Need help with a CIS no fuel issue-now too much fuel
01-14-2011, 06:44 PM
#16
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You could always try some starter fluid or just prime it with some fuel. Should be enough to prove the timing and ignition are working well enough. How about plug firing order?
01-14-2011, 06:48 PM
#17
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01-14-2011, 06:54 PM
#18
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Go back and check your ignition timing carefully. rotor at the right spot, wires all in the right holes, and firing into the right cyl all the way around.
Pull your oil fill cap and smell, if it smells like raw fuel, change the oil. Take out your plugs, and let the jugs dry out. Once dry, put the plugs back in and pull the fuse for the fuel pump so it won't run.
Use carb cleaner when you crank the engine into the air metering plate(big round thing on the injector head). and see if you can get the car to fire. It should run briefly on carb cleaner when you spritz it.
Once you have this accomplished. Go back to the CIS. The idle adjustment screw should be backed off to the left(CCW) a few turns. Now, while cranking the engine, carefully and very gently, push the metering plate down slightly with the edge of your finger. It is very sensitive. Let us know if it fires first on carb cleaner, then on fuel from the metering plate.
Pull your oil fill cap and smell, if it smells like raw fuel, change the oil. Take out your plugs, and let the jugs dry out. Once dry, put the plugs back in and pull the fuse for the fuel pump so it won't run.
Use carb cleaner when you crank the engine into the air metering plate(big round thing on the injector head). and see if you can get the car to fire. It should run briefly on carb cleaner when you spritz it.
Once you have this accomplished. Go back to the CIS. The idle adjustment screw should be backed off to the left(CCW) a few turns. Now, while cranking the engine, carefully and very gently, push the metering plate down slightly with the edge of your finger. It is very sensitive. Let us know if it fires first on carb cleaner, then on fuel from the metering plate.
01-14-2011, 07:11 PM
#20
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Gunar also reported spark, but weak (looking) spark.
Not to divert from injectors / fuel, but is there a way to put more voltage on the coil by bypassing resistors?
Also, this engine was just reassembled from parts. Should any oil be applied to the top of the cylinders at this point, or is that moot.
Not to divert from injectors / fuel, but is there a way to put more voltage on the coil by bypassing resistors?
Also, this engine was just reassembled from parts. Should any oil be applied to the top of the cylinders at this point, or is that moot.
01-14-2011, 07:13 PM
#21
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I don't know, did it? We can't tell from here. One thing I've learned about CIS is that it's real easy to over fuel them.
01-14-2011, 07:19 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Gunar also reported spark, but weak (looking) spark.
Not to divert from injectors / fuel, but is there a way to put more voltage on the coil by bypassing resistors?
Also, this engine was just reassembled from parts. Should any oil be applied to the top of the cylinders at this point, or is that moot.
Not to divert from injectors / fuel, but is there a way to put more voltage on the coil by bypassing resistors?
Also, this engine was just reassembled from parts. Should any oil be applied to the top of the cylinders at this point, or is that moot.
01-14-2011, 07:22 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
More info on this. The pistons and rings weren't touched. It was basically a reseal and rebuilt heads.
Last edited by gbgastowers; 01-14-2011 at 07:22 PM. Reason: add e
01-14-2011, 07:26 PM
#24
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Here's the thing. It's easy to add more fuel. To get rid of too much fuel is difficult. We don't know(well, I don't know) how much fuel has past the pistons and rings, and is in the crankcase.
So, go back to the ignition and make sure it's timed right. If it is, take out the plugs and let it dry completely. Leave the fuel pump off, and just try some carb cleaner to get it to run for a few seconds. then, start with the fuel metering.
Always work from lean to rich, never from rich to lean. If it's too lean, fine I'll eat crow, and we'll add lot's more fuel. I just don't know which way to go yet.
So, go back to the ignition and make sure it's timed right. If it is, take out the plugs and let it dry completely. Leave the fuel pump off, and just try some carb cleaner to get it to run for a few seconds. then, start with the fuel metering.
Always work from lean to rich, never from rich to lean. If it's too lean, fine I'll eat crow, and we'll add lot's more fuel. I just don't know which way to go yet.
