Silicone Rubber Oil Pan Gasket Installed With Tabbed Lock Washers
#16
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Very very nice work. One suggestion, I can't afford a nice Snap-On torque screwdriver, so in my toolbox is a 1/4" drive bicycle spoke torque wrench, beam type, from Park Tool, 0 - 60 inch pounds. Very useful for stuff like this. Great writeup, straight into the permanent file.
#18
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I like what borland is doing, neat idea.
I also agree with Nettles on his thoughts. Too many have been too gun ho when installing the gasket.
Here is one I did 3 years ago that I didn't put the studs in to at the front, just messing around thinking it was easier to put the bolts back in.
My opinion, when you are torquing these things down, when you think you've gone enough, then chances are you've gone too far. Just put a snug fit on them and you are good.
I also agree with Nettles on his thoughts. Too many have been too gun ho when installing the gasket.
Here is one I did 3 years ago that I didn't put the studs in to at the front, just messing around thinking it was easier to put the bolts back in.
My opinion, when you are torquing these things down, when you think you've gone enough, then chances are you've gone too far. Just put a snug fit on them and you are good.
#20
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That's a great idea. If there was some sort of spacer/limiter one could torque the nuts tight enough so that they would not loosen up.
#21
Drifting
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I only went to 15.9% compression, as a conservative measure.
#23
Captain Obvious
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I likeit, it's a very cool idea but I too think that crush sleves are what this gasket really needs. I can;t understand why the manufacturer doesn't want to include it in with the gasket. It can't cost that much.
#24
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Very impressive - I did that repair on my 83, but without the scientific angles that you calculated. You must be an engineer. It is worth the extra effort, because as I have stated previously, its not a job you want to be doing every other year. Curiously, when I bought my car (all original w/42k miles) after paying a dealer in Ft. Wayne for a PPI, but not going to see it in person (note to self - don't ever do that again) I realized oil was leaking from somewhere, and some previous mechanic (I bought it from a 70 something architect - I don't think he worked on the car himself) had obviously thought it was the rear main seal, and filled all the openings in the bell housing with rubber sealant (dum dum?) to prevent the oil from dripping on the ground. So if someone thought the rear main seal was leaking, and wanted to trap it in the bellhousing, then theoretically the bellhousing would eventually fill with oil and put the clutch assembly in a large pool of oil - brilliant!
Ben
Ben
#25
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I thought you could remove red loctited items by heating up the stud, in this case, with a torch and then unscrewing it.
#27
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Borland,
Based on your calculations what would the hight of the spacer be?
I will see what can be done to add it to the gasket set.
Roger
Based on your calculations what would the hight of the spacer be?
I will see what can be done to add it to the gasket set.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#28
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#29
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Looking at his chart I would say the spacer would have to be 2.53 - 2.65 mm. If the bolt holes on the gasket could be expanded a few mm small dowel pins could be inserted into the gasket.
#30
Drifting
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Where you place the shim and how large the shim is will impact on the integrety of the gasket's seal. The block is flat, but the pan has large pockets to eliminate gasket slippage. The shim would need to be larger in diameter than the pan bolt holes.
There are probably other things to consider when designing a gasket compression limiting shim. Probably not worth the effort.