trans issues in east tennessee
#16
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Don't forget the folks at 928 Specialists for advice & parts... just over the border from you in Spruce Pine, NC...
#17
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Getting the ball cup unit unscrewed from the rod was hard for me. Needed some little pipe wrenches and some contortions.
I've got some strong ties to tricities, but unfortunately won't get back for Xmas this year -- otherwise I'd help you with it.
I've got some strong ties to tricities, but unfortunately won't get back for Xmas this year -- otherwise I'd help you with it.
#18
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Getting the ball cup unit unscrewed from the rod was hard for me. Needed some little pipe wrenches and some contortions.
my car mechanics tai chi is a lil rusty but usually polishes up kinda quick had to learn a whole new style workin with my m3 and this job doesnt look nearly as tight as some of the stuff ive done with it so..... hopefully all will be well
I've got some strong ties to tricities, but unfortunately won't get back for Xmas this year -- otherwise I'd help you with it.
my car mechanics tai chi is a lil rusty but usually polishes up kinda quick had to learn a whole new style workin with my m3 and this job doesnt look nearly as tight as some of the stuff ive done with it so..... hopefully all will be well
I've got some strong ties to tricities, but unfortunately won't get back for Xmas this year -- otherwise I'd help you with it.
#19
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ok guys started the job but im running into some issues. the 928 motorsports shifter ball cup wont stay tight on the ball. and i cant get it to go into 1st 3rd or 5th gear. because the shifter rods are hitting each other at the shifter. ive tried everything i can think of and cant seem to make it work.
#20
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Can you slip a camera up in there and get some pictures?
Buy the stock 928 parts from 928 Intl or 928sRus or 928Specialists/
Be very wary of the race stiff, most of it doesn't fit.
Regarding interior, no worries, you are just like me, rescuing the cars.
Cosmetics later, or not at all.
Running that V8 in those hills, you won't care about interior.
Buy the stock 928 parts from 928 Intl or 928sRus or 928Specialists/
Be very wary of the race stiff, most of it doesn't fit.
Regarding interior, no worries, you are just like me, rescuing the cars.
Cosmetics later, or not at all.
Running that V8 in those hills, you won't care about interior.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-24-2011 at 03:57 AM.
#21
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ok guys started the job but im running into some issues. the 928 motorsports shifter ball cup wont stay tight on the ball. and i cant get it to go into 1st 3rd or 5th gear. because the shifter rods are hitting each other at the shifter. ive tried everything i can think of and cant seem to make it work.
The 1st 3rd or 5th gear thing reads to me like you may need to push the rear connecting rod farther onto the coupler splines. Put it in 2nd gear, loosen the rear coupler and push it backward as far as it can go, then retighten.
When in 2nd, is the lever nearer vertical or reasonably forward?
#22
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The rear coupler is where you adjust the fore/aft position of the shift lever. It has to be near the correct position before it will work at all, but you can move the shift **** fore/aft a little to suit your arm length.
The forward cup has to be adjusted so that the shift lever will move full travel left/right without binding the cup.
The forward cup has to be adjusted so that the shift lever will move full travel left/right without binding the cup.
#23
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i can try to get some pix the shift rod is butted right up to the coupler in the rear. theres barely any play front to back. and yes when its in second its standing straight up and yes shifter moves to the left and the right with no issues its just amazing me how it worked better broken than fixed
#24
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First - I had a brain fart. The fore/aft travel is adjusted at the front ball cup, not at the rear coupler.
When the lever is adjusted correctly, it leans to the rear 2.5 degrees - it doesn't stand straight up. It is important that the front cup be adjusted correctly. The fore/aft position must be correct, and the cap must be centered on the ball with the lever lightly pressed against the first/reverse lock-out spring loading.
Unfortunately, you have to take the cup off of the ball to adjust it, so this could turn into a real pain to do...
When the lever is adjusted correctly, it leans to the rear 2.5 degrees - it doesn't stand straight up. It is important that the front cup be adjusted correctly. The fore/aft position must be correct, and the cap must be centered on the ball with the lever lightly pressed against the first/reverse lock-out spring loading.
Unfortunately, you have to take the cup off of the ball to adjust it, so this could turn into a real pain to do...
#25
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First - I had a brain fart. The fore/aft travel is adjusted at the front ball cup, not at the rear coupler.
When the lever is adjusted correctly, it leans to the rear 2.5 degrees - it doesn't stand straight up. It is important that the front cup be adjusted correctly. The fore/aft position must be correct, and the cap must be centered on the ball with the lever lightly pressed against the first/reverse lock-out spring loading.
Unfortunately, you have to take the cup off of the ball to adjust it, so this could turn into a real pain to do...
When the lever is adjusted correctly, it leans to the rear 2.5 degrees - it doesn't stand straight up. It is important that the front cup be adjusted correctly. The fore/aft position must be correct, and the cap must be centered on the ball with the lever lightly pressed against the first/reverse lock-out spring loading.
Unfortunately, you have to take the cup off of the ball to adjust it, so this could turn into a real pain to do...
After his last post, I was stumped... couldn't figure out why the 2nd was near vertical, with the coupler all the way in.
#26
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the front ball cup has less than a quarter inch of threads showing. which is way less than worn ball cup had showing. and i was gonna try to put the old one back on but i cant seem to get this new one off ill give it another go see if i can adjust all the slack out of the front ball cup. hopefully it pulls the shifter far enough forward
#27
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the front ball cup has less than a quarter inch of threads showing. which is way less than worn ball cup had showing. and i was gonna try to put the old one back on but i cant seem to get this new one off ill give it another go see if i can adjust all the slack out of the front ball cup. hopefully it pulls the shifter far enough forward
#28
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well i pulled the new "precision" ball cup threw the old one back on with its ragged out coat hanger fix guess whos driving a 928 lol. hopefully carl will take this thing back cause it didnt work worth a damn in my car
#29
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I have Carl's cup on my '79 and it works great for me, however getting it installed correctly was very difficult, even with the motor out of the car. Roger has a solution the gets rid of the whole front shaft all together. I would go that way, I think.
As a suggestion: Sometimes it seems Carl is less a parts vendor than a racer that happens to sell some of the parts he makes for himself. If you approach him with a problem like this as you would an officer, show respect and salute sharply you have the best chance of getting satisfaction on your issue. If you **** him off you might well get squat.
As a suggestion: Sometimes it seems Carl is less a parts vendor than a racer that happens to sell some of the parts he makes for himself. If you approach him with a problem like this as you would an officer, show respect and salute sharply you have the best chance of getting satisfaction on your issue. If you **** him off you might well get squat.
#30
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thank you for the advice i did inform him of exactly what was going on with my car with his part installed and i was polite i believe. so lets hope all works out because i dont have a disposable income. and on my long test drive yesterday i think i may have blown a head gasket this just keeps getting better and better hahaha.