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-   -   Ignition Coil Corrosion..and chasing other demons for fun (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/594018-ignition-coil-corrosion-and-chasing-other-demons-for-fun.html)

Speedtoys 10-01-2010 02:50 AM

Ignition Coil Corrosion..and chasing other demons for fun
 
Impossible to get a photo..but...

HOW much corrosion in there is 'bad'?

Cant say..ive seen any in any other car ive had, but on the drivers side, there is some in there..its just very very hard to get a clear view, but theres nothing shiny in there if you follow, some white and light brown crust..

Im chasing down an all-rpm ignition miss, might just get me -2- new coils tomorrow, and see what happens.

jpitman2 10-01-2010 03:38 AM

I would guess ANY corrosion there is bad. Any sign of sparks when run in the dark? How old are the plug leads, plugs, caps, rotors?
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

Speedtoys 10-01-2010 04:15 AM

No visible sparkin that I can see out in total darkness.

Wires, 1mo old, Beru.


The rest, unknown, and I have all but new coils on-hand for replacement.

Hilton 10-01-2010 06:46 AM

928 coils rarely fail - just give the connector a good scrub with the bristles of a brass wire brush and some contact cleaner. If you want to really be thorough, de-oxit spray is good too - spray in there, leave overnight, and wash out with contact cleaner.

Jadz928 10-01-2010 06:57 AM

Here was mine last spring....
https://rennlist.com/forums/members/...il-contact.jpg

Also, make sure to inspect the in-feed power and grounds for corrosion and tightness.

I notice you have started individual threads of similarly related items, ie clean corrosion, clean grounds, clean connectors....
created a master thread for my car call Jadz928's Perl Blog, and have been using that thread to keep track of maintenance, ask questions, and keep people updated.

I like your threads and enthusiam very much! Just hard to keep track of ya... ;)

Landseer 10-01-2010 08:27 AM

The wires have spring electrodes.
They need to contact the inside of the coil.
I had to gently bend a set with needlenosed pliers, because they were not making contact.

The plastic cap can be taken off the end of coil for a little better view.
Coils are not that hard to remove and inspect.
Or use a compact mirror and a flashlight.

Tom in Austin 10-01-2010 10:09 AM

I changed my coils this spring and still have the old ones if you'd like them. PM if interested ,,,

blown 87 10-01-2010 10:30 AM

If you have any corrosion there you need new ones and coil wires.

Speedtoys 10-01-2010 10:35 AM


Originally Posted by blown 87 (Post 7939840)
If you have any corrosion there you need new ones and coil wires.


The coil wire itself, couldnt be cleaner, as its brand new.

blown 87 10-01-2010 10:59 AM


Originally Posted by Speedtoys (Post 7939852)
The coil wire itself, couldnt be cleaner, as its brand new.

If you have ever installed it make sure it is REALLY clean before you put it in a new coil.

Speedtoys 10-01-2010 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by blown 87 (Post 7939916)
If you have ever installed it make sure it is REALLY clean before you put it in a new coil.


I did not install them, PO did after breaking some wires doing a PPI compression check..so -they- carried that $500 tab.

No idea what the old wire looked like.

The feed/ground wires to both, appear well intact.


Just wondering what I have 'round the house right now, that could brush up in there a little. ;)

SteveG 10-01-2010 11:26 AM

Although it has a nice snug boot around it, those connections, both ends, are very prone to corrosion; first place to look.

Mongo 10-01-2010 11:38 AM

I would just replace them. Corrosion is a bad thing. However, coils are simple - they either work or they don't. It wouldn't hurt to clean the corrosion out of them.

Speedtoys 10-01-2010 05:02 PM


Originally Posted by Mongo (Post 7940024)
I would just replace them. Corrosion is a bad thing. However, coils are simple - they either work or they don't. It wouldn't hurt to clean the corrosion out of them.

At close to $100ea, we'll try cleanin first.

BUT...I was able to get emory paper in the drivers side one, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the bore to help rotate it..and its all shiny clean in there now.


Drove to work..

Ya..theres a difference there!!

I hear a whole new whoop-ass under the hood at high RPMs that wasnt there before.

Cant wait to tear down to get to the pass side coil this evening.


..and..can you do the dist caps/rotors with the cam covers in place? I havent looked closely enough, yet.


Thanks!

Hilton 10-01-2010 05:25 PM

Yes you can remove the dist caps and rotors with the cam covers in place.

I'd also take the chance to remove the right-side cover and check the timing belt tension while you're at it. Don't trust the belt tension to previous work done.

Also inspect the timing belt warning system while the cover is off - it should attach to a tab on the nose of the tensioner, so that it actually works and warns you of low tension (I've seen cars where this was defeated as the tab had broken, and they'd "fixed" the warning light by grounding the signal wire permanently).



Originally Posted by Speedtoys (Post 7940842)
At close to $100ea, we'll try cleanin first.

BUT...I was able to get emory paper in the drivers side one, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the bore to help rotate it..and its all shiny clean in there now.


Drove to work..

Ya..theres a difference there!!

I hear a whole new whoop-ass under the hood at high RPMs that wasnt there before.

Cant wait to tear down to get to the pass side coil this evening.


..and..can you do the dist caps/rotors with the cam covers in place? I havent looked closely enough, yet.


Thanks!



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