gbgastowers

I have an 82 Euro S 5sp that I have breathed new life into and now I'm trying to start it. So far no fire at all after limited cranking. I verified that I have spark now to fuel. I pulled an injector and put it in a bottle and cranked it and got no fuel. Then I pulled the fuel line off at the injector and jumpered the fuel pump and cranked it and still have no fuel. Something is plugged. I guess I'll now have to pull the spider off to get to the fuel distributor and see what's up. That's a lot of work but I don't think there is any other choice. I know I have fuel to the input on the CIS cause I pumped some through before I connected it. So it's between the input to the fuel distributor and the injector feed line.

James Bailey

Before you start pulling it apart try pushing down on the big round plate that floats up and down below the aircleaner leave everthing in place but the air cleaner assembly . Bridge the fuel pump so it runs and push down when the injoctors spray you can hear them. Also try shooting in some carb spray to see if it fires on that. Also note your ninth injector the cold start should be shooting in gas into a cold engine. If it sat for a long time the plunger in the fuel dist may be frozen in place....

gbgastowers

Thanks James- I read about the air flow sensor plate earlier before I started to take it apart. Here's where I am now:Some good news- after doing some research I found that if you push the air flow sensor plate down(Dano is that what you are saying with the meter flap?) fuel starts going to the injectors.You can hear the activity. I did this and double checked by pulling 1 injector and it is spraying a fine mist. I think that's what it's supposed to do. So now I know I have spark and fuel. Why wont it fire just for a second? Fuel pressure? I am going to charge the battery back up and maybe wedge a hose in the air flow sensor plate area to prop it open and get fuel flowing to the injectors when I try and start again tomorrow. I haven't cranked a lot on it yet since it sounds like there is no hint of a start when I do. Should I jumper the fuel pump so it stays on when I try to start? Looks like I need to read up on how CIS works now. Gunar PS- I haven't removed the spider but I sure can't get my airbox out with all of spider in place even when removing the pressure screw that goes through the plenum.

Podguy

I am betting a clogged WUR. Just a guess, but if the car has set a while the WUR clogs up with varnish. You can take it apart and clean it. You really should get some fuel gauges for the CIS. I think Harbor Freight has a set at a reasonable price.

Go-carter

You have to remove a 13mm bolt at each end of the box, then flip it up on the side, and slide it out. No problem with the spider in place

If you just want to start it, you can hace a friend push down the plate, while you're cranking.

jwillman

So If he gets fuel to the injectors when pushing on the pressure plate the fuel is flowing through the distributor. What does the WUR have to do with a no start?

karl ruiter

There is an idle mixture adjustment screw that sets the home position of the metering plate. If it is too far out then the plate will be all the way closed when you are trying to start it and it will get no fuel while you are cranking and not start. Try running it in a bit. I think (though I am not sure) you want to see the plate start to crack open just a bit with the motor stopped. Go slowly as a little bit does a lot. I agree with Jim: likely not a WUR issue at this point.

gbgastowers

Thanks- I have been messing with that- I made a tool with 3mm allen wrench and brake line to adjust. I see that I am supposed to have the fuel pump jumpered and turn this clockwise till I hear the injectors start then back it off a little. No luck with this yet. If I push the plate down with my hand the injectors run. I have also tried to start after wedging a hose in there to keep it open and injectors on. I just verified the timing settings by checking tdc,cam gear marks, rotor at #1 mark and pulled plug #1 and saw the piston at the top. Don't know what's wrong but it has not fired one time. I have verified spark and fuel past injector on #8.

Dennis Wilson

As Jim Bailey mentioned, the system is probably lacquered. Recommend you try cleaning the system using throttlebody spray cleaner. Open all the ports on the distributor and WUR and spray the cleaner through the systems. It may take multiple applications to get things cleaned up. Also, remove the relief valve from the back of the distributor and check the condition of the o rings. They may have broken up and are blocking the system, WUR or return line ports.

Dennis

gbgastowers

I did get a fine mist of fuel when I checked injector #8.
Can you still get some fuel through the injector and still be plugged up?

MountainShark

Pull #1 injector, leave it connected to fuel line, if you jumper the fuel pump you can adjust the metering screw until you get spray at the injector. do this for very long and you will hydraulic lock the motor but will get the fuel adjusted so the motor should start, whether WUR is good or bad. Does your car have a fuel accumulator valve? If it does and it is bad makes the car a bitch to start.
Butch
78 928 alive and almost well

MountainShark

to answer your question. If the lines are plugged, your system is supposed to produce about 70 psi cold , its enough to produce at least a drip if the lines are partially plugged. If adjusted right there should be a visible spray at least 2" long from the injector.
Butch
78 928 5sp #57

docmirror

Go back and check your ignition timing carefully. rotor at the right spot, wires all in the right holes, and firing into the right cyl all the way around.

Pull your oil fill cap and smell, if it smells like raw fuel, change the oil. Take out your plugs, and let the jugs dry out. Once dry, put the plugs back in and pull the fuse for the fuel pump so it won't run.

Use carb cleaner when you crank the engine into the air metering plate(big round thing on the injector head). and see if you can get the car to fire. It should run briefly on carb cleaner when you spritz it.

Once you have this accomplished. Go back to the CIS. The idle adjustment screw should be backed off to the left(CCW) a few turns. Now, while cranking the engine, carefully and very gently, push the metering plate down slightly with the edge of your finger. It is very sensitive. Let us know if it fires first on carb cleaner, then on fuel from the metering plate.

Dennis Wilson

Yes, you need more fuel. Also, if the injectors only were plugged, the engine should start with the fuel from the cold start valve, then quit after a few seconds. This leads me to believe the fuel distributor is fully or partially plugged. Give it a thorough cleaning through all the inlet/outlet ports and check the condition of the relief valve o rings.

Dennis

docmirror

Glad you're so sure.