Getting hot
#61
Team Owner
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replace the HCV and short hose measure the temps with an IR gun ,
do not use the pod gauge
do not use the pod gauge
#62
Racer
Thread Starter
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I use an IR gun on the upper hose to measure temps.
Kibort- Why not just run without a tstat for the test?
The pump I removed was good and the new pump is also not bad. Im willing to check flow through the radiator and out the tstat but I have no supply of water Im in an apartment.
How could the heater not functioning and the car not cooling with out extra rpm corelate? I could replace the hcv or the radiator, but ide rather know how they relate before I do. Like if one was clogged would it directly effect the other?
Thanks all
Kibort- Why not just run without a tstat for the test?
The pump I removed was good and the new pump is also not bad. Im willing to check flow through the radiator and out the tstat but I have no supply of water Im in an apartment.
How could the heater not functioning and the car not cooling with out extra rpm corelate? I could replace the hcv or the radiator, but ide rather know how they relate before I do. Like if one was clogged would it directly effect the other?
Thanks all
#63
Team Owner
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OK take out your HCV and test it for function
#64
Team Owner
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have you ever had the heads off this engine?
if so its possible that maybe the head gaskets are not on correctly?
if so its possible that maybe the head gaskets are not on correctly?
#65
Racer
Thread Starter
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No heads have never been off, the car has had a lot of time on the road without more than a tb/wp job before this happened. Even that was a while ago so this sort of spontaneously popped up.
#67
Team Owner
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what are the temps your seeing with your IR gun?
#68
Rennlist Member
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The T-stat is an INTEGRAL part of the flow system. without it, it will overheat just as fast as if you had a clogged radiator.
Just do as I say! take your old t-stat and wedge it open. you do this by pushing the movable part against the spring tension until the guide shaft comes out of its hole. then, you put something in between, so the t-stat cant close. again, I use a spur gear from a minature toy motor. anything like that will work.
Then, re assemble. now, the system is ready to curculate flow. you can do all tests easily. if you dont have a water source, find one or you can use a couple of buckets of water to do the test. it doesnt take much water at idle.
just pour into the lower radiator hose disconnected from the lower radiator , or my way, is to leave it attached since it is a little difficult to reach, and just get another hose of the same diameter and attach it to the t-stat housing inlet. you pour water into the new hose . the exiting water will come out the upper radiator hose. leave it pointing down or where ever you want the exit flow to go. thisway, you can check engine flow, or connect it and watch it pump out the radiator as well. you check eVERYTHING by doing it this way, narrowing down your issue. if it flows out the engine, but not the radiator, radiator is clogged. if it doesnt flow, you have a pump or engine clogged issue, caused by a rag in the engine, bad pump, or you put the t-stat in backward again.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(or like was mentioned, the head gasket was installed reversed).
this entire process takes less time than i have spent writing my notes on this thread! DO IT and report back.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I hope its something simple. its not a head gasket failure, as that wouldnt over heat the system that quickly, without pushing the water out the overflow from the pressure it would add to the system.
Just do as I say! take your old t-stat and wedge it open. you do this by pushing the movable part against the spring tension until the guide shaft comes out of its hole. then, you put something in between, so the t-stat cant close. again, I use a spur gear from a minature toy motor. anything like that will work.
Then, re assemble. now, the system is ready to curculate flow. you can do all tests easily. if you dont have a water source, find one or you can use a couple of buckets of water to do the test. it doesnt take much water at idle.
just pour into the lower radiator hose disconnected from the lower radiator , or my way, is to leave it attached since it is a little difficult to reach, and just get another hose of the same diameter and attach it to the t-stat housing inlet. you pour water into the new hose . the exiting water will come out the upper radiator hose. leave it pointing down or where ever you want the exit flow to go. thisway, you can check engine flow, or connect it and watch it pump out the radiator as well. you check eVERYTHING by doing it this way, narrowing down your issue. if it flows out the engine, but not the radiator, radiator is clogged. if it doesnt flow, you have a pump or engine clogged issue, caused by a rag in the engine, bad pump, or you put the t-stat in backward again.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(or like was mentioned, the head gasket was installed reversed).
this entire process takes less time than i have spent writing my notes on this thread! DO IT and report back.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I hope its something simple. its not a head gasket failure, as that wouldnt over heat the system that quickly, without pushing the water out the overflow from the pressure it would add to the system.
I use an IR gun on the upper hose to measure temps.
Kibort- Why not just run without a tstat for the test?
The pump I removed was good and the new pump is also not bad. Im willing to check flow through the radiator and out the tstat but I have no supply of water Im in an apartment.
How could the heater not functioning and the car not cooling with out extra rpm corelate? I could replace the hcv or the radiator, but ide rather know how they relate before I do. Like if one was clogged would it directly effect the other?
Thanks all
Kibort- Why not just run without a tstat for the test?
The pump I removed was good and the new pump is also not bad. Im willing to check flow through the radiator and out the tstat but I have no supply of water Im in an apartment.
How could the heater not functioning and the car not cooling with out extra rpm corelate? I could replace the hcv or the radiator, but ide rather know how they relate before I do. Like if one was clogged would it directly effect the other?
Thanks all
#69
Racer
Thread Starter
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Mark I will do the test, you convinced me. It sounds like it will take a friend to make sure it doesnt overheat, another to pour water and me to make sure nothing , or very little, spills. Being in an apartment this is much more complicated. I have a few more questions regarding it though. I have watched a garden hose flow out of the radiator before and same came out as went in. I am sure the tstat is in properly, the one I pulled out was original and new one went in same way. What on earth could clog the cooling system months after even touching it? I dont stuff rags in there and it seems unlikely that it could be from a previous owner given the time. Could the HCV be a clog? Im going to pull it off and check it also.
Also instead of having someone pour in water could I just have the lower hose connect to a jug full of water? Like a 5 gal jug? Seems like I would need to keep the level in the jug below the top of the engine or water will just pour from the jug out the upper hose even if the pump is bad. The jug would also have to be vented at the top....
Thanks!
Also instead of having someone pour in water could I just have the lower hose connect to a jug full of water? Like a 5 gal jug? Seems like I would need to keep the level in the jug below the top of the engine or water will just pour from the jug out the upper hose even if the pump is bad. The jug would also have to be vented at the top....
Thanks!
Last edited by Formula94lt1; 04-09-2011 at 04:43 PM.