Does anyone know where I can get a battery tie-down?
#3
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What tie down? not the strange curved bit of tin that doesnt seem to fit anywhere useful? Insulate the top of the positive post, clamp the lid down....
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#4
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That strange curved bit of tin fits fine, and very usefully in mine - the top bolts on to a flange in the battery compartment and the other end presses down on a flange at the base of the battery. A very positive mounting system.
I also insulate the compartment lid on General Principles.
I also insulate the compartment lid on General Principles.
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Installing the battery, the battery drops down in the rear of the well, then slides forward so the little tabs at the bottom front of the battery sit under the bracket that's a permanent part of the battery well. With the battery forward, there's still less than an inch at the rear. The J-shaped hold-down drops down in that space between the rear of the battery and the rera of the battery well. The shape wedges the battery forwar, and the bottom of the bracket holds those bottom tabs down at the rear. A single bolt from the top, through the flange on the J and into the top lip of the well is all it takes to keep everything in its proper place.
The tabs on the battery and the size are specific to the group 48 (49 for early cars) batteries. Other notable features are the lowered terminal posts, the positive terminal cover, and the vent hose nipple from the vapor separator. If you decide to use a more-common lower-cost battery in the group 24/25/74/75 class, you'll find that the factory hold-down doesn't fit the same. The terminals are perilously close to the metal lid, and there's no place to hook up a vent hose. Put a thick layer of neoprene or PE inside the lid and it will help keep the terminals from shorting to the lid. Similary, a spacer block could be used to keep the battery from being damaged from vibration of movement in the well. The right combination might make a somewhat satisfactory installation for casual driving. It still depends on the lid holding the battery down though. Easy job except in an accident.
The tabs on the battery and the size are specific to the group 48 (49 for early cars) batteries. Other notable features are the lowered terminal posts, the positive terminal cover, and the vent hose nipple from the vapor separator. If you decide to use a more-common lower-cost battery in the group 24/25/74/75 class, you'll find that the factory hold-down doesn't fit the same. The terminals are perilously close to the metal lid, and there's no place to hook up a vent hose. Put a thick layer of neoprene or PE inside the lid and it will help keep the terminals from shorting to the lid. Similary, a spacer block could be used to keep the battery from being damaged from vibration of movement in the well. The right combination might make a somewhat satisfactory installation for casual driving. It still depends on the lid holding the battery down though. Easy job except in an accident.
#11
Addict
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Considering that damage/leaks could occur due to loose batter it is definitely a good idea to get a tie down.
#12
Former Vendor
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I had a really good friend, in a coma for 8 weeks, from a battery hitting him in the head....and that battery came from under the front hood of a 911! He was almost back to normal, 2 years later.
#13
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With the battery hold down in place and the right sized battery there's zero movement.
Also confirm that the handle in the tool kit does fit the hex bolt that locks the hold down in place.
An installed pic:
Also confirm that the handle in the tool kit does fit the hex bolt that locks the hold down in place.
An installed pic:
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 10-27-2010 at 09:09 PM. Reason: more info