Pull engine or not?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,715
Likes: 89
From: Tasmania, Australia
Definitely disconnect the bellhousing from the engine to get it out.
It also helps to have a spreader bar attached to the lift points which gives you a lower connection point and the ability to lift the engine higher to clear the body. The spreader also lets you tilt the engine back more easily to clear the firewall, crossmember and body.
Double check you've disconnected everything before you start lifting ... and then check again while you're lifting to see that nothing's hung up or catching.
If you've got a welder you can easily make something like this ....
It also helps to have a spreader bar attached to the lift points which gives you a lower connection point and the ability to lift the engine higher to clear the body. The spreader also lets you tilt the engine back more easily to clear the firewall, crossmember and body.
Double check you've disconnected everything before you start lifting ... and then check again while you're lifting to see that nothing's hung up or catching.
If you've got a welder you can easily make something like this ....
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 359
From: Holden Beach, NC
Definitely disconnect the bellhousing from the engine to get it out.
It also helps to have a spreader bar attached to the lift points which gives you a lower connection point and the ability to lift the engine higher to clear the body. The spreader also lets you tilt the engine back more easily to clear the firewall, crossmember and body.
Double check you've disconnected everything before you start lifting ... and then check again while you're lifting to see that nothing's hung up or catching.
If you've got a welder you can easily make something like this ....
It also helps to have a spreader bar attached to the lift points which gives you a lower connection point and the ability to lift the engine higher to clear the body. The spreader also lets you tilt the engine back more easily to clear the firewall, crossmember and body.
Double check you've disconnected everything before you start lifting ... and then check again while you're lifting to see that nothing's hung up or catching.
If you've got a welder you can easily make something like this ....
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,742
Likes: 78
From: Minneapolis
Check the pics of the official Porsche engine removal tool. It has three attachment points to the engine. I run a chain to the PS bracket.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Good and bad news here, had drivers side dowel stuck but got it free, engine came out smoothly although I had one problem, the hoist could only get the engine in the air just high enough, the engine put a big scratch on drivers side fender. It was down to the primer. Well, now its time to pull the heads, clean clean clean, and re seal everything. wondering what bolts I should use to attach to engine stand.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 359
From: Holden Beach, NC
Pull one of these from passenger and driver side and use them in the top part of the engine stand. They will go in the upper threaded part of your bell housing. You can buy some standard ones for the bottom since there are no threads there. Make sure they are long enough where you can put a nut on the backside.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Just started disassmebling engine. The cheapo engine stand from harbor freight is garbage. I left the cherry picker connnected to prevent a fall. the engine tilts forward extremely far. The stand is rated at 750 lbs. I need a better one before moving forward. One of the cam tower bolts is stripped on the drivers side. I was going to either drill off the head or find some type of quality bolt extractor. I removed the head from the passenger side and found no noticable head gasket problems. Kinda stuck at the moment. Need more tools.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,115
Likes: 344
From: Texas
Glad you pulled the engine. Sorry you put the scratch on your fender.
I had to retighten the bottom front two cam cover bolts on the passenger side. It took me over two hours to tighten those two bolts 1/2 turn each. Will definitely recommend removing the engine.
I had to retighten the bottom front two cam cover bolts on the passenger side. It took me over two hours to tighten those two bolts 1/2 turn each. Will definitely recommend removing the engine.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Here is what I found so far. Three of the lifters seem to depress easily with finger, the rest wont budge. also found two high spots on one of the heads. Didnt look like anything got past but I would like to know what you guys think. Head gaskets had no noticable holes or failures. Also in my previous reply to thread, I found that piston and spring are not present in my engine that are listed in picture. Help would be appreciated.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 4
From: TEXAS
Can you post pictures from both sides of the two head gaskets side by side?
Also post pictures of the deck surface of the block.
lifters depressing is normal since oil will bleed out of them when the car sits for a long time. Make sure you don't mix them and they go back to their original location.
Also post pictures of the deck surface of the block.
lifters depressing is normal since oil will bleed out of them when the car sits for a long time. Make sure you don't mix them and they go back to their original location.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 4
From: TEXAS
Just started disassmebling engine. The cheapo engine stand from harbor freight is garbage. I left the cherry picker connnected to prevent a fall. the engine tilts forward extremely far. The stand is rated at 750 lbs. I need a better one before moving forward. One of the cam tower bolts is stripped on the drivers side. I was going to either drill off the head or find some type of quality bolt extractor. I removed the head from the passenger side and found no noticable head gasket problems. Kinda stuck at the moment. Need more tools.
Also about those piston and spring, if you have them their next to where the oil filter mounts, there's two of them, I'm not sure but I think one of them is for the engine oil cooler.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 4
From: TEXAS
The head gaskets look pretty good, the engine looks pretty good too.
Can you please explain again why the engine was pulled?
I see the pic for the coolant in the intake port, but I would think that the chamber would look clean??
Can you please explain again why the engine was pulled?
I see the pic for the coolant in the intake port, but I would think that the chamber would look clean??
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I pulled the engine because of a rough running condition under load and then found foamy oil along with coolant on top of an intake valve. I have replaced a lot of parts chasing this problem. Also did a lot of tests that came out good. Compression was good, fuel pressure was good, no major vacuum leaks that I could find. Oil pressure was 120 cold although ive been told this is normal. was suspecting a cracked head and found nothing. At least at this point I can resolve all my oil leaks and clean out the engine bay.