Jerry Feather

Hi Tony. I don't think making the lic plate recess smaller will take any more skill that you and your body guy already seem to demonstrate.

Here are some pictures of how I would/did lay it out for cutting.

The real key to this project is finding the correct adhesive to use to glue it all back together with doubling material in the back. What I did was take some scrap ABS plastic, which I have tons of laying around, and glue it first with Acrylic glue to a tab on the back of this S4 rear bumper cover. That didn't hold too well, so I tried with ABS glue, which was better, but still not quite strong enough, then I used some of my Goat Tuff Glue and that turned out really strong. In fact when I tried to pull the ABS off it tore in two and then I had to grind the rest of it off.

So, I am using Goat tuff to hold the pieces together and will probably fill in the seams with flexible Bondo that is designed for these flexible bumper covers.

Jerry Feather

Next I cut out the areas marked for that by first drilling most of the corners with a unibit so I cound have a place to turn my little electric recip saw which I use on body metal.

Jerry Feather

And here where I have also cut out the pieces to be moved.

Jerry Feather

Then I fabricated a channel out of ABS plastic with a board and my heat gun and glued it into place alone the top of the opening both to stiffen that area and to provide a backing for the parts in that area. I have also trimmed the pieces and the openings so that they will fit where they are moved to.

One thing you will notice is that there is going to be a gap of sorts in the upper corners of the recess that will need to be filled. I'll do that be gluing on some backing and then filling the area in with bondo and then schupt it to the desired shape.

You can see that I plan to move the Lic Plate lites inward a little, but I will do that last. I am alo trying to think of a good way to "french " them in when I move them.

Jerry Feather

Finally, at least at this point, and not shown here, I have made an angle for fitting along the bottom of this opening to stiffen that area and to doubloe for glueing the pieces back on. Then I will be glueing on some double material in the verticle areas for making those seams and for holding on patches made to fill the voids. I'll try to send some more pictures of that progress, if you like.

Jerry Feather

Rob Edwards

This board is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get when you click on an updated thread.

Jerry, that's very cool!

Jerry Feather

Thanks Rob. Other than the moderately sloppy trimming and fitting, there is a flaw in my basic design concept here. I plan to work on fixing that today if I get back to this project from working on another with more importance. Can anyone tell what it is?

Jerry Feather

pcar928fan

WOW! Jerry, you do amazing work and the documentation is starting to rival Dwayne!

jpNcos

Awsome stuff Jerry!

T,
I like the plain silver badge.
How do you plan to route the wire for the rear camera?

Jim M.

Jerry, great project. Please start a seperate thread as I want to follow this one closely. Your more important project is the wheel well liners. Dozens if not hundreds of us are waiting patiently for that one to be available.

77tony

Jerry, That does look great, but my car is almost home, so I am not going down that road again. Now focus on those wheel liners ! T

Jerry Feather

Wilco, wilco and wilco. Jerry

Skrilla01

Nice work Jerry

77tony

JP, will have to see what the license plate camera looks like on the car before I pull the trigger on that. Seeing that this 928 will be pretty clean with all the deletes, might just go with a silver or Just Beachy painted license plate frame. Jerry, these products work great for this type of application. 3M Panel Bonding, sand, followed by 3M Plastic Repair, sand again, then primer & paint. Good idea suggested by Jim M to move this project over to: "Rear Bumperette Delete--How To" by Jerry Feather. T

White Lightnin'

Or, you can use your paint idea and fill in the low spots, then sand the paint off the high spots and you will still end up with a muted, brushed silver (and blue) crest...