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Ignition Coil Corrosion..and chasing other demons for fun

 
Old 10-01-2010, 02:50 AM
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Speedtoys
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Default Ignition Coil Corrosion..and chasing other demons for fun

Impossible to get a photo..but...

HOW much corrosion in there is 'bad'?

Cant say..ive seen any in any other car ive had, but on the drivers side, there is some in there..its just very very hard to get a clear view, but theres nothing shiny in there if you follow, some white and light brown crust..

Im chasing down an all-rpm ignition miss, might just get me -2- new coils tomorrow, and see what happens.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:38 AM
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jpitman2
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I would guess ANY corrosion there is bad. Any sign of sparks when run in the dark? How old are the plug leads, plugs, caps, rotors?
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:15 AM
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Speedtoys
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No visible sparkin that I can see out in total darkness.

Wires, 1mo old, Beru.


The rest, unknown, and I have all but new coils on-hand for replacement.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:46 AM
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Hilton
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928 coils rarely fail - just give the connector a good scrub with the bristles of a brass wire brush and some contact cleaner. If you want to really be thorough, de-oxit spray is good too - spray in there, leave overnight, and wash out with contact cleaner.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:57 AM
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Jadz928
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Here was mine last spring....


Also, make sure to inspect the in-feed power and grounds for corrosion and tightness.

I notice you have started individual threads of similarly related items, ie clean corrosion, clean grounds, clean connectors....
created a master thread for my car call Jadz928's Perl Blog, and have been using that thread to keep track of maintenance, ask questions, and keep people updated.

I like your threads and enthusiam very much! Just hard to keep track of ya...
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:27 AM
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Landseer
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The wires have spring electrodes.
They need to contact the inside of the coil.
I had to gently bend a set with needlenosed pliers, because they were not making contact.

The plastic cap can be taken off the end of coil for a little better view.
Coils are not that hard to remove and inspect.
Or use a compact mirror and a flashlight.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:09 AM
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Tom in Austin
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I changed my coils this spring and still have the old ones if you'd like them. PM if interested ,,,
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:30 AM
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If you have any corrosion there you need new ones and coil wires.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by blown 87 View Post
If you have any corrosion there you need new ones and coil wires.

The coil wire itself, couldnt be cleaner, as its brand new.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:59 AM
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blown 87
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys View Post
The coil wire itself, couldnt be cleaner, as its brand new.
If you have ever installed it make sure it is REALLY clean before you put it in a new coil.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by blown 87 View Post
If you have ever installed it make sure it is REALLY clean before you put it in a new coil.

I did not install them, PO did after breaking some wires doing a PPI compression check..so -they- carried that $500 tab.

No idea what the old wire looked like.

The feed/ground wires to both, appear well intact.


Just wondering what I have 'round the house right now, that could brush up in there a little.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:26 AM
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Although it has a nice snug boot around it, those connections, both ends, are very prone to corrosion; first place to look.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:38 AM
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I would just replace them. Corrosion is a bad thing. However, coils are simple - they either work or they don't. It wouldn't hurt to clean the corrosion out of them.
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
I would just replace them. Corrosion is a bad thing. However, coils are simple - they either work or they don't. It wouldn't hurt to clean the corrosion out of them.
At close to $100ea, we'll try cleanin first.

BUT...I was able to get emory paper in the drivers side one, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the bore to help rotate it..and its all shiny clean in there now.


Drove to work..

Ya..theres a difference there!!

I hear a whole new whoop-*** under the hood at high RPMs that wasnt there before.

Cant wait to tear down to get to the pass side coil this evening.


..and..can you do the dist caps/rotors with the cam covers in place? I havent looked closely enough, yet.


Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:25 PM
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Yes you can remove the dist caps and rotors with the cam covers in place.

I'd also take the chance to remove the right-side cover and check the timing belt tension while you're at it. Don't trust the belt tension to previous work done.

Also inspect the timing belt warning system while the cover is off - it should attach to a tab on the nose of the tensioner, so that it actually works and warns you of low tension (I've seen cars where this was defeated as the tab had broken, and they'd "fixed" the warning light by grounding the signal wire permanently).


Originally Posted by Speedtoys View Post
At close to $100ea, we'll try cleanin first.

BUT...I was able to get emory paper in the drivers side one, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the bore to help rotate it..and its all shiny clean in there now.


Drove to work..

Ya..theres a difference there!!

I hear a whole new whoop-*** under the hood at high RPMs that wasnt there before.

Cant wait to tear down to get to the pass side coil this evening.


..and..can you do the dist caps/rotors with the cam covers in place? I havent looked closely enough, yet.


Thanks!
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