5 Speed conversion progress
#61
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Greg, the lip around the shifter opening orients the rubber shifter boot. Any way of orienting and holding down that boot would be a good thing, it might even be better than original to screw in strips along the edges.
In my racer I have nothing but that rubber boot. There are 2 fire extinguisher lines that run on either side of it. I mounted the clamps for the lines close to the boot and the lines act to hold the boot down. it really works nicely and it's a treat to not have that boot come off the lip![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
In my racer I have nothing but that rubber boot. There are 2 fire extinguisher lines that run on either side of it. I mounted the clamps for the lines close to the boot and the lines act to hold the boot down. it really works nicely and it's a treat to not have that boot come off the lip
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I am not really seeing any kind of lip, are we talking about the bead that is around the opening?
#64
Nordschleife Master
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Greg,
The 2.5 days also included a ton of cleaning, resealing the pan, new MM, redoing the oil filler neck, which of course means the intake came off. As well as resealing tge valve covers as the had some weeping/leaking.
I also had to swap hubs which means disassembling the e-brake cable.
If I had not removed the motor, and redid all that I would have saved a TON of time.
However, it is nice to have everything back together and have no leaks.![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
But keep in mind that i was doing nothing else.
The 2.5 days also included a ton of cleaning, resealing the pan, new MM, redoing the oil filler neck, which of course means the intake came off. As well as resealing tge valve covers as the had some weeping/leaking.
I also had to swap hubs which means disassembling the e-brake cable.
If I had not removed the motor, and redid all that I would have saved a TON of time.
However, it is nice to have everything back together and have no leaks.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
But keep in mind that i was doing nothing else.
#65
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Not a snowflakes chance I could pull my engine and just put it back in the car in 2.5 days.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
All in all, it is going to take us a good full three days to do just the conversion.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
All in all, it is going to take us a good full three days to do just the conversion.
Greg,
The 2.5 days also included a ton of cleaning, resealing the pan, new MM, redoing the oil filler neck, which of course means the intake came off. As well as resealing tge valve covers as the had some weeping/leaking.
I also had to swap hubs which means disassembling the e-brake cable.
If I had not removed the motor, and redid all that I would have saved a TON of time.
However, it is nice to have everything back together and have no leaks.![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
But keep in mind that i was doing nothing else.
The 2.5 days also included a ton of cleaning, resealing the pan, new MM, redoing the oil filler neck, which of course means the intake came off. As well as resealing tge valve covers as the had some weeping/leaking.
I also had to swap hubs which means disassembling the e-brake cable.
If I had not removed the motor, and redid all that I would have saved a TON of time.
However, it is nice to have everything back together and have no leaks.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
But keep in mind that i was doing nothing else.
#68
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removing the mounting bracket for the auto shifter is pretty easy. Just knock out the spot welds. I reused the one I took off for the conversion from five speed to an auto. It actually went together pretty easy.
#69
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Mine did not look exactly like that, it had the lips at the front and back, but not on the sides.
We are close to being done, maybe 6 more hours, we had to modify a few things, like the lower bellhousing cover, had to grind off from the front and at the boss for the slave cylinder, and I am worried about it at the slave cylinder a little.
What did you folks do about this?
I still have to finish putting back the interior, install the exhaust, adjust the clutch, replace the starter relay and a few other things, but it is close.
May be the middle of next week before I can get to work though if it snows and we have ice here Sunday.
We are close to being done, maybe 6 more hours, we had to modify a few things, like the lower bellhousing cover, had to grind off from the front and at the boss for the slave cylinder, and I am worried about it at the slave cylinder a little.
What did you folks do about this?
I still have to finish putting back the interior, install the exhaust, adjust the clutch, replace the starter relay and a few other things, but it is close.
May be the middle of next week before I can get to work though if it snows and we have ice here Sunday.
#70
Nordschleife Master
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I was using a 87+ push rod on a 85 release arm. So it was a little long and I didnt feel like cutting it off at that moment, so I spaced out the slave to verify the length would work first.
Havent had a chance to go back in. However I did not have to modify my bellhousing. I did however have to grind a little off the starter bracket for the aluminium flywheel.
Havent had a chance to go back in. However I did not have to modify my bellhousing. I did however have to grind a little off the starter bracket for the aluminium flywheel.
#71
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I was using a 87+ push rod on a 85 release arm. So it was a little long and I didnt feel like cutting it off at that moment, so I spaced out the slave to verify the length would work first.
Havent had a chance to go back in. However I did not have to modify my bellhousing. I did however have to grind a little off the starter bracket for the aluminium flywheel.
Havent had a chance to go back in. However I did not have to modify my bellhousing. I did however have to grind a little off the starter bracket for the aluminium flywheel.
I may try to get a later model lower cover, this one is off of a 80.
#72
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Well, about done with it, should be fired up Monday, if I can get to the shop due to ice.
special thanks to Colin for help with the wiring on the starter.
Exactly what differences were there in the wiring on the Auto's vs the manuals?
Also, should I rewire the coding plug to US cat manual trans?
I doubt I will do this right off the bat, but I may do it soon.
Just like a few things on the interior and put the air box back on and it should be done.
special thanks to Colin for help with the wiring on the starter.
Exactly what differences were there in the wiring on the Auto's vs the manuals?
Also, should I rewire the coding plug to US cat manual trans?
I doubt I will do this right off the bat, but I may do it soon.
Just like a few things on the interior and put the air box back on and it should be done.
#73
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I think so, yes. The EZK has an input from the transmission, to retard timing during shifts, and the LH has an input to drop the idle speed when it is in gear. I don't know how it will behave with those inputs disconnected, the simple thing is to fix the jumper.
And congratulations on almost being done!!
And congratulations on almost being done!!
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#74
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I think so, yes. The EZK has an input from the transmission, to retard timing during shifts, and the LH has an input to drop the idle speed when it is in gear. I don't know how it will behave with those inputs disconnected, the simple thing is to fix the jumper.
And congratulations on almost being done!!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
And congratulations on almost being done!!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
I also want to thank Hacker for trying to educate me on Dual disk clutches, and Greg Brown for all the help he has given me over the years.
#75
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Why is this a good combo (without going into detail about optimizing hp at speeds YOU use the car in)?
that modification is basically an entire shift down of all the gears, plus a little bit more. spacing is the same, so where is the advantage? (besides hill climbing with a resultant, 40mph 1st gear (vs the stock 50mph 1st gear)
)
that modification is basically an entire shift down of all the gears, plus a little bit more. spacing is the same, so where is the advantage? (besides hill climbing with a resultant, 40mph 1st gear (vs the stock 50mph 1st gear)
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BTW, I know the answer to this, just like every other drag racer in the world knows.
You keep saying it make no difference as far as the rear end ratio, but brother, there are a lot of street freaks out there that can, and have, proved that theory wrong.
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)