Removing Front Struts/Springs 928
#1
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I've replaced struts on other cars, but this is my first 928. If anyone has been through this I could use the help.
With the rotor and caliper removed and all nuts and bolts off the strut, the lower arm connecting to the car won't pivot down far enough, and the upper A-arm keeps me from pulling the strut out laterally. The shop manual says to remove the bolts connecting the upper arm to the car, but they aren't very accessible in the engine compartment.
Is there an easier way to get the lower arm out of the way so I can slide the strut out through the opening in the upper A arm?
thanks so much in advance for the help, I was driving myself crazy today.
With the rotor and caliper removed and all nuts and bolts off the strut, the lower arm connecting to the car won't pivot down far enough, and the upper A-arm keeps me from pulling the strut out laterally. The shop manual says to remove the bolts connecting the upper arm to the car, but they aren't very accessible in the engine compartment.
Is there an easier way to get the lower arm out of the way so I can slide the strut out through the opening in the upper A arm?
thanks so much in advance for the help, I was driving myself crazy today.
#4
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On my 1990 S4 I separated the lower ball joint from the spindle and removed the lower control arm completely. This made it easy to raise the spindle and upper control arm so the upper control arm is parallel to the floor to make removal of the spring/shock easier. Once the upper control arms is parallel to the floor the spring/shock drops down through the center after removal of the three retaining nuts at the top.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Hope this helps.
Mike
#6
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On my S4, the inner fender liner comes out. Bolt through the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm bracket comes out. Three nuts on the top in the engine bay come out. Shock and spring assembly drops down enough for the top of the shock to rotate back in the wheelwell, and the shock and spring lift clear of the upper control arm pretty easiy. No ball joints to remove, no control arm to unbolt, and most imporatntly, the alignment sttings are unchanged.
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#7
Three Wheelin'
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How about the "just remove the fender liner" method? : https://rennlist.com/forums/3066741-post1.html
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#8
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It all depends on you model of car, the shocks and springs and the ride height. So...
Try out the top but be prepared to take everything apart.
It all depends on you model of car, the shocks and springs and the ride height. So...
Try out the top but be prepared to take everything apart.
#9
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On my 90 S4 it was simple. Take the three top nuts off shock. Remove lower bolt from shock. Remove upper ball joint nut and separate. Remove Upper control arm bolts in engine bay. take shock out with upper control arm. Install in reverse. Took like 10 min after car was on stands.
#10
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Just to be a true Porsche owner
928s do not have struts.....those are a cheap style suspension used on Super Beetles and 911s ! Gives more trunk space but compromises handling.......perhaps why there are not used in Formula 1. Also why 928s need little in the way of strut braces.
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With a strut suspension design the lateral loads are carried by the top of the strut which is at the top of the shock tower and far from the frame rails. The double a-arm suspension both arms tie into the frame and is further supported by the engine cross member which on the 928 has a nice bolt on brace which helps triagulate the ends of the cross member into the frame where the upper a arm attaches.
#13
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With a strut suspension design the lateral loads are carried by the top of the strut which is at the top of the shock tower and far from the frame rails. The double a-arm suspension both arms tie into the frame and is further supported by the engine cross member which on the 928 has a nice bolt on brace which helps triagulate the ends of the cross member into the frame where the upper a arm attaches.
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#14
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Just separate bottom and steering ball joints, disconnect anti-roll bar, push lower arm all the way down (near vertical), lift hub and upper wishbone with jack or strap, "strut" almost drops out. Works for early and late types. Smiffy