fbarnhill

I am in need of this tool. If anyone out there that has one that is willing to rent or lend for a weekend, I would be very grateful.

I am on the east coast.

I have one drivers side rear that is so bad, it is preventing me from driving the car.

Next question? Should I replace both rears at the same time?

Thanks,

karl ruiter

I think the guy that is repainting his son's car posted that he had one at one point. I am hoping we can talk him into letting members rent it. If not, perhaps some of us can throw together to buy one and pass it around. I will need one soon too.

SharkSkin

There is already a West Coast copy of the tool(dr bob) and now one in Texas -- see this thread.

TheClairvoyant

I have one, but I'm in NJ. It's a pretty heavy item to ship.

dr bob

Tom--

I think Bill Ball used FedEx Ground and got a reasonable rate. Mine's been to various places on the left coast over the last couple years. Someone borrows it and pays shipping, then holds on to it until the next person needs it. Mine's been home here since Sharktoberfest when Sharkskin brough it from the bay area after a few months' vacation there. (the tool, not Dave on the vacation thing..)


Frank:

Dean Fuller in Texas is between gigs, so I suspect that he would appreciate a bit of rental cash to cover his purchase of the tool. Try him first if you can!

fbarnhill

Thanks Dr Bob. I found one for just the Porsche 928 for $187.00 but am quite broke at the moment. I was trying to put the stuff together to do an intake refresh when I realized just how bad the darn thing was. I have ordered the bearing and will get it in the freezer as soon as it arrives. I have been thinking of making one from a piece of thick steel tube with a heavy plate on the top, drilled for a 3/4" bolt. Run the bold through to the back and use another smaller one to pull the bearing out.

Where there is a will there is a way. I will send Dean Fuller an email and see what we can come up with.

dr bob

Frank--

Harbor Freight sells a kit that is the 'installation' parts, including the plates for pulling the bearings back in. With the right pipe and the plate you describe, you could use those pieces to extract the old one. Or use a big slide hammer. Andrew Olson wrote a couple years back about his experiences with that setup. While he was able to get it to work, it didn't sound nearly as easy as using the right tools.

The "pulling" process starts with extracting the hub from the bearing, so the pipe-and-plate with a hefty threaded rod would be the first tool setup. The nut on the back of the rod, from the back of the hub, needs to be big enough to pull on the hub but small enough to pass through the bearing. With the hub out, the circlip on the front comes out. Then the pipe and plate and threaded rod go back through the remains of the bearing. This time there's a round drive plate that's big enough to contact the outer race of the bearing, small enough to pass through the rear of the casting. Jack the bearing out with that setup. Then reverse the tool setup to pull the new baering back in from the front; your pipe and plate is now behind the carrier, and the drive plate is on the outside of the new bearing. Tighetn the nuts on your threaded rod and draw the frozen bearing into the carrier. Install the circlip, Install all the parkking brake parts. The hub is drawn back in with a smaller drive plate behind the bearing, supporting only the inner race of the bearing as it pulls. If you use a bigger plate or the pipe/plate you made, it flattens the ***** in the bearing as you draw the hub in, so be careful with your setup. There isn't quite enough length on the stub axle part of the driveshaft to use it to draw the hub back in until you are most of the way in with your tool, but that puts pressure in the right places so you can visualize better what your tool setup needs to look like.

---

Dave Anderson (Sharkskin) added a pulling plate and a bearing splitter to the west-coast kit for getting the inner bearing race off the hub. Saves a possible trip to a machine shop if you aren't otherwise ready for that step at home.

FWIW, I think Bill B mentioned a ship cost of about $25 each way for getting ours back and forth between SF and LA. That's for the FULL B-90 package. I think both Dean and Tom have a sub-set of the full kit, with just the pieces needed for the 928, so perhaps a little less weight to ship.

fbarnhill

Dr Bob,
Thanks once again. I have read through the thread that Bill Ball wrote up about their experience. I think for me the hardest thing is going to be getting the hub off first. I will look at HF to see if they have a larger gear puller. It dawned on me that if I found one large enough, I could possibly use the center bold from it for my bearing puller. As to the inside race, I thought I would use a high speed dremel tool to bust it loose.

dr bob

No way to use a standard puller to get the hub out of the bearing. Nothing in the middle for the bolt to push on while the fingers hold the rim of the hub. A BIG slide hammer with a jawed puller is the next-best option to the correct B-90 tool. The hub removal is actually the perfect place for you to try the pipe-plate-bolt tool you described above.

fbarnhill

Cool,
Thanks Dr Bob. Guess I will check the size before looking for the pipe. I had my 79 on the lift earlier today and thought that removing the whole carrier assembly doesn't look that hard. Haven't looked at the 88 yet but it should be somewhat similiar. I know it is much more busy work but if the other idea doesn't work, I can always remove it and take it to the machine shop.

tmpusfugit

My total experience with axle bearing removal and installation on 928's is precisely 1. But, I don't think anything short of the B90 tool would have pulled this bearing out. It was tight, and even with the bearing on the screw shaft of the B90 I used a 18" breaker bar and had to lean into it more than a bit for at least the first half of the removal. The massive cross piece on the tool did bow a bit under the removal pressure and it must be 3/4" thick by 3" wide. I don't think a slide hammer would have worked on this bearing. Without the tool I suspect it would have been necessary to pull the entire housing and press the bearing out using a press.

Pressing the new bearing in went substantially easier.

Regarding the inner race that remains on the axle shaft, in this case was I used a thick chisel between the flange and the axle and was able by light taps alternating side of the race, move the bearing out 1/8" or so. I was then able to grab onto it with a wheel puller and take it off easily. Removing the e ring that retains the wheel bearing I used my "special e ring tool" described in other threads....

dr bob

Frank--

The pipe you use needs to fit over the rotor/wheel flange on the hub, so it's gonna be pretty substantial. The crossbar needs to be similarly substantial, on the order of 3/4" thick and at least a few inches wide. long enough to span the pipe. The drive plates aren't something you will find at the metal yard BTW; they need to be the right OD for the task, round, and thick enough to pull against for both removal and installation of the bearing and hub pieces. The threaded rod is pretty stout, ~~ an inch in diameter, and is tougher than common all-thread.

fbarnhill

Dr Bob,
How can I reach Dean Fuller of Tx? I think I need his rennlist name to send a private message. It is starting to look like shipping from Tx might be worth it, along with a reasonable rental fee. However, I have some things to put on Ebay and if they sell for what I hope, I may just buy one for the East Cost. I asked the guy at the tire store yesterday and he didn't even know what I was talking about. So, it looks like DIY will at least get it right.

I knew this was going to be a Bi#$%h. I helped my old 928 mechanic do one a 100 years ago and he removed the bearing with a large socket and 5lb hammer from the back side. I know it took both of us at least 30 minutes of swinging that darn hammer. I am too old for that these days. I wound up paying him, I think, arund $400.00 for the job. The car was just awsome after that. I will never forget the difference it made. I guess it just went bad so gradually, I just didn't notice it until it got bad.

I will get it done. The bad part is that now I am smelling gas from under the hood. I had to move it out of the gurage last night because it stunk up the house. I know, fuel lines... Ordered some line and clamps from Roger yesterday. I just hate to do the gas lines without doing the R&R on the intake... Just can't afford to do it right yet and don't want to do it half way....

Thanks for your help,

AO

Slide hammer wouldn't budge it for me. I used the HF tool and it worked. Took some head scratchin but it came out fine. You'll also need the 3/4" drive socket set and a length of pipe to get the rear wheel nut off and to re-tighten.

AO

Here's the thread...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-benefits.html