nonextant

Hi,

I haven't been on this forum since I sold my 944 back in 2005, however....

While browsing the local classifieds I saw a 1982 928 just down the road from me. On a whim I stopped by to check it out and ended up driving it home for $800.

I am currently working on a 1981 euro-spec BMW 635CSI with no heater blower, and since the heater in the Porsche works, I'll be driving it until I get the BMW's up and running.

So... I've only had the car for a few hours and am about to start searching the forums to learn more about the issues I have identified with the car. I just wanted to take a quick moment to say hi, and I look forward to getting to know you all much better in the near future.

Here are my known issues so far:
- Hood and trunk air shocks inop
- headlights do not raise or turn on.
- warning lights work when key is turned on, but no instrument lighting
- door vanity lights work when switched on at light but not when door is opened
- a leak somewhere allows water to enter the cabin... I suspect the sunroof
- windshield washer inop... still have to try with lights on per FAQ post
- no brake lights
- passenger window inop
- stereo and speakers missing... probably stolen if the cut wires are any indication
- no spare tire pump
- drivers door lock unlocks itself, central locking works fine from passenger side
- heater blower is on full constantly when heater mode is not in "OFF"
- ran fine, then started to stumble at idle (tank was nearly empty, so I topped it off and added some injector cleaner, will check again tomorrow)
- possible power steering leak
- no power to either seat
- steering wheel was loose, had to retighten before driving
- I think I am missing some relays. Will post a picture tomorrow when it's light out.

That's all I can think of out of hand. Will post pictures soon and will continue to document repairs as I make them.

Again, I look forward to getting to know everyone and I hope you all have a pleasant night.

Thanks,

Mark

docmirror

Welcome, congrats and well bought. If you can drive it for $800, you done good.

All you need now is a phone. Call 817-430-2688 and tell it all to Roger. He's got what you need.

pcar928fan

$800 and DROVE IT HOME, is not bad!

Nothing you described there that is wrong sounds to expensive on the face of it, but all good be a deep rabbit hole if not careful.

Magic blower syndrome would be the blower problem I think...
Seats might well be a relay.
Lights might well be the switch (watch the 928 episode of Wheeler Dealers!)
Drivers door lock (or passengers door lock) must have some sort of problem. If one lock is not working *normally* the car will unlock the other lock. The reason for this (as best I can tell) is so that if you lock one of the doors but the other one DOES NOT LOCK you don't want a false sense of security thinking you have locked your car so that door you just locked instead of staying locked, unlocks itself to let you know there is a problem... My '84 would do this because there was a linkage problem on the passenger door and it would not lock at all...
Passenger window is probably a switch, but could be the motor...
Hood and hatch shocks are cheap and easy to replace and common failures.
No telling about the brake lights, but could be the bulbs or a fuse I guess...if not either of those then good luck...
Powersteering leak, common...usually a hose or clamp that needs to be tightened.

Good luck and keep us posted...hope some of my info turns out to be a help and correct.

White Lightnin'

Probably not so lucky if it was newer with the 32v interference motor... in this case, low tech = better reliability?

Congrats & good luck!

nonextant

Did a little digging around in the dark... the brake lights are working now.... had to really push down on the pedal to get them to light, but now they work with a light touch. I'll take a good look at the switches tomorrow.

Followed another post to check the ignition switch. Mine doesn't return to position 2 and is keeping the starter engaged until manually pulled back. I felt up underneath and the plug to the switch seems really loose... gonna have to pull it and take a look tomorrow. With the leak into the cabin, I really need to check the fuse area really well for moisture behind the panel. I should also check and clean all the grounds in the car.

pcar928fan> Thanks for the feedback and I'll definitely follow up on the relays. I'm sure you're right about the locks... If I unlock from the driver's side the motor spins loudly until I relock using the key. from the passenger side all is normal.

Barry> I have to double check, but I think the 82 and older cars all had the non-interference motor... fortunately the PO had the timing belt and all fluids changed recently... he apparently just got frustrated with all the electrical gremlins and gave up on the car.

Just got done watching the Wheeler Dealers 928 episode, so I will look into the switch. Gonna pull up the wiring diagram and determine what to jumper to test it. I may go ahead and manually raise the lights to see if they illuminate to see if it's a light and motor problem or just the motor.

James Bailey

The return spring is part of the ignition elec switch.....they all fail and cause all kind of interesting problems.

Landseer

A local shop called me to handle one of these recently.

My advice was to clean all grounds. Door pins and hatch pin. Plus remove and clean CE panel / all new fuses / all new top row of relays, also new fuel pump relay on the bottom row. Pull hood, remove and seal fan (above panel).
Immediately and before driving, replace all the fuel supply hoses, including the injector 50mm hoses and install new injector seals. Best to pull intake tubes to do it.

The electrical foundation is then established. Any skinned, melted or broken wires are identified.

And the very real, very scary fuel issue is thwarted.

Do not press into DD service before doing this stuff.

(We refused to do any other work on this shop 928 until this was done.)

On this earlier car, the other critical replacment item is original aluminum ball joints.

Tom. M

Hey Mark..

Get on over to the PacNW 928 list and introduce yourself .... linky: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/PacNW928/

We've got locals all over Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia and beyond (including our southPacNW chapter (Portland OR).

Adam B (atb on this list) and I have a shop in South Tacoma (off of 74th and S. Tacoma Way)...we usually post up on the PacNW list when we are there doing whatever on our 928s.. Stop on by and we can check out your new 928

White Lightnin'

That's correct... 16v non-interference motor.

I was just sayin' to James that if it was a later 928 with the 32v motor, for $800 it wouldn't be driven home...

So, in this case less is more!

pcar928fan

Barry, I missed your meaning on that post originally too, but now I gotcha and agree 100%! You are NOT going to be driving ANY 32v or EURO S home that cost $800! Those are going to be PARTS CARS!

dr bob

I was just thinking yesterday about a local enthusiast who had a non-interference motor, but the skipping belt snapped the nose off the DS cam as it walked high on the sprockets. Bottom line is that not bending valves is good on the non-interference motors, but that doen't mean there won't be damage. Change the belt proactively on schedule, rather than as a reactive action after it breaks.

Barry Chan

If you start with all electrical connection, fuse and grounds cleaning, most of your issues will be solved.
My window, hatch and sunroof didn't work for years and found all the answer here on how to...
They all work now! My list was at least 3 times but what a feeling every time i wrote done/fixed/repaired/replaced on it and now my list is so short, i just drive, drive, drive, maintain, upkeep and upgrade. Welcome to the best addiction ever!

DonS

Congratulations from another 16v owner!

One other point - there's a C clip on one of the raising arms on the lights. If this C clip comes off the arm will poke itself into your radiator. Check that clip (both sides).

Also, a good cleaning of the fuses and the panel will probably solve a few of your electrical problems.

Welcome to the shark cage.

pcar928fan

Bob, you are quite correct! That is what had happened to the engine in Brian former 928 Sexual Chocolate! Drivers Side broken cam where the pulley is! Snapped right off!

docmirror

Do we know that the cam broke because the belt rode up, or do we suspect it? There is another failure mode with these cams that isn't related to belt tension.