I have turned 140K miles and since the last belt replacement at 87K (at the time of purchase in 2005) Past records show 2 prior belt change before the 87K and no gear changes since new.

So I have started on my TBW project since yesterday I assumed that I would find one or more oil seal/gasket leaks as I've been living with oil leaks despite the fact that I have changed the pan gasket about 2 years ago.

The plan is to change out all the gears, cams, oil pump and crank shaft gear.

Remove the air pump and in addition change from the factory tensioner to the Porken tensioner

Replace the rebuild water pump installed at 87K (cost was $133.20 than) with a new Lasso plastic impeller.

Replace all seals for cams, oil pump and crank.


Yesterday I remove all the required parts and found that I have no leaking oil seals but a crack in the fuel vapor hose that connects to the oil filler neck so with the air streaming over and around the engine there are cleaning needs all over.

I checked the timing of the cams before pulling thing apart and that looked good (see pictures) The condition of the gears warrants replacing all of them during the last 53K of service I only rentensioned the belt after the first 2000 miles and refilled the oil in the tensioner ones.

The water pump has some scale build up on the inside but not inside the engine block all bolts came in normal fashion but I found that the GTS harmonic damper has an outer ridge that does not allow you to take of the lower TB cover.

The damper required heating with an air gun and about 30 minutes of tapping working it back and forward before it would come of.

So today is clean-up day.

More later…

 

Herman, my cam sprockets looked about the same at 135,000 miles. Not sure why the left (passenger) side sprocket has more wear than the other side. Good luck with the project. Which water pump will you be using?

 

Herman, nice job thuis far. Keep the verbiage & pics coming. T

 

I am ready to start mine very soon so I look forward to following along.

 

herman
sorry bout the cam gears, considering the current availibility/pricing situation. look forward to the progress pics

 

I think I recall seeing a thread on having the cam gears reconditioned if they aren't too far gone...

 

WYAI looks like its a good time to swap out the ignition wires also

 

those are to far gone I would think.

 

crank drive gear also looks worn

 

I do have a new set of ingnition wires on hand but I'm also planning on do a top end refresh and was going to do this at the same time.

Greg I think your right holding a straighy across the teeth shows quite a bit of light

I have been cleaning oil from the engine and all surrounding areas I think the oil came from a broken hose (see picture) I'm trying find the part number for the valve and try to understand it's function

Thanks for the comments

 

I plan to change all gears and have them on hand. I'm looking for and extra Intake manifold of a 89 or later model so I can do the refresh before pulling mine.

 

I found a lot of scale in side the pump housing but none in side the engine block.

In side the water bridge it looks like the inner gasket is rock hard and stuck to the body. The picture of the clean unit is an extra one I have on hand planned to go on with my top end refresh.

Any likewise experiences?


Thanks

 

Herman a paint can opener (kind you get free with a can) is a great tool to pull that from the back of the water bridge. You'll want a new one by the looks of yours.

RE scaling on the WP - I have not see such on mine which was 5 years old. Could that be hardwater scaling or some sort of WP leak stopper by a previous owner?

 

It's function is to open and purge the stored vapor/liquid fuel from the charcoal canister.

It is called the EVAP system on modern cars made here, and seem to be a constant source of check engine lights.
That is what smoke machines were originally made for, checking for leaks in the evap system.

On the gears, pretty much any time you can see any of the AL base metal they need to be changed, I have a few sets that have a peppered look that may be good for recoating.
I am sending them to Hacker to see what they can do with them.

 

Herman, think Sean has a spare intake manifold, but I don't know what year it's from. Give him a call, I'm sure he will swap with you.

If the cracked hose is from the charcoal canister then I don't think it would be the cause of your engine oil all over the engine. Sounds like there is a leak somewhere else, my guess would be some part of the crankcase breather system.