Max Jax Car Lift a users review and Group buy opportunity for P-cars will close...
#151
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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#155
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Building , 21x44 installed for $8200 + tax. Pad was $2500
I did get a deal on the pad, as the same supplier was/is delivering my basement floor, walls, patio, and garage / driveway concrete. High bay is 14'...I want the 4 post style lift, so I can have a car up, and still be able to work on another underneath. 1 oops, you can see the pad was short under the right- lean to side...a typo from the mfg. of the building was the cause...gonna fix that when my patio is poured in a few weeks.
I did get a deal on the pad, as the same supplier was/is delivering my basement floor, walls, patio, and garage / driveway concrete. High bay is 14'...I want the 4 post style lift, so I can have a car up, and still be able to work on another underneath. 1 oops, you can see the pad was short under the right- lean to side...a typo from the mfg. of the building was the cause...gonna fix that when my patio is poured in a few weeks.
#156
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#157
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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I acquired a used set of MaxJax and am planning the install. My spare garage was built in 1975, so I assume the floor will support the columns. Floor to rafters is 7". I would like to raise a couple of the cross beams(2 by 8's) to accommodate the maximum height. I was thinking of putting 3 16' 2 by 8's about one foot higher and tying them into the original crossbeams then cutting the beams to create a hole for the lift. The existing crossbeams are 4" apart. So, by moving 3 of them up 6-8" to accommodate typical cars' roof line.
I am not a structural engineer, but I know just enough that I do not want my garage roof to pancake.
Any advise on the proper way to move the rafters up about a foot?
-Kevin
I am not a structural engineer, but I know just enough that I do not want my garage roof to pancake.
Any advise on the proper way to move the rafters up about a foot?
-Kevin
I had two holes cut in the existing (too thin) floor, and two blocks of concrete installed.
Blocks are 600mm wide and start 600mm (2') outside the first post mounting point, and extend to 600 mm past the other post (with the posts at Dr Bob's 135" separation).
Including cutting, trenching, reinforcing steel, concrete, and cleanup it took 4 hours, and cost $800.
#159
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Not sure I've seen that measurement, but I can put mine up all the way tonight and see how tall the top of the 928 is.
#160
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You need to consider how the garage door fits above the car, and also any ceiling lighting over the roof of the car. Inches can get really precious.
You don't state what car you'll be lifting, and no 928s in your signature. For other cars (any car) you can do some tape-measure math. Measure the height of the highest point on the car, and subtract the height at the lift points on the car where the lift pads will contact. Add 48", and you have the absolute minimum ceiling clearance number. You can take 3" out of that if you don't use the included 3" pins. Same considerations for garage door and overhead lighting still apply.
#162
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Herman, I like the cup holder. Can't work without beer. The maxjax looks like a decent piece of equipment. Regarding anchors: having experience with wejits and others you will be better off with cutting off your own threaded rod and using a good quality anchoring cement. Bigger holes of course. I think I have 150 ftlbs on my rotary base anchors.