My intake pieces at the PC shop..
01-18-2011, 02:35 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Gus? Who's Gus?
I paid..for everything I had done..intake pieces, water bridge, cam covers, strut brace, bout 5lbs of steel hardware..and then about 10 other small pieces for PC around the garage..bout $795.
The shop I used was:
http://www.eps-plating.com/
I probly could have paid less shipping out..but that would have cost a ton as well with insurance and all...plus being asked to come inspect at each step was fun too.
New Pics:
Intake with one side having ONE coat of color..the yellow is a pain, its _thick_..I think I'll thin it out a little for the second coat..using qtips for cleaning up on edges/detail when I have to.
The cam covers. Left one has one coat, right one has two. I am letting the paint wick up the sides..im just not not not smooth enough to not touch the sides, so im using the sides to my favour.
The colors im using:
Bottom bright yellow: Model Masters #2717. Bright Yellow
Horizontal stripe of darker yellow: MM #52713. Dark Yellow *duh*
Bright Red: MM #2718 Guard Red
Dark Red: ..something I had layin around..just wondered...didnt use it.
I'll like it when its done...but those raised letters, they taunt me.
..sorry for the crappy iFone camera...
01-19-2011, 12:12 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok..ive started over on the raised lettering.
You'll see in the photos I used a 1" foam brush, found at any hardware store.
That worked damned well...
After you swipe across a letter..you can use the edge of the foam for detail work, as the surface of the letters is anything but even..
There is a little detail work to do afterwards..the paint will in a few places fall down the letter. I used a square tip brush wet with thinner, to pull up/put the mistakes.
10000% easier, quicker, and better output than using a standard brush IMHO. Maybe 10min to do the first pass of paint..it'll start to detail out better after the 2nd pass.
For the cam covers..I really wanted the paint to wick up, but it was too thick. I bought some penetrol...its like thinner, but its -not-. Penetrol is like a lubricant that will help the product flow, it is not necessarily a solvent like paint thinner. If you are into "enameling" where you want to lay the product off really smooth, Penetrol is better. It will slow down the dry hard time.
The results of the 2nd coat one one of the covers. I really like the surface tension that the penetrol gives..you get reflected light at ANY angle you'll view these from. And yes, I added some for the intake lettering as well. Removes all traces of brush marks pretty nicely. To clean up the edges on the covers..I used Q tips wet with thinner, and ran them along the edge..and just enough cotton in the head would run over the lips of the lettering, to remove just the -right- amount of paint on the inside. Came out really well.
You'll see in the photos I used a 1" foam brush, found at any hardware store.
That worked damned well...
After you swipe across a letter..you can use the edge of the foam for detail work, as the surface of the letters is anything but even..
There is a little detail work to do afterwards..the paint will in a few places fall down the letter. I used a square tip brush wet with thinner, to pull up/put the mistakes.
10000% easier, quicker, and better output than using a standard brush IMHO. Maybe 10min to do the first pass of paint..it'll start to detail out better after the 2nd pass.
For the cam covers..I really wanted the paint to wick up, but it was too thick. I bought some penetrol...its like thinner, but its -not-. Penetrol is like a lubricant that will help the product flow, it is not necessarily a solvent like paint thinner. If you are into "enameling" where you want to lay the product off really smooth, Penetrol is better. It will slow down the dry hard time.
The results of the 2nd coat one one of the covers. I really like the surface tension that the penetrol gives..you get reflected light at ANY angle you'll view these from. And yes, I added some for the intake lettering as well. Removes all traces of brush marks pretty nicely. To clean up the edges on the covers..I used Q tips wet with thinner, and ran them along the edge..and just enough cotton in the head would run over the lips of the lettering, to remove just the -right- amount of paint on the inside. Came out really well.
01-19-2011, 12:17 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Very fine. Good tips. Your car is going to be outstanding. You Californians are overachievers. You, Rob, Greg, BC, long list
BTW,
My uncle used to do that type of thing.
He got 16 cents a day.
BTW,
My uncle used to do that type of thing.
He got 16 cents a day.
01-19-2011, 12:22 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nonono...I'll be skin deep pretty. If I had the patience to go all out (im just waiting on parts to go back together..)..Id have the engine out and polished up.
I wont win nothin...
01-19-2011, 12:52 AM
#37
Chronic Tool Dropper
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For those playing along at home, Glyptal is an ancient GE paint originally made for sealing the cast housings for large-frame electric motors. Iron-block hot-rodders used it to provide a smooth surface on the rough iron block castings to get the oil to flow faster down the inner walls into the sump. Dan, the cast finish on the 928 block interior wet walls is probably as smooth as the Glyptal finish. It's definitely too smooth to safely hold the paint; I suspect the oil pickup would clog with sheets of the paint, blown off the block walls by crank-whipped oil sprays.
01-19-2011, 05:00 AM
#38
Three Wheelin'
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Dr. Bob Thanks
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.
01-19-2011, 12:15 PM
#40
Drifting
01-19-2011, 12:20 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
On the cam covers..you see the stack of Qtips? It'll take a few coats..but as the coats get thicker, the paint with the Penetrol will start to wanna wick up the edges..help it if you need to..then go over the top edge with the Qtip wet with thinner while pressing down on it (across the top of the cover just at the edge) and that'll clean up just enough paint to look really nice as shown.
The intake raised letters..penetrol to help it not give brush marks...1" wide foam brush..and with just the tip wet..and a little pressure...just wipe it across, and use a thin straight cut brush with thinner to pull out paint where it wicks down the letters a little..typically right in between two raised parts..like at the inside edges of the arms of the E.
01-19-2011, 03:11 PM
#42
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Dr. Bob Thanks
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.
Jeff, very nice detail work on the lettering. I'm glad the factory didn't add different colors to the various letters, or we'd be forced to duplicate the quality they had on the parts. I'm sticking with no colors myself to maintain the original look. But yours look great. Good tip on the flow enhancer/fisheye killer too.
01-22-2011, 09:43 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I got a few PMs on what I meant by doing detail work after using a sponge brush to go over the raised lettering...well I did the 2nd coat today, and took some close photos.
This is before any cleanup..the paint will run in some places, and because the sponge isnt perfectly even..and you are pushing down on it just a little as you draw it over the raised lettering at a 45d angle or so..some does go down edges/etc..as seen here:
This is much closer view, during detail. With the rush half wet with thinner, brush along the sides..easy enough, and then put the brush like this..and hold it for just a moment for the thinner to wick up the paint in the valley where the brush is being held..thats it!
This is before any cleanup..the paint will run in some places, and because the sponge isnt perfectly even..and you are pushing down on it just a little as you draw it over the raised lettering at a 45d angle or so..some does go down edges/etc..as seen here:
This is much closer view, during detail. With the rush half wet with thinner, brush along the sides..easy enough, and then put the brush like this..and hold it for just a moment for the thinner to wick up the paint in the valley where the brush is being held..thats it!
01-22-2011, 11:22 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Dr. Bob Thanks
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.
I was not thinking of using it on the block but on the inside of the manifold and valve covers. I have not heard of people using it since the 1960s, but it is available from Eastwood. If nothing else it would look good. Gylptal will also provide a seal preventing oil and gas from seeping through and loosening the powder coat on the outside.
I remember a guy name Dave used to pickle the parts in some acid to remove the embedded oil. But I cannot remember the name of the acid. It was a process of soaking the metal in the acid solution, baking them after and a scond soaking. This supposedly a method to get all the embedded oil from the parts.