There used to be a gentleman on this message board with user name "malibu310", who had two renegade hybrids. You may want to look him up. He may be able to give you some first-hand input on what worked and what didn't.

 

James, my speculative concerns are effect of stresses in the unibody structure and effect of running higher horsepower on the drivetrain, and the likelihood the car may have been / was thrash-tested and operated. Especially if the orientation is not straight (power train alignment) or if solid mounts are utilized. I agree regarding the engine.

 

Chris,

True, there are lots of variables in there. Considering the pro job T is looking to have install the engine, I was figuring it would be done well and straight and such. I think you have to assume ANY 928 you would buy would have been driven VERY HARD and put up wet more than a few times! Not any of mine of course, but others with less self control! LOL! I think most of the drive train can handle the actual power as long as it is applied just like the original engine would apply it with everything properly squared up and lined up...

 

I don't think the mileage discrepency will be the big issue. It will still be a numbers matching car. I think the bigger problem is that returning it to stock will be decidedly non-trivial. The porsche motor will get pulled, the chevy put in, then the porsche motor reinstalled. But the reinstall will have to undo everything they just did to put the chevy motor in it, and no matter what, it will never be factory original. If that occurs it will just kill the value of the car, regardless of motor.

 

That's an easy fix as I had the same problem on mine, I simply removed the reflective strip and having drained the water from it and ensured that it was 100% dry inside I then sealed it with clear silicon. So far it's held up without any problem which bearing in mind how much rain we have here in the UK and regular washing is pretty good.

 

So If I pull my numbers matching S4 motor for rebuild, and swap in a know good used S4 motor... then accumulate an additional 100K miles of wear, this would not affect value?

 

C'mon Jim... you know as well as I that mileage is not indicative soley of the engine. It also has to do with all the other wear and tear bits too.

 

It will "never" be factory original. I wouldn't be so sure about that.

 

Friend of mine lost two (yes 2) ZO6 engines due to smashed valves from a failed timing chain in his Vette.

 

That's my point, AO. I would assume "true mileage known" would assume the miles of the engine and chassis, and all other bits to be relative, within reason.
Otherwise, it's TMU. Agreed?

If someone lists FS a car with 200K on the odo, with a recently rebuilt motor having <5K... does the car have 200K or 5K?

 

Mileage is recorded on the chassis. If you can document the engine being removed and stored with substantially fewer miles than the chassis, I would perceive that as a plus.

 

GTSM, But I still don't like that big, wide red reflector strip on the rear bumper. I really, really like how Greg & Pauls C's cars look from the back. If you had your choice of buying a GTS with 90,000 miles on the main car, and and only 38,000 miles on the engine, vs a GTS that had 90,000 miles on both the car and the engine, which one would you buy if they were approx the same price and it was all documented? I know what I would do in a mosquito's heartbeat. T

 

Assuming it wasn't, I'd choose the one that wasn't adulterated.

 

Right, but we already know you are not a purist, nor a collector (in the truest sense of the word).

 

Right.. or the one with a most consistent history. A "no stories" car, as collectors say...