IcemanG17

The silicon gasket I use on the Estate has LEAKED and LEAKED....the 1st engine had one and it leaked too....we were extra careful with the 2nd one and it leaks like crazy too....the over the winter fix is to go back to a stock cork-neoprene gasket....

worf928

Spring washers plus torque wrench?

Imo000

With engine in car, many of the bolts can not be reached with a torque wrench.

Hilton

Yep - the only reasonably way to do it with engine in is to calibrate your hand on one you can reach to torque correctly, with a wrench. Not great, but worked for me.

I haven't had any leaks at all from my silicone OPG - fitted it 2 years ago now.. although to be fair I did also loctite some studs in, and use M6 nylock nuts which won't back off.

Rob Edwards

Weird- This was one of the early jobs I did on the GT in 2006, in-car, and had no leaks. When I pulled the engine in 2009 I pulled the (dry, clean) pan to do the 2/6 rod bearings, and re-used the silicone gasket. IIRC I did 4 ft lbs of torque on those I could reach, and the same assumometer measurement on those I couldn't. Still dry, no leaks. I'm a fan of the silicone gasket.

karl ruiter

So, I'm thinking my best approach here would be to
1) hoist up the engine a few inches, pull down the pan.
2) do the best I can from underneath to get the flanges totally dry
3) Tighten gently and uniformly using a torque wrench where I can and trying to match with an end wrench where I cannot.
Kinda seems like number 2 might be critical and that once you get oil between the flange and gasket it is gonna leak and keep leaking.

worf928

You ignored the concept of using spring or lock washers.

And you can actually reach most of the bolts with a small torque wrench the engine in the car. Just not the front ones - and they are no easier with the engine out and upside down on a stand.

blown 87

I use a adapter on my 25 in/lb dial torque wrench and can get to every one with ease on a stand.

Eric Vaas

Roger-
I got the gasket from 928Intl. I guess I've over-reacted. After reading this thread, I figure I will just loosen all the bolts, take them out one by one, and reinstall using loctite (the removable kind!) and torque just once. The gasket is new, and shouldn't be damaged yet. This sounds like a lot easier job than taking the whole pan off while the motor is in the car.
Eric

worf928

Yup. My little snap-on with a ground-down 10mm will reach.

blown 87

The one I use is for a Ford Escort T belt.

worf928

blown 87

Pretty much Brother Dave.

SeanR

Don't bother with a torque wrench. Yea, I said that.

Get locktite on the bolts/studs whatever you use, and go "snug". Make sure whatever you use is clean. I watched a buddy of mine use my inch pound torque wrench go to town on one of his and just had to giggle. He had 30ftlbs on it and the gasket was squished out the sides before he asked if that was good on about 5 of them.

No, it wasn't. Once it was backed off, and I used "snug", it hasn't leaked in a bit over a year.

I usually go over it 2-3 times and make sure they are all at the same "snugness". For those that I cant get a 1/4 ratchet on, I use a gear wrench.

GregBBRD

I've tried a couple of these gaskets and had both leak. I simply could not keep the hardware tight. I did do them before Roger/others came up with a stud kit and lock nuts, but since I've never had problems with the stock gaskets, I probably won't go back and try it again.

Quick note about your oil/fuel question. Most people that make silicone intake hoses/pieces specify that you need a different material than silicone for any connection that has both fuel and air, as the silicone is not suitable for this task (it swells when soaked with fuel). So, following that train of thought, it is possible that the material was damaged.