QA in the copied body

 

If they fail in the open position (and the hoses are not broken or open to the atmosphere), that failed valve will leave the fuel tank exposed to manifold vacuum all the time and will collapse the gas tank.

Here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-sender-2.html

 

Herman,

I'm facing this job soon too, so looking forward to following yours.

I am hoping my gears don't need replacing at 95k, but who knows.

 

As would be my guess.

 

and be able to re coat them like Andrew Olson did. Do you have new gears on hand? What tensioner are you going with let me know if you need some help.

 

I followed you link and found the valve information I was looking for in your post #41 and #46 I will re-copy the information here...

Now I'll have to check the electric schematic for the voltage and test this valve...

Thanks Rob

 

It can be tested with a diagnostic tester (if you happen to have one).

 

Got hammer will test LH > EVAP

Bedankt Aryan

 

From everything I've read here, I want to wait for warmer weather to do my windshield. Do you have the removal tools? If not I'll drop by Harbor freight and pick them up. I also need to get some 3M strip caulk.

I agree about using an 89 or newer manifold. If your going to use a spare then why not do a little porting and polishing on the new one before you install it? I did that when I did my top end refresh.

 

Herman,

I don't have any parts yet, and I'm not sure when I'll tackle the job. I probably should try to do it this spring before it gets hot. I thought I'd get in there and look around before ordering any parts.

Undecided on tensioner. I tend to think the stock tensioner has done well for me over the last 16 years (I've never had the tension light come on) and as long as it's rebuilt with each belt change, it should be fine, but I need to read up again on the upgrade, and pros and cons, before deciding.

Thanks for the offer of help. If I were in DFW, I'd be over handing you tools for sure.

 

A (used) extra factory tensioner that I had bought several years ago you can have it if you like.

 

Lets talk about parts and tools needed so we can plan send me an email or call.

 

You guys are so lucky to have so many shark owners around you. I have just me and one other guy (Ben Burris with an 86.5). We don't get anywhere near the opportunity to work on all the cool things you guys do.

 

Part number is 944 605 240 01 and circa $200.
A used one may be in order.

 

Thanks for the part number reading the information on the schematic (post #21) "the solenoid valve is open when without power", makes me believe that mine may still be good as right now the battery is disconnected.

I also see now that the same schematic only shows that the hose after the solenoid valve only goes to the throttle body whereas on the GTS there's a T connection that goes to the oil filler neck.

So when adding oil it can run back from the neck to the lower location of the solenoid valve and in my case leak out through the broken hose.

I also have found that the GTS filler neck has a large hose connection (1") to the left side of it that run what appears to the throttle body as well I did look it up in PET (part # 928 107 303 09) but it does not show that port in the parts drawing.

Some pictures to support these findings

Not all filler necks are the same!!!

Pic 1 Alan Moore's filler neck shows the larger port on the left the top addition was added for his Provent connection.

Pic 2 Jim M's provent connecting is through the bottom of the filler neck

Pic3 Jim had plugged the hole on the left he did tell me why but I forgot

Pic 4 My still dirty connection from the right side of the filler neck comes down and goes to the left and connect to the solenoid valve athe low side before going left the hose has a leg that goes to the throttle body and between this point and the filler neck there's another "T" with a cap on it this port is for testing?