gas filler neck hose...
#1
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From: Carlsbad, California
gas filler neck hose...
I suspect my 84 has a bad gas filler neck hose, as the car leaks a small drip of gas when I fill the thank, which goes away after a 30 minute drive. I never get any leaks when I fill it up 3/4's of the way...
Can this upper filler neck hose be replaced without removing the entire gas tank and supporting vacum, pump, other hoses..., etc... ?
Any pics would be greatly appreciated...
Al
Can this upper filler neck hose be replaced without removing the entire gas tank and supporting vacum, pump, other hoses..., etc... ?
Any pics would be greatly appreciated...
Al
#2
It is probably the seal on the sending unit on the top of the tank. I have had this issue with 2 sharks already. Look under the rear carpet, remove the black cover on the right side. Look down through the hole and you will see the cap to the sending unit. The seal under it is probably the issue. These cars do not have hose to the fuel tank.
If you are having this issue, it might be time to drop the tank and replace all the fuel line under there. Roger at 928sRUs has all you need. Please remember to empty the tank as good as you can because, if you don't, you will smell like gas for a week. Ask me how I know?
Good luck,
If you are having this issue, it might be time to drop the tank and replace all the fuel line under there. Roger at 928sRUs has all you need. Please remember to empty the tank as good as you can because, if you don't, you will smell like gas for a week. Ask me how I know?
Good luck,
#3
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From: Carlsbad, California
updates
I found this text and diagram from another poster.., Has anyone tried checking these two items without dropping the tank...
"Two common locations for a leak when full; vent line that runs through the bumper (12), and seal around the sender in the top (11). Lift up the rear carpet and remove the cover over the sender and check for leaks before dropping the whole tank."
"Two common locations for a leak when full; vent line that runs through the bumper (12), and seal around the sender in the top (11). Lift up the rear carpet and remove the cover over the sender and check for leaks before dropping the whole tank."
Last edited by evozine; 11-27-2011 at 12:06 PM.
#4
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From: Carlsbad, California
tank..
Thanks Frank,
I will take a look this weekend. Are you saying that my 84S doesn't have the part #12 listed in the diagram...? That would be great, one less item to look at...
Although I probably just need to take the time and disconnect all and drop and clean out the tank, replace all lines..., etc.
I heard of a poster who removed all of the vacum items and put in a simple fram paper filter... I need to check out that option as well...
AL
I will take a look this weekend. Are you saying that my 84S doesn't have the part #12 listed in the diagram...? That would be great, one less item to look at...
Although I probably just need to take the time and disconnect all and drop and clean out the tank, replace all lines..., etc.
I heard of a poster who removed all of the vacum items and put in a simple fram paper filter... I need to check out that option as well...
AL
#5
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Al,
It may be possible to replace #12 on your car without dropping the tank. Never been able to do it myself.
Much better to drop the tank which is very easy when its empty.
Do the job properly.
Roger
It may be possible to replace #12 on your car without dropping the tank. Never been able to do it myself.
Much better to drop the tank which is very easy when its empty.
Do the job properly.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#7
All model years have #12. And you have to be careful when dropping the tank to make sure that hose does not get stuck in the fender and break the nipple where it attaches to the tank.
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#8
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Cut the old #12 with shears as the tank descends so it doesn't break it's attachment point.
Lube the new one w/ WD-40 as the tank goes back in.
You can use strips of an old truck tube for the strap padding. Leave them fairly wider than necessary because they will shift some after driving.
Lube the new one w/ WD-40 as the tank goes back in.
You can use strips of an old truck tube for the strap padding. Leave them fairly wider than necessary because they will shift some after driving.
#9
Yes, you do have a part 12. If i remember correctly it is the tank vent line. If it is bad, and you have to pull the tank, then it is time to replace every rubber hose under there. You will thank yourself for many years to come if you intend to keep the car. It is a PIA to do but just took me a weekend. I did it in the gurage and it stunk up the entire house. It is hard to get all the gas out before dropping the tank.
However, the problem of leaking gas in both of my cars that had the issue was definatley the seal under the sending unit.
Best of luck,
However, the problem of leaking gas in both of my cars that had the issue was definatley the seal under the sending unit.
Best of luck,
#11
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When I dropped my tank and replaced stuff, I looked at the short return hose from the steel line into the sender unit, because the sender end was frayed.Sort of crimped on to the steel line, but it took VERY little effort to pull off. I replaced it and fitted a screw clip to hold it. Note that where the tank seats against the body you will need to stick some padding foam to the body to prevent chafing. When replacing the nut and seal holding the sender in, it helps to lube the nut, and warm it to ensure its tight. I use 2 large crossed screwdrivers to open/close this nut.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#12
Also, make sure the barbs #12 attaches to aren't broken. I had a customer with the "T" barb just above the filler break off and leak out of there. You can't really get to the other barb on the other side of #12 though without dropping the tank.
#13
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I wouldn't cut the #12 hose (unless you know 100% that it's the leak culprit first...) it's something like a $60 or $70 molded Porsche hose.
The hardest part of dropping the tank is getting the car high enough up in the air to get it down and out. Once the battery is disconnected, tank drained and fuel lines disconnected , you do need to be careful about the hose fittings. But if you remove the filler neck baffle, you can undo the 4 bolts holding the tank cradle, undo the 6mm hex bolt thru the filler opening, then drop the tank 2-3" and get a straight shot at the filler neck end of the vent hose. The other end of the vent hose can be accessed thru the tank sender access hole.
Crappy shot (it's at the extreme bottom of the pic) of the right-angle vent clamp on top of the tank, looking from the sender access hole:
The hardest part of dropping the tank is getting the car high enough up in the air to get it down and out. Once the battery is disconnected, tank drained and fuel lines disconnected , you do need to be careful about the hose fittings. But if you remove the filler neck baffle, you can undo the 4 bolts holding the tank cradle, undo the 6mm hex bolt thru the filler opening, then drop the tank 2-3" and get a straight shot at the filler neck end of the vent hose. The other end of the vent hose can be accessed thru the tank sender access hole.
Crappy shot (it's at the extreme bottom of the pic) of the right-angle vent clamp on top of the tank, looking from the sender access hole:
Last edited by Rob Edwards; 01-06-2011 at 10:37 PM.
#15
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Underdressed women sitting on my hood?