Ok this should be easy, but I am somewhat new to these cars...

Did a top and timing belt RnR. Too quite a while because of time and access issues, but it is all back together today. Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump to check my oil pressure, but did not get that far.

Turned the key, no crank. There are a few clicks in the relays when I turn on the power, and when I hit the start position, but starter moter does nothing.

I have not checked the power to the starter yet. that is the obvious next thing to do, and I have not tried a direct jump on the starter to see if the motor is good.

I have tried to start in both park and nuteral.

So anyone want to give me advice on how to get this puppy going again. the good news is that it ran before I messed with it. I also have a brand new battery...

thanks -- rr

 

Did you take out the fly wheel lock?

How about swapping the starter relay with the horn relay.

 

usually if the starter wont turn its due to not connecting the 14 pin connector over the hot post.

Also check all of the battery connections

 

Maybe your battery is dead?

 

Well I pulled the starter, and jumped it, nada. so maybe my solonid went. Yes the fly wheel lock is out. Believe it our not that was an "Oh SH*T" moment, but It was not an issue. I checked the 14 pin connector, but I will check the voltage tomorrow. The battery is new.

With the starter out, I am going to have it checked. It was covered in a good bit of old oil, so I had an excuse to clean up. I will also clean the area asl well, and get rid of all that other old oil.

I did discover a collent drip dip too, so now I have even more to do

 

Do you have voltage from battery positive to body?

We have seen a number of ground strap failures lately due to hidden groundstrap corrosion.

 

Yes there is voltage. I did read about the ground straps. I guess that is what happens after age. I know there is a way to test relays. Anyone have a good source document on that.

Also when I went back to checkl on things, My voltmeter is only showing 10 volts, and the red light is on. I missed that at first. So I may have a grounding issue. I know there are some great posts on cleaning grounds, and it is probabally a good thing to do as well. I will post the results of the starter test tomorrow...

thanks for all the help so far.

 

So you checked volts at batt and got 12.5 (b/c it's new) and then checked it at the jump post and got 10?

See post 33 in New Visitor thread.

Do 911s have parasitic drains? The 928 b/c of all the electrical crap love to give it up unless disconnected and b/c few are unmolested, are very picky about having 12.5 and clean grounds.

 

ok here is an update

got the starter checked, passed with flying colors. installed, have 12.5 volts at the starer post. tested the horn, worked. switched the horn and starter relay, horn still worked, starter did not turn over still just a click.

battery is rated a 700 cold cranking amps i was told 650 will do it, i am going to pull one of my good optimas out of the 911, and yes they are also bad about drains..

looked at the oil/volt gauge, volts at 10, oil pinned at 5. so i got an issue somewhere.

all my reading points to checking out the ground points. i will rnr those over the course of the week. i have been checking the volts at various point, and they all test out fine, but this is a 928. i did not see a fuse that could be causing issues. i do have the front of the car on jack stands and the back is on the ground. also wondering about the neutral safety switch...

so going to trouble shoot the grounds and the gauge. again i will take any words of wisdom....

 

Look through this list

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/z0_keep_main.html

Check for the link to starting with bad ignition switch

"Pull relay XIV (or the jumper that is there), plug the jumper switch
between terminals 30 and 87. Turn the ignition switch on, get the car ready
to crank (in neutral) and use the switch on the jumper to activate the starter.

Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
"

You can use test leads to test the relay (switch operation) . IF it fails you can jump the other leads to activate the starter.

If it is this it could be a bad ignition switch

Also service your grounds.

report with results

Good luck

 

The solenoid circuit passes through the 14 pin connector.
So do the oil pressure sensor wires.
And the exciter wire for the alternator.
Cleaning and inspection of each solder point under the covers is needed.

Ground points and starter switch are also suspects, as you guys also mentioned. In this case I'd dial in on the block to frame ground, after 14 pin. Then starter switch.

 

thanks guys. gives me something to do. I will look for a pin out of the 14 pin connector. I have a power probe tool, and I can shoot 12 volts to the solinoid that way. all good advice. If I were only smarter, I would have serviced all the grounds while the top and front were apart. The clearence on some of this stuff is mind boggling to me....

that is a great list of infmation dcrasta. thanks

 

"wondering about the neutral safety switch..."


Try it in neutural rather than park. My safety switch is bad and I have to place mine in "N" in order for it to start.

 

OK first off thanks to all of you who have helped me. Got the engine fired today, but only sort of. I cheated and bought a remote starter push button switch at harbor freight today. So let’s get to the issue.

I checked the relay with the power probe, and I was getting everything to work out, power where it needed to be, switching working so all looked good. I went to the 14 pin connector, again, got juice when key was turned. I went to the terminal end on the solenoid, no juice. Looks like I have a break in the wire near the terminal end. When the wire hangs down and is straight, I get power, when it gets a bend, no power. SO I will be doing some surgery and soldering soon. I am fairly certain the break is near the end, I can feel a squirrely part. I am thinking about putting a pin through the wire to make sure I tap in before the break.

Before I cut into my wire, I tested the voltage at the relay board, and I only got 10.5 volts. So bad grounds abound. I started with the easy one first, and went to the main ground in the back, Rust, crud, just ugly. SO I will get the dremmel tool and clean the crud off the posts. And silly me, I thought Aluminum did not rust….

Like I said, the beast of burden fired up nicely. I did not run the engine for long, but seemed pretty good… Lifters are noisy, need to get those boys lubed up. And my air pump is seized, and looks like my front pulley is hosed…. Looks like I need a bigger torque wrench too. I don’t think I got to 228 ft/lbs on the crank bolt. Mine goes up to 180 ft/lbs, so I did an extra ½ turn. Not good enough. Upon close inspection, everything looks generally OK. Glad I caught that one, looks like I dodged a big mess. Lastly I have one fuel regulator that is leaking gas, so definitely want to fix that. Not sure why, but it is… All the other fuel connections look good so far.

So going to fix the screw ups, get the grounds tuned, and probably do a CE RnR. I am not going to start her up until I have the CE done… Hopefully 12.5 Volts will universally return. Again thanks for all your help. I have two things to read about now. I am sure there will be more questions. Can’t wait to get this beast going. Shooting for spring…

Although I have lots to do, this is a moral vicroty.. Great to hear the engine run. Someone pointed me to the newbie file, and in it I read... We don;t have many mechanical problems, but we have more than our fair share of electrial one.... Guess that sums up my experience...

 

Awesome. You are getting it done. That list link I sent you has some good info. I would look at every link and even print them if you want.

Just take it slow, don't rush it out on the road. After the grounds, and fuel lines, servicing the CE will definitely help 'wake the car up'.

I would also clean the door pins and service the overhead light (there is a problem with them that can cause a short).

Not sure if your Intake RnR included vacuum lines. I have a PipeOrgan so your car is different.

All in all Cheers - Keep up the good work.