap assembly also includes the drip catcher and drain port (that protrudes in the tunnel), but it can be moved enough to access the clips without taking the tray off the drain tube.
Here's dropping the footwell flap part:
And here's one of the two clips hiding in there. I just popped them off with a large screwdriver. They have a tab on the clips so you can use a screwdriver or similar to re-use the clips. The tab is on the forward-side so you can't see it - I'll probably have to rotate the clips 180 degrees to put them back on, so the tabs point aft.
I'll take a bunch more snaps - I took about 45 last night while undoing the dash (so I can retrace my steps.. and so I know which pockets of my screw/bolt organiser go where). The Rennlist albums have a poor resolution limit, so I'll have to upload bigger pics to my Rennlist webspace, or elsewhere.
Here's a closer one of the whole unit. As far as I can tell from PET and other pictures here its a mirror image of the LHD one?
Will do - once I've taken some pics this morning the plan is to tackle the various bits that need repair so the epoxy can get a 24 hour cure, then I'll clean stuff while that happens.
I'm thinking a couple of slots in the end of the flap (its too thin for holes), and then epoxy a pair of pins through the end part that broke off into the slots for greater key area. I don't want to add too much thickness to the flap as it'll affect its range of motion - but will see about using some thin aluminum sheet to reinforce. The repair needs to be strong enough that I never have to go in there again
Good question - I'll have a poke around and see if its possible to get access, or at least pictures, to the clamps where the pipes join the core (assuming there are some!).
Oh - forgot to mention that two of the clips holding it together are hiding behind the footwell flap assembly which is clipped on the base of the box. The footwell flap assembly also includes the drip catcher and drain port (that protrudes in the tunnel), but it can be moved enough to access the clips without taking the tray off the drain tube.
Here's dropping the footwell flap part:
And here's one of the two clips hiding in there. I just popped them off with a large screwdriver. They have a tab on the clips so you can use a screwdriver or similar to re-use the clips. The tab is on the forward-side so you can't see it - I'll probably have to rotate the clips 180 degrees to put them back on, so the tabs point aft.
Will do - once I've taken some pics this morning the plan is to tackle the various bits that need repair so the epoxy can get a 24 hour cure, then I'll clean stuff while that happens.
I'm thinking a couple of slots in the end of the flap (its too thin for holes), and then epoxy a pair of pins through the end part that broke off into the slots for greater key area. I don't want to add too much thickness to the flap as it'll affect its range of motion - but will see about using some thin aluminum sheet to reinforce. The repair needs to be strong enough that I never have to go in there again
Is that the heater core or the evaporator that's in the next-to-last picture. For those of us who will eventually need to replace a heater core, does it look like it can come out with just the cover of the box removed as you have? If so, that could eliminate the need to open the A/C system on the way in to replace the heater core.
An optimist's view ;-)
An optimist's view ;-)
#15
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Just a minor note - the comb flap itself (i.e. the part that's broken) has a part number on it.
I suspect its not available separately, but just in case, it is 928 573 505 04. Interesting that its not RHD-specific.
I suspect its not available separately, but just in case, it is 928 573 505 04. Interesting that its not RHD-specific.