My 86 Shark is out of alignment
10-28-2010, 07:55 PM
#1
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My 86 Shark is out of alignment
Can anybody recommend an alignment shop that is proficient in 928's in the Sacramento, CA area (preferably the hwy 50 corridor - Folsom, Rancho Cordova, East Sac) and doesn't charge an arm and a leg? Porsche dealer in Rocklin charges $350 and could not recommend anyone in my area.
10-28-2010, 09:00 PM
#3
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We did here in VA what SeanR did in Texas.
Aligned Sears to align 928's.
They've got the gear.
$69.
(Let me add that I was set to have it done at our local P-Dealer, until the dealer tried to screw Jadz on the Perl car alignment by claiming it was unalignable and needed new eccentrics. Jim had to go and pull the car out of their shop. We had to find another alternative around here for the long term ).
Aligned Sears to align 928's.
They've got the gear.
$69.
(Let me add that I was set to have it done at our local P-Dealer, until the dealer tried to screw Jadz on the Perl car alignment by claiming it was unalignable and needed new eccentrics. Jim had to go and pull the car out of their shop. We had to find another alternative around here for the long term ).
Last edited by Landseer; 10-28-2010 at 09:15 PM.
10-28-2010, 09:37 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Its not needed, really.
We've done two in the last three weeks without it.
Rack pretty much stays put, once you eyeball the indentation/dot to the center of the hole.
The guy puts a tool on the steering wheel to hold it in place.
But its a normal metric bolt, you grind a point on the end, centered. Somebody posted about it here a few weeks ago.
We've done two in the last three weeks without it.
Rack pretty much stays put, once you eyeball the indentation/dot to the center of the hole.
The guy puts a tool on the steering wheel to hold it in place.
But its a normal metric bolt, you grind a point on the end, centered. Somebody posted about it here a few weeks ago.
Last edited by Landseer; 10-28-2010 at 09:54 PM.
10-28-2010, 09:57 PM
#6
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Can anybody recommend an alignment shop that is proficient in 928's in the Sacramento, CA area (preferably the hwy 50 corridor - Folsom, Rancho Cordova, East Sac) and doesn't charge an arm and a leg? Porsche dealer in Rocklin charges $350 and could not recommend anyone in my area.
10-28-2010, 10:15 PM
#7
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Love the guys at CA..but they lost me years ago as a customer.
Prices were out of the sky, and one day I came over during a precious lunch hour to schedule what was then..a 2-3wk lead for an appointment, and was told to come back after lunch.
I did not. There are just as good of options elsewhere without the wait & cost. That N'th of a degree that they might get, wont make me an F1 racer anytime soon.
By all means, their work is good, just..I decided that if they couldnt work within my time, I cant work within theirs.
Prices were out of the sky, and one day I came over during a precious lunch hour to schedule what was then..a 2-3wk lead for an appointment, and was told to come back after lunch.
I did not. There are just as good of options elsewhere without the wait & cost. That N'th of a degree that they might get, wont make me an F1 racer anytime soon.
By all means, their work is good, just..I decided that if they couldnt work within my time, I cant work within theirs.
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10-28-2010, 10:54 PM
#8
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Dennis, I've used Sears with good results. Take along the workshop manual pages covering alignment, talk to the alignment guy and stress that the car cannot be lifted, and all should be good. In fact, I used them just prior to an open road race, explained what I was doing, and asked for extra caster. Got the exact specs I asked for, everything felt solid during the race.
Rich
Rich
10-28-2010, 11:53 PM
#9
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Thanks all for the suggestions. I think I'll give Sears a go, in Citrus Heights off Sunrise, and take my manual along for the lesson. Hopefully the shop guys here are also trainable.
10-28-2010, 11:59 PM
#10
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Tell them they can use a steering wheel lock, but not a brake pedal lock.
(stoplights will burn holes in the inner taillight fixture if they stay on too long)
The only reason they would try to jack up the front is to inspect ball joints / suspension parts. You don't want that, you want them to align what you brung em. Worst case is they void the warranty, no big deal, but you want a group that doesn't whine about that, otherwise find another store.
Low key, get them when they are least busy, like tuesday morning.
Looking for their best alignment guy.
The specs are loaded in the machine already. The caster is somewhat a hassle and is iterative. There might be a sign change on the caster figure built into the machine.
Toughest thing for them / and what you need to bring, is torque values for the rear ( the tow eccentric nuts are 140 ft lbs and its really hard to get onto them without a crows foot 19 socket on a 3/8 torque wrench or something similar. You can always torque them at home yourself.
(stoplights will burn holes in the inner taillight fixture if they stay on too long)
The only reason they would try to jack up the front is to inspect ball joints / suspension parts. You don't want that, you want them to align what you brung em. Worst case is they void the warranty, no big deal, but you want a group that doesn't whine about that, otherwise find another store.
Low key, get them when they are least busy, like tuesday morning.
Looking for their best alignment guy.
The specs are loaded in the machine already. The caster is somewhat a hassle and is iterative. There might be a sign change on the caster figure built into the machine.
Toughest thing for them / and what you need to bring, is torque values for the rear ( the tow eccentric nuts are 140 ft lbs and its really hard to get onto them without a crows foot 19 socket on a 3/8 torque wrench or something similar. You can always torque them at home yourself.
10-29-2010, 12:02 AM
#11
Drifting
here are two links to help you out.
this first one by Earl Gillstrom
http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/928align.html
and the second a video by Andrew Olson (nice shades buddy
)
https://rennlist.com/forums/6390423-post143.html
this first one by Earl Gillstrom
http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/928align.html
and the second a video by Andrew Olson (nice shades buddy
)https://rennlist.com/forums/6390423-post143.html
10-29-2010, 12:08 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Its not needed, really.
We've done two in the last three weeks without it.
Rack pretty much stays put, once you eyeball the indentation/dot to the center of the hole.
The guy puts a tool on the steering wheel to hold it in place.
But its a normal metric bolt, you grind a point on the end, centered. Somebody posted about it here a few weeks ago.
We've done two in the last three weeks without it.
Rack pretty much stays put, once you eyeball the indentation/dot to the center of the hole.
The guy puts a tool on the steering wheel to hold it in place.
But its a normal metric bolt, you grind a point on the end, centered. Somebody posted about it here a few weeks ago.
https://rennlist.com/forums/6991063-post23.html
Unsure what the thread that is still..just sayin.
10-29-2010, 12:14 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Well, you should be able to figure that out, even if you have to jack up the car and run your metric taps in there under the cap on your rack.
Although, I think I have a steering rack on the kitchen counter, unless somebody moved it, guess I could go down there and do it for you.
Although, I think I have a steering rack on the kitchen counter, unless somebody moved it, guess I could go down there and do it for you.
10-29-2010, 12:18 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
Well, you should be able to figure that out, even if you have to jack up the car and run your metric taps in there under the cap on your rack.
Although, I think I have a steering rack on the kitchen counter, unless somebody moved it, guess I could go down there and do it for you.
Although, I think I have a steering rack on the kitchen counter, unless somebody moved it, guess I could go down there and do it for you.
My lack of metric taps, betrays me.
*toolboxfail*
But hey, it'll save a bunch of people $8.00 too.