ubercooper

I've decided to bite the bullet and get a fuel cell, my only conundrum as of yet is how to mount the damn thing. It will definitely require some cutting but to what extent I am not sure. Does anyone have any pictures or info on the best way to install one of these suckers?

Thanks again guys
-Seb

mark kibort

cut the entire rear area out, including that heavy battery box

IcemanG17

Yup cut it all out....it leaves plenty of room to mount a cell

mark kibort

why go through the hassle though? are you racing in a class that demands it?
the colapsible plastic tank is pretty safe and protected by the rear part of the frame. what do you plan to gain? certainly not a weight savings, and you can save some of that just by removing some of the rear batterybox area.

What we do know, is fuel cells are pretty fickel and fuel starvation and other issues is a common problem fuel cells. a few people have worked out the bugs and I would construct my fuel system exactly like they did as to not re-invent the wheel, or just leave the stock tank in place.

Speedtoys

..plus the cost of replacing bladders what..every 2yrs now?

We have a 26gal one on the way, but thats only because we need one to complete a race longer than 32minutes long.

Its definitely spending $ the wrong direction on a race car if not required. It doesnt simplify anything, doesnt make anything lighter and in most cars, moves a heavy moving, sloshing, weight..further away from the center of the car than it was before.

But..make sure that because it's a new install, not grandfathered..it is FIA FT3 certified or newer.

And..

• There must be a solid metal bulkhead completely separating the fuel tank, fuel
pump, fuel cell, filler neck hoses, and/or vent lines, from the driver compartment.
• The cell must contain a bladder that is FIA FT-3 (or higher) rated.
• The cell should be in a container made of at least 0.036-inch steel, 0.059-inch
aluminum, or 0.125-inch Marlex, fully surrounding the bladder.
• Foam internal baffling is required, as per FIA FT3-1999 (or higher).
• The filler cap, line, vents hoses, etc. should be designed so that no fuel will
escape if the car is partially or totally inverted.
• There should be a small drain hole in the outside box to purge fuel trapped
between the bladder and the box.
• Filler necks should not be mounted through a window panel (exceptions may be
made at the discretion of the Chief Scrutineer).
• The competitor is responsible for ensuring that the cell, bladder, and components
are installed, maintained, and replaced per the manufacturer’s instructions and in
accordance with applicable sections of the CCR.
• The bladder has a date of manufacture and serial number. The competitor is
responsible to note this in the front of the logbook.
• Bladders older than 5 years should not be used.
• As a January 1, 2009 the competitor will be responsible for showing proof of the
age of the bladder. It is highly recommended that the receipt for the purchase of
the bladder (or entire cell) be stored with the Vehicle Logbook.


Thats one example of some CCRs pertaining to install...choose your installer (or whom you choose to use for advice) carefully.

Ive seen people tow for 100s, and nearly 1000 miles to a race, to find out some guy that builds dragstrip cars back home, had no idea what they were doing, and the car could not complete without significant work to the car.


Cells can be a huge PITA.

Speedtoys

Also..what do those down tubes attach to on the cage there...are they...bolted sideways, to the chassis?

kccampro

Also, make sure you get a cell from ATL or Fuel Safe. Skip the urge to get a less expensive cell from somewhere else. Drag racing parts are not the same as road course parts and that includes cells. If you get a proper cell you'll be fine.

toofast928

Wow Mark, Jeff thanks. Cross this one off my list. Keep the OEM fuel tank.

IcemanG17

This is a good point....I have seen LOTS of problems with 928's that run fuel cells...and just about zero with stock tanks (as long as the intank pump works)

ubercooper

Wow, that's quite unfortunate to hear. The rules do not require it, but because this is a fairly quick car and the fuel system is getting redone anyway, I figured it wouldn't be the worst investment. After reading all this, I'm thinking it might be an enormous unnecessary pain in the *****. Thanks for the heads up guys, you've saved me a few hundred dollars and a lot of time.

Also I have an external pump, and don't use the in tank

That they are... for the next week until that gets turned into a full welded in cage

Speedtoys

Are they welding to a plate to the side, or DOWN to a pad?

I would have left them a full uncut tube, or using a collar, extended it. You have 100 square inches of pad you can use..and the pad would be down to the floor and up the side some, to get it in contact with the chassis in both axis. Where the rear shocks mount..that area is part of the strongest part of the car..use it.

But I wouldnt have stopped the tube short..it wont be nearly as strong in shear as compression all the way down...and thats the mode you will use that brace in..compression bein upside down.

mark kibort

jeff, we get near 1 hour on a tank of gas with the stroker. for 30min races, i only use exactly 11 gallons. I cant tell you how many times that the reserve light comes on on the very last lap.
(was 8 gallons for the holbert engine)