Flexplate Released--Measured
Spent the afternoon installing a PKlamp...thanks, 928srus!
I measured the splines as recommended by the forum; flexplate moved 3.0 mm. Additionally, crank end play measured at .20 mm. And it looks like the motor mounts are ok; not new, but the engine definitely isn't sitting down on the job.
Finally, how long am I gonna have to drive it before it looks like I don't have 5 bodies in the trunk and the front suspension settles?
I measured the splines as recommended by the forum; flexplate moved 3.0 mm. Additionally, crank end play measured at .20 mm. And it looks like the motor mounts are ok; not new, but the engine definitely isn't sitting down on the job.
Finally, how long am I gonna have to drive it before it looks like I don't have 5 bodies in the trunk and the front suspension settles?
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
Scott--
The car will settle when it's driven some. Depending on your road conditions and your shocks, it could easily be less than 50 miles for complete settling. Or 75. It starts settling right away, just takes a bit to go all the way back down.
The car will settle when it's driven some. Depending on your road conditions and your shocks, it could easily be less than 50 miles for complete settling. Or 75. It starts settling right away, just takes a bit to go all the way back down.
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drop the exhaust from the cats back remove the rear heat shields then remove the rubber plug on the bottom of the TT
With your torque wrench set to 66ft/lbs remove the bolt.
NOTE see how loose it is , then inspect the bolt for shank damage.
the clamp may move some so be aware of that.
put some blue loctite on the bolt threads then install with the preset torque wrench
With your torque wrench set to 66ft/lbs remove the bolt.
NOTE see how loose it is , then inspect the bolt for shank damage.
the clamp may move some so be aware of that.
put some blue loctite on the bolt threads then install with the preset torque wrench
Stan: My clicker wrench says never use it to break anything loose. I often wondered what would be the problem if I set it for 66 to remove a bolt set for 65. It is torqueing in the opposite direction. YMMV.
Dane: I grew up in Ahia. Re settling: Find the roughest road and hit'em moderately. If you are in northern part near Toledo, there are plenty of RR crossings. It could only take 5 miles, but probably a little more. I think older bushings are going to give it up faster than new ones. IIRC a rough gauge is the front fender lip should be +/- 27 inches from ground surface measured directly thru the hub, on level ground, if everything is inflated properly and the ride height is near factory. The rear is 24, I think.
Dane: I grew up in Ahia. Re settling: Find the roughest road and hit'em moderately. If you are in northern part near Toledo, there are plenty of RR crossings. It could only take 5 miles, but probably a little more. I think older bushings are going to give it up faster than new ones. IIRC a rough gauge is the front fender lip should be +/- 27 inches from ground surface measured directly thru the hub, on level ground, if everything is inflated properly and the ride height is near factory. The rear is 24, I think.
Steve i wouldnt worry about using the TQ wrench for loosening one bolt .
I am guessing those instructions are so owners dont use the TQ wrench to break loose very tight bolts.
NOTE the rear pinchbolt will most likely not be tight
I am guessing those instructions are so owners dont use the TQ wrench to break loose very tight bolts.
NOTE the rear pinchbolt will most likely not be tight
I know just the road, then. After a drive, I'll measure.
I'll still give the rear pinch bolt a check; the torque wrench I have is brand new, bought for the PKlamp install/flexplate job, but not a keeper.
I'll still give the rear pinch bolt a check; the torque wrench I have is brand new, bought for the PKlamp install/flexplate job, but not a keeper.



