dr bob

You can use the fuse buddy if you unplug the main connector to the driver's seat controls. With seat at full height, you can reach under from the rear, follow the cable to the main connector, and unplug it. Then the max non-shorted load will be within the capability of the tool.

Fuse 22 does operate the left seat and the CE panel light. Pull the bulb from the CE panel light and see if the drain goes away. I'll speculate that there's some customer-installed accessory plugged into the wiring there or under the seat, and that's where you see the drain. For instance, with 22 removed, does your aftermarket stereo head unit still work? Built-in radar detector? The installer found a great circuit, 30-amp capable, fused off of the 30 bus, just waiting for another load. Isolate each potential path and you'll quickly figure out what's causing the drain.

tlsmith1999

If you already own a multimeter, I would suggest one of these:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...ties-303b.aspx

I don't know how much you know about electrical trouble shooting, so the below might be too detailed...

Plug it into the offending fuse spot, set the meter for amperage, check the draw, then start trouble shooting until the draw drops.
I would try unplugging the seat motor, if the draw drops, then the short is probably in the motor or cable to the motor. If the draw does not drop, then start tracing the wiring back towards the CE panel. If the short is in the wiring, sometimes it goes away just by moving the wiring, so keep a close eye on the meter. If it does stop drawing, wiggle whatever you just touched and see if you can get it to short again. Somewhere near there is your problem. Check for frays, (where it might have shorted to the body), and any area in the wiring that looks pinched, bent, or melted. Check any connectors for corrosion or evidence of heating.

P.S. It is usually a good idea to wear gloves when looking for a problem in a hot electrical system. BTDT

SteveG

Check the wires that connect at the rear of the seat. Sometimes when removing the seat the mech unhooks the X-pin connector at the front, then forgets or doesn't know there is a line at the rear. They grab the seat and b/c it's heavy they heave it out and waddle away not knowing they separated the wires at the back. I found them not cut, but ripped apart. Now this didn't cause a draw, in my case, but . . . it is worth checking.

Randy Carter

Thanks, guys. I've been out of town so unable to respond. On the way home I stopped by Harbor Freight and got a fuse buddy. It's rated for 30 amps so I should be okay with the suspect fuse.

However, I am not convinced the fuse # 22 is the culprit. I've been having lot's of intermitten function on the red lock button on the dash. I'm wondering if it's the culprit.

I'm going to use the buddy fuse to definitively identify which fuse is drawing down the battery (thanks Danglerb).

It will be sometime tomorrow before I can work on the car again. I'll provide an update at that time.

Thanks to all.

Jim Chambers

Hmm.....I also went to my local HF today but the tester I found was only 20 amp and it says not to use with higher rated fuses. Maybe I should exchange mine. Randy, do you have a stock number for the 30 amp unit you found?

Randy Carter

Item 67724 was the 30 amp unit. I called before going by and the 20 amp item was 67725 and they supposedly had 10 in stock.

We never found the 20 amp item, just the 30 amp. Weird but good result.

Package labeling reads "CEN-TECH 30 amp automotive circuit tester".

danglerb

30 amp at amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Spe.../dp/B000W1X49G

I have the ES that works with a meter, but I plan on picking up both of the HF models, each with its own 20% off coupon.