Dwayne has an excellent write-up for end play. He doesn't use a dial gauge. You may want to search further here for that. IIRC it is in the WSM.

http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/

 

An analog or digital dial indicator gauge and flexible clamping or magnetic base are inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...dial+indicator
Checked mine against a Starrett and got same results. I clamp a piece of flat steel to the car as a base platform. (can be clamped with a jack so long as you don't lift the car off the jackstands). I got the digital, plus a magnetic mount not shown.

Easy to check, don't delay and worry about it anymore.

If its NOT flexplate, then be patient because the answer will likely be fairly simple.

 

If you haven't done it, the first thing to do is to carefully clean all of the battery connections, especially the medium-sized red wires on the positive terminal.

Not likely to be the only problem, but it needs to be done...

 

Wally, I have not cleaned the red wires to the battery-ever (only the main gnd). I will try that and check voltage. If n/h, I will follow the wires to see if they have any damage.

 

Those (batt +/-) are not the only ones that will bite you. Just a matter of time. A list and diagram in the New Visitor thread, post 33. Add coil/distrib wire plugs.

 

just an update-maybe some promise. I replaced the positive battery hook-up. The original was crimp on and as soon as I gave it a tug the entire bundle came out. I checked voltage at XX 30 and 12.3 VDC was there. New relay installed and I drove it up and down the street a few times and then let it run for about 30 mins at idle-no stalling, no issues. Could it have been that simple. The only other thing T/S for now is the fuel sender (says I am empty even though there is about 6 gallons or more in the tank). Thank you for the advice and I will still continue on with your T/S ideas to see if the other parts have issues.

Thank you again,
Chris

 

A great example of ALWAYS looking at the simple stuff before going after the expensive bits. The improper voltage at the 30 connections was THE indication that something was wrong with the positive connection!!

 

I'm glad that hopefully your making progress and it was something relatively simple. I would however still change the CPS if the connector is disintergrating as this could do to you what mine did to me, leave me with a rapidly dying car in the outside lane of the main road! The symptoms are pretty much the same as you've experienced in that the car died once the temperature got up.

 

Will do 928GTSM. Also fixed the fuel sender (kinda). I cleaned all the bits I could inside the sender and now it registers that there is fuel. It does decide to bounce around a bit when it feels like it. I put some sea foam into the tank, maybe that will finish the exorcism.

 

I bet its nice to know the fixes were simple things, even though a pain in the butt to find! That must be so santisfying... good going!

 

Well, I was thinking; the loose + battery cable may have been the cause of the CE panel to not have the correct voltage, but that should have not caused the car to stall while running. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I should be able to disconnect the battery if the car is running and if the the alternator is in good operation it should keep running. So, since I believe this to be true, I bought the suggested apparatus (magnetic base and digital dial indicator) from harbor freight yesterday and am now seriously attempting the TBF crank end play check. PITA to get the deivce in postition.

So here is the question-I am doing my best to pry the wheel toward the engine and back, but do not hear the clank that previous threads elude to. Does it matter what gear the car is in? I have lots of pcitures of the pry points (pictures make it look easy-not so much for me). I can attempt the forward movement by prying at the clamp, and I see movement, but am I just moving the flex plate? Prior posts state that you should not have to exert to much force, but I am prying with all my might. Thank you in advance for the pointers-BTW I am on my back doing this.

Just in case the main question was missed in my rambling, does it matter what gear the car is in? Currently it is in park.
Chris

 

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss your good luck. It depends which connection at the battery was not good.
a) Was it the + connector to the battery

b) OR the + connector and the secondary cable for the 30 circuit.

If it was the latter, the engine would stop running regardless of power from the alternator. If that connection had not been cleaned for a long time, it could be both connections were not sufficient. A corroded connection has high resistance. The connection heats up, which causes more resistance, until finally the voltage drop across that connection is so high the engine stops running. When the connection cools down, the engine will start and the cycle continues.

 

interesting, so what your saying is, if I disconnect the negative to the battery while the car is running, it will stall? Haven't tried to do this.

Do you know if it matters what gear the car is in while doing the crank end play check?

 

Don't do that test. You can terminally damage the electronics by disconnecting battery.

Yes, dirty ground or loose / dirty positive can cause intermittent stall / loss of power, etc. Heat / moisture / dirt / corrosion make such a connection variable and unpredictable. Seen it.

Doesn't matter what gear. Its an automatic, neutral is good.. Make sure ebrake is on for safety / if on a lift you don't want car to roll. Engine will need to be rotated clockwise to arrange access to driveshaft pinch bolt beneath bell housing. (clockwise when standing in front of car, looking at radiator, for ref.) Rotation can be accomplished from beneath car with a 27 mm (1 1/16 inch) socket on just the right length extension or deep socket. Or, buy levering the flywheel with a srewdriver (dont damage the gear). You do not need to pull the sparkplugs to turn the engine. Its easy enough without doing that.

Might as well have a PKlamp handy for installation when checking endplay, otherwise you will need to repeat. Car must have some auxillary clamp for protection.

(Or a Constantine clamp if you are going to go for the full monte of protection , but you need to drop rear cross member and trans for that / check your play now, install the PKlamp, use a constantine later if doing deeper work).

Like Stan (mr merlin) alway says, take this opportunity to access and check torque / tightness on analogous rear pinch clamp.

 

Was wondering about the PKclamp. I have the pinch bolt off and can move the existing clamp forward, just not hearing the clank indicating movement. I will put the car in neutral and give it my best. Thank you for the input.