Ignition Coil Corrosion..and chasing other demons for fun
10-01-2010, 06:07 PM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've used a Dremel with a stiff nylon brush bit to clean minor corrosion off the wire ends and/or ignition coil pins before.
Make sure you get the metal shiny and clean, though. If you can't, then it's time to replace the part.
After cleaning, put a bunch of DeoxIT® (I recommend the 100% D100L) on the metal connection point to keep corrosion at bay.
Make sure you get the metal shiny and clean, though. If you can't, then it's time to replace the part.
After cleaning, put a bunch of DeoxIT® (I recommend the 100% D100L) on the metal connection point to keep corrosion at bay.
10-02-2010, 02:48 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Fiddled with my coils for a few days, then bought a used one from 928Intl and swapped it and troubles gone. Old coil still measured good, no clue on what the issues was, but problem solved.
10-02-2010, 02:54 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And..my water pump week became a water pump fast drip yesterday.
SO..now to work out between about one million posts, which one to get..but I can clearly state, im not payin $1k for a dealer one.
10-02-2010, 03:03 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ater-pump.html
10-02-2010, 11:37 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bought the two new coils..here was the testing on the old ones:
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
10-03-2010, 12:01 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2001
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Mike
84 black
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10-03-2010, 12:12 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Roger Tyson is your friend.
Bought the two new coils..here was the testing on the old ones:
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
Lots of threads here on what you're looking for. The heater valve is a very common failure point. They're not very heat resistant....plan on regular replacement. My experience says every three years. (Assuming it's getting vacuum). Temporary fix can be as simple as a wire tie. However, where you live, you'll want to get it working properly soon.....
Oil pressure issue also common. If it's pegging with power on and the engine not running, it's either the wires, (Check first), or the sender itself. Bit of a PITA to get to and change out, but really not that difficult.
The DeOxit suggestion is a good one. Never heard of the stuff prior to 928 ownership, and swear by it now. Also highly effective in removing errant dash warning lights, especially for air bag systems....
10-03-2010, 12:26 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Spark Plugs
Bought the two new coils..here was the testing on the old ones:
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms
Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms
NOT to spec, which is:
Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms
SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.
Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.
Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.
And, no point in getting fancy with high tech spark plugs....the ones that seem to work the best are the Bosche coppers. I think the part # is 7900.
10-03-2010, 12:52 AM
#29
Team Owner
7900 = WR7DC thats the plug to use
replace the water bridge hoses all of them,
replace the HCV and the short hose its special.
Vacuum testing will probably show one or more of the console pods are leaking if so thats why the HCV wont close,
so fix the leaks then the HCV will operate as advertised.
Swap out the coils make sure the new coil wires are not touching any metal or any other parts as they will soon abrade and fail.
Make sure both of the coils have a thick wire connected to the securing bolt then the other end connects to the head to ground the coil to the head
to test the oil pressure sender just swap the wires if the wire swap doesnt show any changes , OR the sender has a plug on type connector that can only go on one way, then you need a new sender
replace the water bridge hoses all of them,
replace the HCV and the short hose its special.
Vacuum testing will probably show one or more of the console pods are leaking if so thats why the HCV wont close,
so fix the leaks then the HCV will operate as advertised.
Swap out the coils make sure the new coil wires are not touching any metal or any other parts as they will soon abrade and fail.
Make sure both of the coils have a thick wire connected to the securing bolt then the other end connects to the head to ground the coil to the head
to test the oil pressure sender just swap the wires if the wire swap doesnt show any changes , OR the sender has a plug on type connector that can only go on one way, then you need a new sender
