Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder
10-10-2010, 11:26 AM
#1
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Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder
Gonna bleed brakes and clutch next weekend, after the Super Blue arrives.
No problem bleeding top-down, using a power bleeder, right?
If not, do you have a link?
No problem bleeding top-down, using a power bleeder, right?
If not, do you have a link?
Last edited by Erik N; 10-10-2010 at 12:57 PM.
10-10-2010, 12:36 PM
#3
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I just want to replace the fluid. No air in system as far as I know.
I know some have bled off a caliper, in a closed-loop affair. But that mixes the fluid, it doesn't replace it.
I know you can hook up the power bleeder to the slave, and bleed upward, but that makes a mess.
If I bleed from the top down, should I move the clutch pedal while the nipple is open, or is that not necessary?
I know some have bled off a caliper, in a closed-loop affair. But that mixes the fluid, it doesn't replace it.
I know you can hook up the power bleeder to the slave, and bleed upward, but that makes a mess.
If I bleed from the top down, should I move the clutch pedal while the nipple is open, or is that not necessary?
10-10-2010, 12:47 PM
#4
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I replaced the clutch fluid on a GT with a power bleeder. I followed all the regular steps I use for flushing the brakes and just cracked the bleed nipple on the clutch slave. It worked well although I was very careful with the pressure ~10psi.
Edit...........I didn't move the clutch pedal until I finished the flush.
Edit...........I didn't move the clutch pedal until I finished the flush.
10-11-2010, 02:38 AM
#5
Supercharged
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WSM manual proceedure states to pump the clutch pedal while bleeding.
And you might think about putting a clamp on the blue hose where is attaches to ther reservoir... had that pop on me once using the power bleeder.
And you might think about putting a clamp on the blue hose where is attaches to ther reservoir... had that pop on me once using the power bleeder.
10-11-2010, 03:41 AM
#6
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If you're just flushing new fluid through an already air free clutch system a top down flush using a power bleeder will work fine. As AO states it is also worth pressing the pedal while the powerbleeder is connected and the bleed nipple is open. Then close the nipple and let the pedal up very slowly. repeat. Job done.
If you have air in the system - make an adapter to connect the power bleeder to the bleed nipple and reverse bleed it. Once you have the air out then bleed it normally to get the new fluid in.
If you have air in the system - make an adapter to connect the power bleeder to the bleed nipple and reverse bleed it. Once you have the air out then bleed it normally to get the new fluid in.
10-11-2010, 09:53 AM
#7
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If you're just flushing new fluid through an already air free clutch system a top down flush using a power bleeder will work fine. As AO states it is also worth pressing the pedal while the powerbleeder is connected and the bleed nipple is open. Then close the nipple and let the pedal up very slowly. repeat. Job done.
If you have air in the system - make an adapter to connect the power bleeder to the bleed nipple and reverse bleed it. Once you have the air out then bleed it normally to get the new fluid in.
If you have air in the system - make an adapter to connect the power bleeder to the bleed nipple and reverse bleed it. Once you have the air out then bleed it normally to get the new fluid in.
One page 30-2a, the WSM states the proper proceedsure as:
1. Fill tank to upper edge with brake fluid. Remove strainer. Connect [power] bleeder.
2. Turn on [power] bleeder (in our case pump it up) and open bleeder screw on clutch slave cylinder until escaping fluid is without air bubble. Depress clutch pedal several times during this step.
3. If necessary, (air still in system/operating travel too small), unscrew slave cylinder on clutch housing. Press push rod into slave cylinder against stopand release again slowly (bleeder switched off/tank not filled to edge). This will force back any remaining air back into the clutch line or master cylinder tank.
4. Install slave cylinder and repeat bleeding procedures.
NOTE: Never operate clutch pedal as long as slave cylinder is removed.
2. Turn on [power] bleeder (in our case pump it up) and open bleeder screw on clutch slave cylinder until escaping fluid is without air bubble. Depress clutch pedal several times during this step.
3. If necessary, (air still in system/operating travel too small), unscrew slave cylinder on clutch housing. Press push rod into slave cylinder against stopand release again slowly (bleeder switched off/tank not filled to edge). This will force back any remaining air back into the clutch line or master cylinder tank.
4. Install slave cylinder and repeat bleeding procedures.
NOTE: Never operate clutch pedal as long as slave cylinder is removed.
Now, reverse bleeding may help, but I've never had to go to such lengths. YMMV.
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10-11-2010, 03:32 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Hey Erik
Here's a pretty fool proof method. Just borrow Charlotte's turkey baster & suck a little fluid out of the reservoir first & no mess. Thanksgiving is over a month away, plenty of time to wash it out - she'll never know.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--...eature=related
James
Here's a pretty fool proof method. Just borrow Charlotte's turkey baster & suck a little fluid out of the reservoir first & no mess. Thanksgiving is over a month away, plenty of time to wash it out - she'll never know.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--...eature=related
James
Last edited by jheis; 10-11-2010 at 07:53 PM.
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