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Old 09-07-2010, 06:07 PM
  #61  
Carl Fausett
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Carl, I thought your Pikes car was a 16v?
It was. The 16v engine came out after I put a rock thru the oil pan at Road Atlanta this February. I am rebuilding it. So now the car sports this 6.54L 32v motor.
Old 09-07-2010, 06:51 PM
  #62  
Fabio421
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Carl, is the dyno you posted corrected to show theoretical BHP or is it RWHP?
Old 09-07-2010, 08:15 PM
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you need to get that rear bumper cut up with some holes, if you car ANYTHING about aero. that back bumper area is like a BIG parachute. all you need to do is vent the bumper where the license plate area is. very very easy and extremely effective.
Old 09-07-2010, 10:28 PM
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Hilton
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
you need to get that rear bumper cut up with some holes, if you car ANYTHING about aero. that back bumper area is like a BIG parachute. all you need to do is vent the bumper where the license plate area is. very very easy and extremely effective.
Given he's planning on 230+ mph, I expect the whole underneath of the car is flat, including up to the edge of the rear bumper.
Old 09-07-2010, 11:02 PM
  #65  
Carl Fausett
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Carl, is the dyno you posted corrected to show theoretical BHP or is it RWHP?
Fabio, there is nothing theoretical about that dyno chart. That is my actual dyno chart, and because it is a chassis dyno, you can know that it is RWHP.

Divide by .85 to get actual engine HP. Add another 5 to 10% if you want to adjust from a eddy-current dyno (which it was) to an inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet).

I would have gotten bigger numbers on a inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet) but I like the eddy-current dyno's for holding a load at a given speed for tuning.

Last edited by Carl Fausett; 01-26-2012 at 09:25 AM.
Old 09-07-2010, 11:26 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Fabio, there is nothing theoretical about that dyno chart. That is my actual dyno chart, and because it is a chassis dyno, you can know that it is RWHP.

Divide by .85 to get actual engine HP. Add another 5 to 10% if you want to adjust from a eddy-current dyno (which it was) to an inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet).

I would have gotten bigger numbers on a inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet) but I like the inertial drum dyno's for holding a load at a given speed for tuning.
Don't take the word theoretical wrong. It wasn't meant as an insult. I asked you to clarify because you often post dynos of your SC kits that are not showing RWHP but instead show an estimate of crank HP.
Old 09-08-2010, 12:46 AM
  #67  
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You had me at "chassis dyno" Now, dont start going off on the eddy curren dynos (brake dynos) because power is power and there are no more losses from one to the other. Personally, ive been on both several times. and have seen less than 5hp variance between them, and that could have been do to something else. i dont think anyone but the folks at devek had more runs on a dynojet than I did with no changes over the years. 320 on the dynojet and shortly thereafter, 317 baseline on the mustang, and 319 with the dual throttle body intake mod. .

that .85 is variable, and is really at the top end of the rpm range. 20hp in drive train losses alone go to less than 10hp at the beginning of a 3k to 6krpm run.

Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Fabio, there is nothing theoretical about that dyno chart. That is my actual dyno chart, and because it is a chassis dyno, you can know that it is RWHP.

Divide by .85 to get actual engine HP. Add another 5 to 10% if you want to adjust from a eddy-current dyno (which it was) to an inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet).

I would have gotten bigger numbers on a inertial drum dyno (like a Dynojet) but I like the inertial drum dyno's for holding a load at a given speed for tuning.
Old 09-08-2010, 12:47 AM
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If that is true, then nevermind.

Originally Posted by Hilton
Given he's planning on 230+ mph, I expect the whole underneath of the car is flat, including up to the edge of the rear bumper.
Old 09-08-2010, 11:00 AM
  #69  
Carl Fausett
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I asked you to clarify because you often post dynos of your SC kits that are not showing RWHP but instead show an estimate of crank HP.
I usually show both RWHP and CHP. That way whoever wants what number can have it.

There are still those (myself included) who want to know the improvement over stock HP, and for that you have to go to CHP to compare. Porsche never published RWHP numbers.

Not meaning to generate the usual "which HP numbers are most useful" conversation here. I just publish both crank and wheel and leave it at that. In this thread, I just published RWHP right from the dyno, and let you guys figure it out :-)
Old 09-08-2010, 03:13 PM
  #70  
karl ruiter
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Carl, any update on the damage and repair? Is it gonna have to come all apart to replace all the valve springs?
Old 09-08-2010, 04:30 PM
  #71  
Carl Fausett
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Karl,

I made the decision when building the motor to use heads studs and not head bolts. I wanted the extra clamping force that the studs provide, knowing full well that if I needed later to remove the heads for any reason, the engine would have to come out of the car to do so.

So thats what we are doing now - pulling the engine.
Old 09-08-2010, 04:35 PM
  #72  
Carl Fausett
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Default Pics in Bonneville Trim

The weatherman delivered, and today is bright and sunny.

I rolled the car out of the shop to grab these photos for you of the car in Bonneville Land Speed trim.

It sorely needs a paint job, and that was the next thing we were going to do after the dyno. Also the front and back are higher than the way it will be running at Bonneville. We raised it for going in and out of the building and trailer.

Once out of the trailer, we lower it to where it is on the deck.
Attached Images          
Old 09-08-2010, 04:58 PM
  #73  
Jadz928
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Holy Macho 928!

Is the lever on the tunnel to operate the rear spoiler?
Old 09-08-2010, 05:10 PM
  #74  
Carl Fausett
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The lever on the tunnel to the right of the gearshift releases the parachute.

One of two fire bottles is shown... there is 10 pounds for the engine and fuel cell, and an extra and separate 5 pound system for the driver. Thats why yoiu see two fire pulls next to the gearshift.

There are more photos of the "Bonneville Build" here:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/928-Mo...3156459?ref=ts

If you subscribe to our Facebook account, you will get news feeds and updates on the progress of the car.
Old 09-08-2010, 05:36 PM
  #75  
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You should "rattle-can" it red just like the factory did


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