Sharks

I have almost everything disconnected on the 86.5 Auto engine that I am trying to pull, but I can’t get the two upper engine to clutch housing bolts loosened. I have tried long box, socket with breaker bar, lube, heat, … and I have gotten to the point that I can’t get a good hold on the bolts any more. I don’t want to damage the bolt heads any further as I may not be able to get them off later when I do get this thing out.

Would this work?

Instead of disconnecting the bell (clutch housing) from the engine, could I disconnect the bell from the torque tube instead? I know I would have to slide the engine further forward to get it out, but other than that I am not sure if this would work. The drive plate/sleeve should slide forward and off of the shaft. What am I missing here?

nosnow

I just finished doing this twice, swapping engines from an 86.5 to an 86. Those top bolts are a PIA but need to be released, I'm not certain how you would be abl to move the engine forward enough without doing that as you have to move the engine UP to move forward. There is probably a way but I am not aware of it.

As a tip on the motor with good mounts I had to remove the fuel dampners and lines. Once I did that the bolts were a bit more accessible.

Tip: Don't forget the wire harness for the starter and alt it has to be fed through the crossmember or you will be replacing some wires.

BPG_Austin

I think I used 2 wrenches looped together. (19mm bolts IRRC?) and a buddy. One hand held the wrench true to the bolt, the other (myself) turned the upper wrench. I believe its pretty darn tight to get in there. (on an '87 auto) If you've already stripped them.. cold chisel/hammer on one end to break her free? I've done it with starter bolts and some others during a mm/opg job. Might seem kind of ghetto but it worked for me. Replace bolts obviously after they're out. Hopefully someone has a less invasive idea? best of luck, tough spot to be in.

AO

Mine came out just fine. We did use two long wrenches hooked together.

If you can disconnect the BH from the TT, go ahead and try and pull it with the BH attached. If nothing else, It'll give some extra room to get at those bolts.

kccampro

I think I remember pulling a motor with the BH attached... trying hard to remember but I think I was able to do it the way you are proposing.

mark kibort

you need metwrench!!

Sharks

Ok, I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow. I have everything disconnected other than that wire clamp on the driver side cross member. I hope I can feed the wire through when I raise the engine a little.

I tried again tonight to loosen the top two bolts with the fuel dampers removed and no luck, all of my wrenches slip off and I can't apply enough torque. I may have to grind the heads off. I removed everything in front of the engine up to the condenser, so if I can raise it enough, I should be able to pull it forward to get it out. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Mrmerlin

usually the motor mounts will prevent the motor from being moved forward until its lifted just enough to clear the mounts,

Liberal amounts of PB blaster should be applied to the bell/ engine just above the bolts,
the PB will eventually wick into the threads

nosnow

Here is a thread from a 928 guru. There was another thread with pictures of interlocking wrenches, the method I have used successfully several times.... here is one if you have rounded the bolts and some other tips. Maybe someone knows of the piture I am speaking of.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l-success.html

Shark_Week

Mark
you may want to grind your wrenches flat a bit so they get a good bite on the bolt head. i'll grind, heat and bend a cheap wrench to get it right for the job

Mako 928

Are you using a six point wrench?

Koenig928

Yes, you can pull the motor with the bell housing attached - though it's slightly more difficult. As mentioned, you've got to get the motor up and over the motor mount 'hump' first, then slide forward...the bell housing will contact the body above it - just go slow and easy. I used an adjustable leveler from Harbor Frieght on my engine hoist to help tilt the motor for this. Try unbolting the motor mounts from the cross-member as well (in addition to the engine), it might give a little more movement to play with. Good luck.

Big Dave

Mark:

I pulled my engine out with the bell housing attached. If you go that way, put the bell housing back on the torque tube before dropping the engine back in. It will make dropping the engine back in a lot easier than doing it with the bell still attached.

Dave

Sharks

It’s Out!

Thanks for the advice guys. I disconnected the bell housing from the torque tube and pulled the engine out with the bell still attached. It was a very tight fit, but it worked. Even after pulling the motor, I still had to use a 2 foot long breaker bar and a 6 point socket to get the two upper bell housing bolts off. What a pain in the A$$.

What I Learned:

Use the correct tool from the start. I’m heading to Sears to purchase a flex head ratchet before I pull the engine in the manual trans car in a couple weeks. I think if I would have started with the correct tools, I could have applied enough torque to break the bolts loose without destroying the hex. I purchased a set of long handled box end wrenches, but after slipping off with the shorter ones, they didn’t help much.

If you have to pull the engine with the bell attached, remove the alternator first, otherwise you will damage your condenser (the condenser in my donor car was already damaged so this wasn’t an issue). Lift the engine above the motor mounts, and then start tilting the front up like you would if you had a trans attached (adjustable leveler needed for this). Keep an eye on the torque tube shaft and remove the drive plate when you maneuver the engine forward enough. Almost out, now watch out for the metal fuel lines on the dash, they will make contact with the top edge of the bell housing if you are not careful.

If you have to, this method will work. You just have to clear the area between the front of the engine and the condenser (coils, P/S res, cooling fan(s), and alternator). It’s tight, but it will work.

AO

Awesome! Welcome to the engine pulling club. Add 10 points to your man card.