Xpost: 1987 S4 Long Block FS
#1
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https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...ml#post8234255
109,xxx mi
$800
Located in Southern California
Thank you.
109,xxx mi
$800
Located in Southern California
Thank you.
#3
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Thanks Luan. I will do a leak down and try to figure out how to check compression test per our discussion. Where is the M/28 number on a 32v?
#4
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Michael-
The engine serial # info is on a stamp pad on the right front part of the block. Should be easy to see on your longblock![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The engine serial # info is on a stamp pad on the right front part of the block. Should be easy to see on your longblock
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![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Bored%20block%20M28-47%2085M000953%203-20-09.jpg)
#5
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Thanks Rob. Any thoughts on how to check compression? Luan thought you might know. Since the flywheel is AT, the idea of using my 80 MT bellhousing and starter is out.
#6
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Honestly I'd be more worried about crank endplay with an M28/42 motor than compression or leakdown (and to do a compression test right, doesn't the engine have to be up to temp? You'd have to put the whole front end of the engine back together and set the timing just to spin it with your starter. And all of that would be pointless anyway because Luan would only be using the short block since he's got R2 heads on his current engine. And Luan being Luan, he'd want to split the block, replace the main and bearings and re-ring the pistons anyway. If I was buying your engine, there are only 3 things I'd care about:
1. Crank endplay
2. Bent valves? (and that would only be to be able to sell the heads, I've already got R5 heads in the garage....)
3. Condition of the bores.
And if I was selling that engine, I'd
1. Measure the endplay
2. Pull the heads and photograph all the bores.
Hell, if those things were ok I think $800 is a good price, and I'd consider it as a way to put all my GTS engine parts back into service. But then I'd need a good chassis to put it in, maybe one wired for an S4+ motor.
Damnit Michael, now look what you've done.....
1. Crank endplay
2. Bent valves? (and that would only be to be able to sell the heads, I've already got R5 heads in the garage....)
3. Condition of the bores.
And if I was selling that engine, I'd
1. Measure the endplay
2. Pull the heads and photograph all the bores.
Hell, if those things were ok I think $800 is a good price, and I'd consider it as a way to put all my GTS engine parts back into service. But then I'd need a good chassis to put it in, maybe one wired for an S4+ motor.
Damnit Michael, now look what you've done.....
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#7
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Honestly I'd be more worried about crank endplay with an M28/42 motor than compression or leakdown (and to do a compression test right, doesn't the engine have to be up to temp? You'd have to put the whole front end of the engine back together and set the timing just to spin it with your starter. And all of that would be pointless anyway because Luan would only be using the short block since he's got R2 heads on his current engine. And Luan being Luan, he'd want to split the block, replace the main and bearings and re-ring the pistons anyway. If I was buying your engine, there are only 3 things I'd care about:
1. Crank endplay
2. Bent valves? (and that would only be to be able to sell the heads, I've already got R5 heads in the garage....)
3. Condition of the bores.
And if I was selling that engine, I'd
1. Measure the endplay
2. Pull the heads and photograph all the bores.
Hell, if those things were ok I think $800 is a good price, and I'd consider it as a way to put all my GTS engine parts back into service. But then I'd need a good chassis to put it in, maybe one wired for an S4+ motor.
Damnit Michael, now look what you've done.....![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
1. Crank endplay
2. Bent valves? (and that would only be to be able to sell the heads, I've already got R5 heads in the garage....)
3. Condition of the bores.
And if I was selling that engine, I'd
1. Measure the endplay
2. Pull the heads and photograph all the bores.
Hell, if those things were ok I think $800 is a good price, and I'd consider it as a way to put all my GTS engine parts back into service. But then I'd need a good chassis to put it in, maybe one wired for an S4+ motor.
Damnit Michael, now look what you've done.....
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Also, it looks like Dwayne's garage has a crank end play thread
![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
Any interest in hosting a motor worthiness party? I'll bring the motor
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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#8
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I'd be happy to, except that my engine stand is currently in Bakersfield. Perhaps when Erik is done with all the toys and there's a free weekend afternoon.
I may have a limited imagination, but I can't imagine undoing head bolts without having the engine on a stand. It takes serious torque to undo each bolt after 24 years- my 1/2" rattle gun at 100 psi wouldn't budge any bolts on either motor I've undone.
I may have a limited imagination, but I can't imagine undoing head bolts without having the engine on a stand. It takes serious torque to undo each bolt after 24 years- my 1/2" rattle gun at 100 psi wouldn't budge any bolts on either motor I've undone.
#9
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My only experience removing heads was on a 27 year old 944 motor, but that was in situ. I have an engine stand, but I really did not mean to impose myself. I will likely get up to our desert place this week and give it a go. I will be sure to have questions and pictures to post. Thanks Rob!
#10
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IF the timing belt and drive pieces are still attached, you can do a simple leakdown test to look for bent valves. That and the crank endplay are all you realy have available with the engine out of the car. If it passes leakdown OK (no whisltling noises from either port or from the crankcase) then it might be worth a teardown to inspect the bores.
Rob, grabbing this motor would turn into another high $$ episode, I just feel it. You won't feel the need for another even super-stock engine since it will always be slower than the stroker in the GTS. Especially if it's just going to sit on the stand in the garage waiting for a car that can use it; you don't have enough garage real estate there to hoard anything much bigger than tools I suspect. Maybe there are deals on cheap industrial space there in Irvine. Something that isn't directly in the flight path at the pig-port anyway.
Rob, grabbing this motor would turn into another high $$ episode, I just feel it. You won't feel the need for another even super-stock engine since it will always be slower than the stroker in the GTS. Especially if it's just going to sit on the stand in the garage waiting for a car that can use it; you don't have enough garage real estate there to hoard anything much bigger than tools I suspect. Maybe there are deals on cheap industrial space there in Irvine. Something that isn't directly in the flight path at the pig-port anyway.
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#11
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Dreamkiller....
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#12
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Sale killer
. Actually, Luan has dibs on the motor should it pass muster.
Seriously, thanks Dr. Bob for the tips. I have done leak downs before. Might as well do one on this motor too.
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Seriously, thanks Dr. Bob for the tips. I have done leak downs before. Might as well do one on this motor too.
#13
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Hi Rob, as we spoke today the candidate engine is awaiting for a passing grade,also Martin is going to tudor me on this engine rebuild. He had done a rebuild on his GtS-also as an aviator mechanic in San Diego. I will have an extra engine once the transplant is done, a possibility that Martin want to build a stroker. Any Gts parts that is usable?
#14
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My GTS crank is toast, I've got 7 R1 rods that I wouldn't install in a lawnmower, and 5 GTS pistons that aren't scored too badly. So I'm afraid that's a negatory.
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