01-14-2011, 07:29 PM
#25
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If you think that you have it flooded, take out the plugs and see if they are fuel fouled. Also another way to set the base adjustment is to loosen one of the fuel lines on top of the dizzy, and with the pump jumpered, adjust the scew on top untill fuel just starts to come out around the fitting. Basicaly the same as puilling an injector to do it, but not such a hassel. Also, if you due decide to check the dump/push valve for cleaning and o'ring condition, if you do this while in the car, it's very easy to drop into no mans zone, so be carefull.
01-14-2011, 08:12 PM
#26
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If you think that you have it flooded, take out the plugs and see if they are fuel fouled. Also another way to set the base adjustment is to loosen one of the fuel lines on top of the dizzy, and with the pump jumpered, adjust the scew on top untill fuel just starts to come out around the fitting. Basicaly the same as puilling an injector to do it, but not such a hassel. Also, if you due decide to check the dump/push valve for cleaning and o'ring condition, if you do this while in the car, it's very easy to drop into no mans zone, so be carefull.
01-14-2011, 09:42 PM
#27
Team Owner
Gunar remove the plugs,
remove the ignition cap,
and verify that you have #1 sparkplug wire at the rotor and the rotor lines up with the hash mark on the distributor housing,
then figure out what way the rotor turns when the engine spins and follow through with the rest of the firing order to verify you have to plug wires routed correctly, this should give the cylinders time to dry out,'
Remove the dipstick and see how much oil is in the pan if its where you left it then dont worry about fuel in the oil, it will evaporate as the engine runs .
BUT if it is way overfilled then you might consider changing the oil and filter.
FWIW Cessna had an oil dilution system on the early 310s this would let you pump raw fuel into the crankcase to thin the oil so the engine could be started when it was very cold, IIRC you would add about 8 to 16 oz. of gas.)
remove the ignition cap,
and verify that you have #1 sparkplug wire at the rotor and the rotor lines up with the hash mark on the distributor housing,
then figure out what way the rotor turns when the engine spins and follow through with the rest of the firing order to verify you have to plug wires routed correctly, this should give the cylinders time to dry out,'
Remove the dipstick and see how much oil is in the pan if its where you left it then dont worry about fuel in the oil, it will evaporate as the engine runs .
BUT if it is way overfilled then you might consider changing the oil and filter.
FWIW Cessna had an oil dilution system on the early 310s this would let you pump raw fuel into the crankcase to thin the oil so the engine could be started when it was very cold, IIRC you would add about 8 to 16 oz. of gas.)
01-14-2011, 10:23 PM
#28
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Gunar remove the plugs,
remove the ignition cap,
and verify that you have #1 sparkplug wire at the rotor and the rotor lines up with the hash mark on the distributor housing,
then figure out what way the rotor turns when the engine spins and follow through with the rest of the firing order to verify you have to plug wires routed correctly, this should give the cylinders time to dry out,'
Remove the dipstick and see how much oil is in the pan if its where you left it then dont worry about fuel in the oil, it will evaporate as the engine runs .
BUT if it is way overfilled then you might consider changing the oil and filter.
FWIW Cessna had an oil dilution system on the early 310s this would let you pump raw fuel into the crankcase to thin the oil so the engine could be started when it was very cold, IIRC you would add about 8 to 16 oz. of gas.)
remove the ignition cap,
and verify that you have #1 sparkplug wire at the rotor and the rotor lines up with the hash mark on the distributor housing,
then figure out what way the rotor turns when the engine spins and follow through with the rest of the firing order to verify you have to plug wires routed correctly, this should give the cylinders time to dry out,'
Remove the dipstick and see how much oil is in the pan if its where you left it then dont worry about fuel in the oil, it will evaporate as the engine runs .
BUT if it is way overfilled then you might consider changing the oil and filter.
FWIW Cessna had an oil dilution system on the early 310s this would let you pump raw fuel into the crankcase to thin the oil so the engine could be started when it was very cold, IIRC you would add about 8 to 16 oz. of gas.)
01-14-2011, 10:38 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
I am pulling the plugs to let it dry out. I have double checked the position of the cam gears and rotor at TDC ,and plug wire locations and they look good. The oil level has not changed so I'll leave the oil in for now. I plan on changing it after I get it running for a bit.
01-14-2011, 10:40 PM
#30
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How long does it take to dry out?