jwillman

My drivers door interior **** shaft was broken so the interior **** would not attache so I got a replacement shaft assembly. My exterior dook locks have also never worked. The drivers door lock with the key rotates 360 deg and did not lock or unlock the doors. The arm on the current door shaft assembly was not attached to the pin on the vertical lock shaft

I have the door panel off but the WSM is not allot of help on getting the old **** shaft asembly disconnected. The vacuum actuator attaches to the bottom of the shaft assembly using tie wraps but the far end is attached to the door lock mechanism and I can't see how to disconnect it.

The door lock shaft and button also doesn't seem to move. I would assume regardless of the vacuum door lock function that I should be able to manually move the door lock pin to lock and unlock the door but it seems stuck in the unlock position.

Do I need to pull the whole assembly apart, door lock cyclinder, external door handle and latch assembly or is there a trick to getting # 6 in the diagram below out?

Ducman82

might have to pull all that to make some room.....

pcar928fan

Ummm...yea, you should be able to make the "pin" move by hand...even if the vacuum is not working. Sorry I can't be of more help other than to confirm you suspicion about the pin moving by hand.

Mrmerlin

remove the cap on the **** and unscrew #4 see if the **** will turn , its possible that the screw is too tight or the **** housing #2 is too tight , eith one will cause the **** to bind.
If you can spin the key and ist not doing anything then something else may have gotten broken due to the screw or **** housing being overtightened

jwillman

Merlin,

When I got the car the inside door panel was off, the **** was not attached to the shaft has the threaded part of the shaft was broken off. I am trying to replace that part and challenged with 1: how to remove it and 2: do I have other issues because of the key behavior.

I assume I should be able to lock and unlock the door with the key even if the inside door look assembly was not installed. The parts diagram shows a stud half way down the door lock **** rod that the manual door lock **** assembly attaches to which agaim majes me believe I have a two seperate problems or they are related and one is causing the other.

I just need to figure out how it is suppose to work so and how it fits together

The WSM says remove key lock cyclinder but does the metal trim ring just pop out? It looks like the latch assembly on the end of the door is held on by the two bolts. Any down side to pulling that off?

Anyone done this job before (stupid question as I am sure I am not the first, trick is getting them to read this thread??

Landseer

I've worked with the lock cylinders a good bit and don't see how access to the rest of the stuff is possible without removing the lock cylinder.

jwillman

Think I have finally figure out that piece. There is a allen head bolt covered by a rubber cap (per merlin's post) at the butt end of the door that holds the key cyclinder in (I think). I will give that a try and see if I can figure out why that bit is not working.

Thanks.

tlsmith1999

Jim,
On my 79 you can not lock the driver's door with the **** or push the pin down if the door is open. You can do both if the door is shut. I believe this is to help prevent locking the keys in the car.

jwillman

Tim,

Thanks soo much. I just tested and in fact with the door closed the post can be pushed down and the door locks (of course with no turn manual lock **** I found myself locked in) but fortunately I had the door panel off and was able to reach in the door to push the lock shaft up. Good thing as me crawling across the seats to get out the other side would not have been pretty!!

So now I need to pull the lock cylinder and figure out why the key does not operate the lock and replace the broken **** shaft.

Still not sure the vacuum locks work but thats another weekend

jwillman

I got the key lock cylinder out and first off it has wires running to it so I assume the car use to have /may still have an alarm. Are the wires there even if the alarm was not an option? My wiring diagram does not show the alarm option.

It appears that the part of the lock cylinder that attaches to the door lock mechanism has broken off (see pic). What are my options? Can I get a new lock cylinder and have it rekeyed?

I did get the interior **** shaft assembly replaced so that at least works!!!!!

Thanks

tlsmith1999

I re-keyed my pas door on the 78, it was not very hard, but I would try to find another door lock and switch the internals from your. You might try Austin Vdub here locally, but the last person I sent there was not too happy with them.

Also there should be a small white plastic connector that attaches to the **** on the broken piece in your picture and the lock. Usually it is broken if the key will not open the door. Or it breaks when you try to get the lock out. I am guessing yours is still connected to the lock. If you need to replace it, I would get a new one from Roger, and not a 30yr old brittle used one.

Ducman82

i have that little piece, a few really, from gutting some old locks. i can mail it to ya if you like.

pcar928fan

I have a full set of locks for a car with the key and everything, but I am loathe to sell it... You are welcome to come check it out and see if it helps you answer your question as to what parts you might need...

jwillman

The white plastic connecting rod is intact The broken part was still attached to the white rod and popped off with so think the rod is still good.

I have been to austin VW a few times and always had good luck (pulling parts off Brians old car).

My passenger door lock does not even turn so may hit you up for rekey guidance when the time comes.

Jim

tlsmith1999

Sure, When the weather gets better bring in out to my place, and we can knock it out pretty quick.