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stalls when reaching operating temperature

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Old 11-07-2010 | 03:05 PM
  #46  
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No, it doesn't need to be in neutral.

Its not the clamp you are trying to move, right?

You should be taking a tire iron or heavy long screwdrive and prying, alternately, back of flywheel away from block levering against block, then, flywheel towards block levering against upper inside of bell housing.

It doesn't take too much force to do that. And even at low end of spec you should get a clunk/clunk.

If you can keep the car like that a few days it would really make sense to add the pkclamp in my opinion.

Otherwise, like me, you might be worrying about it and pulling it apart every 3 or 4 months to relieve pressure.

A few snapshots would help if you can take them if you still have questions!
Old 11-07-2010 | 04:36 PM
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Well, here are the pics and what I did.

started by prying the as hard as I could foward (towards the engine) and zeroed while prying. Then I pryed as far back as I could tot he tranny (and I am hearing the clank-so I'm doing something right) and I get .39mm while prying as hard as I can. After releasing it settles at .20. I mainly pryed at the area next to the started as it seemed the only I could use without knocking my contraption off. I question the accuracy of this measurement based on the size of the measurement. Just a slight inadvertent repostition of the measuring device while prying in the oposite direction could throw the meaured value off. I did average .36mm while prying to the rear with all my might on one side, so I guess that value could be skewed also. But, once the pressure is released it settles almost everytime back to .2mm. I guess I'm good for now? Will torque to 66lbs and see if the car stalls-if it does again I will try the crank postion sensor.
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Old 11-07-2010 | 04:38 PM
  #48  
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Heres another pic of the setup if anyone was wondering.
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Last edited by CJs 928; 11-07-2010 at 04:39 PM. Reason: picture attachment
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:34 PM
  #49  
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Is the reading I took prying as hard as I could to the rear the one I should be concerned with or where it settles once I let off. As stated above, I get .39mm prying as hard as I can to the rear, then it drops to .2mm (just slightly more with low to moderate pressure, about .25mm). I guess what I'm asking is, does everyone take their end measurement with a lot of prying pressure or mild pressure. Seems silly I know, but I'm kinda worried-the measurement is definetly at the cusp of something crappy.
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:36 PM
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Again, you should not be prying hard at all.
Clunk forward, zero it, clunk back, no pressure, read the dial.

More importantly, is that mag base rigidly mounted? That's key.
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:40 PM
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Got it, thanks. Not trying to be a pain. So clunk forward/clunk back equals about .17mm. Happy day to me.

Thank you for everyones advice.
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:43 PM
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Not quite sure what rigidly mounted means. Its magneticly stuck to the exhaust pipe, and very carefully, I pry in a location away from it. Thats why I was only prying from one side. results were pretty close to the same each time.
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:48 PM
  #53  
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Just read through the thread again-I see what you mean now Chris.

"Checked mine against a Starrett and got same results. I clamp a piece of flat steel to the car as a base platform. (can be clamped with a jack so long as you don't lift the car off the jackstands). I got the digital, plus a magnetic mount not shown."

I did not do that-that would have been better than what I did and would have been less frustrating.
Old 11-07-2010 | 11:53 PM
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Its good news, though, if that reading is accurate! Celebrate that. Good news.
Old 11-08-2010 | 12:14 AM
  #55  
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your reading is in the ballpark,


End play per the WSM with new bearings
NEW .110 to .312mm

MAX wear .40mm

In inches
.004 to .012 in.
Max wear .016 in.

your reporting .20mm, this is a good clearance




JUST to confirm DO NOT disconnect the battery or either of the cables to the battery while the engine is running,
you will fry the alternator and or the regulator and also possibly fry the engine computers

Last edited by Mrmerlin; 11-08-2010 at 01:59 PM.
Old 11-08-2010 | 12:34 AM
  #56  
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Stan, I'm getting roughly the same readings. About 0.17mm to 0.19mm.

What are you reading on ones you measure?



Is .40mm wear an absolute figure or a delta figure?
Old 11-08-2010 | 01:11 AM
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I think i misread the the OPs gauge for some reason it looked like it was .020mm but in fact its .20mm this would make the endplay in the ballpark ,
sorry my bad. I fixed my post.

Chris .40mm is the max that equates to .016in.
On the cars i have been checking been using inches so i have been seeing from .006 to .009 in.
Old 04-02-2013 | 12:58 PM
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Any updates on this issue my 86.5 does the same thing starts from cold, then will stall at correct temp, does not splutter just stops and wont restart till next day (when cold again) fuel pump is whirring when it runs
Old 04-03-2013 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by joedr3dd
Any updates on this issue my 86.5 does the same thing starts from cold, then will stall at correct temp, does not splutter just stops and wont restart till next day (when cold again) fuel pump is whirring when it runs
Joe: I think it was resolved. See posts 28 on, esp 37.



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