Silicone Rubber Oil Pan Gasket Installed With Tabbed Lock Washers
12-17-2010, 01:34 PM
#31
Rest in Peace
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It depends on the thickness of the gasket material. For the gaskets I purchased separately from both you and Carl (928Motorsport), they were both 3.15mm thick, so any shim spacer for 15.9% compression would be, according to my spreadsheet .... 2.65mm
Where you place the shim and how large the shim is will impact on the integrety of the gasket's seal. The block is flat, but the pan has large pockets to eliminate gasket slippage. The shim would need to be larger in diameter than the pan bolt holes.
There are probably other things to consider when designing a gasket compression limiting shim. Probably not worth the effort.
Where you place the shim and how large the shim is will impact on the integrety of the gasket's seal. The block is flat, but the pan has large pockets to eliminate gasket slippage. The shim would need to be larger in diameter than the pan bolt holes.
There are probably other things to consider when designing a gasket compression limiting shim. Probably not worth the effort.
12-17-2010, 03:49 PM
#32
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I like this solution better than studs and nylocks. You cannot really measure torque on a nylock, plus they are just a pain if you have to go a long way in a tight space.
12-17-2010, 04:02 PM
#33
Race Car
Why would the position of the limiters matter? They will all serve to make sure the gasket at those points compresses to the proper thickness. Or are you saying that some parts of the gasket are compressed more than others?
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
12-17-2010, 04:29 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Here is another technique that's used on limited production cars. A little difficult to use this method on the 928 sump in situ.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire
12-17-2010, 08:01 PM
#36
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I thought about doing it to mine, but I would have had to have the spacers made.
The thickness should be easy to figure out, just measure how much space is between the pan and girdle on a correctly installed gasket.
03-18-2011, 01:57 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
When I get to do my pan gasket, I will seriously look at wiring the bolt heads - just a bit more prep work to. Not hard to make a jig to enable drilling a corner instead of straight acrosss, and it wont take long in a drill press. IMHO it would be quicker than making lock tab washers, for me.
Are there any long term downsides to using the Realgaskets units?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Are there any long term downsides to using the Realgaskets units?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
03-18-2011, 04:30 PM
#39
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When I get to do my pan gasket, I will seriously look at wiring the bolt heads - just a bit more prep work to. Not hard to make a jig to enable drilling a corner instead of straight acrosss, and it wont take long in a drill press. IMHO it would be quicker than making lock tab washers, for me.
Are there any long term downsides to using the Realgaskets units?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Are there any long term downsides to using the Realgaskets units?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Roger and I installed it and he was convinced about the quality and the benefits of silicone instead of cork, the rest is 928 history...
04-20-2011, 11:58 AM
#40
Drifting
This is a great idea. There is a company called Stage 8 Locking fastners that have something similar for making sure the bolts do not vibrated out. They can be seen at www.stage8.com.
04-20-2011, 01:36 PM
#41
Instructor
This is a great idea. There is a company called Stage 8 Locking fastners that have something similar for making sure the bolts do not vibrated out. They can be seen at www.stage8.com.
04-26-2011, 10:31 PM
#42
Drifting
So I contacted the Stage 8 fastners for the oil pan bolts which needs 25 of M6x28 and 5 of M6x25. They only have the 25mm or 30mm. They can modify the 30mm to 28mm at an additional cost. The price of each bolt with the groove, lock and E clip is $4.72 each plus shipping. So that means it is a total of over $140 just for the fastners.
I guess using blue locktite might be s better and cheaper option.
I guess using blue locktite might be s better and cheaper option.
07-16-2012, 03:00 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
I now have drilled the heads of enough M6 bolts to do this now - broke a few drills getting there, but 1/16" are cheap enough. As for spacers to prevent crushing - would a short length of brass tube that just slips into the bolt holes, and will pass the bolt (obviously) do it ? small bore brass tuning has a pretty thin wall. eg 7mm OD, 0.45mm wall = 6.1mm ID..Not sure how easily it would crush though. Probably only take maybe 3 down each side? How tight is the fit of the holes in the pan over the bolts?
jp 83 S
jp 83 S
07-16-2012, 07:30 AM
#45
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OK,
Looks like a great idea. With some aircraft background, I am planning to drill the bolt heads and use safety wire, similar to aircraft practice.
Not sure when I will get to this, probably this fall. It will be interesting to see which method becomes "best practice"
Dave
Looks like a great idea. With some aircraft background, I am planning to drill the bolt heads and use safety wire, similar to aircraft practice.
Not sure when I will get to this, probably this fall. It will be interesting to see which method becomes "best practice"
Dave