paint questions
09-03-2010, 01:58 PM
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paint questions
I just had my car proffesionly waxed etc plus the interior detailed.
When I picked up the car it was overcast and sitting in my garage the car looks spectacular and the finish is smoother than anything I have ever felt before.
My question is, today my first real sunny day I have had the car out, if the sun hits the car on certain angles it looks like the car has a ton of swirl marks....these aren't noticeable at all except in this situation.
Does anyone have any idea what this might be, I don't remember it having this before but the car has also never shined like this before.
Any suggestions?
When I picked up the car it was overcast and sitting in my garage the car looks spectacular and the finish is smoother than anything I have ever felt before.
My question is, today my first real sunny day I have had the car out, if the sun hits the car on certain angles it looks like the car has a ton of swirl marks....these aren't noticeable at all except in this situation.
Does anyone have any idea what this might be, I don't remember it having this before but the car has also never shined like this before.
Any suggestions?
09-03-2010, 02:16 PM
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Sounds like the guy who did the work didn't know what they were doing. Typically a "detailer" that doesn't know what they're doing will buff the paint, glaze it and wax it or they use a wax which contains fillers. The purposes of the glaze or wax with fillers is to hide the swirls that they have created in the paint. When the car gets washed and as the oils/fillers wash away the swirls come back.
The swirls are actually damage to the paint because they didn't use the correct pad/product or they didn't perform enough steps to do the job right. Honestly when I see work like this I wonder how these people survive. No one in their right mind should be paying someone to damage the finish on their cars a second time right?
I would ask for your money back and find someone who knows what they're doing. Expect to a decent amount for profession results.
Or better yet do it yourself, it really isn't that difficult.
The swirls are actually damage to the paint because they didn't use the correct pad/product or they didn't perform enough steps to do the job right. Honestly when I see work like this I wonder how these people survive. No one in their right mind should be paying someone to damage the finish on their cars a second time right?
I would ask for your money back and find someone who knows what they're doing. Expect to a decent amount for profession results.
Or better yet do it yourself, it really isn't that difficult.
09-03-2010, 02:21 PM
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I don't want to do it myself, that is why I took it to a so-called professional. And I did pay top dollar which is fine...if the quality matches.
I do wax the car myself to start and finish the year, I just wanted an extremely good proffesional job and this is what I got. NOT!
I guess I will go show the idiots what they did.
I do wax the car myself to start and finish the year, I just wanted an extremely good proffesional job and this is what I got. NOT!
I guess I will go show the idiots what they did.
09-03-2010, 06:34 PM
#6
Marine Blue is correct, however, what is top dollar and what was the condition of your paint before you took it in? Read what I am saying carefully before you go and give someone a piece of your mind.
let's assume the condition of the paint was average to good, that condition is not dependent on chips and dents, it is the condition of the gloss level of the paint. This changes from the time the car was sprayed. When it is painted it has no scratches. After the first wash it will have many very very fine scratches that cannot be seen on an individual basis. However everybody can tell when they see a new cars paintwork. That is the reason for the differing gloss levels apart from dirt on the surface.
So to get your old paint up to speed you need to cut down the surface and remove caked on dirt/pollution particles and cut down the paint to remove the micro scratches. How do you do this? Well you scratch it some more but with compound which does it in a controlled way. It is controlled by the abrasive particles in the compound. How aggressive they are gives your grade of compound.
So for quick results, you cut the surface down with course compound and then use a polish with fillers and vola, nice shiny car!
Until as Marine Blue says you wash it etc.
So what is really needed is to keep progressing down the grades of compound till you get to ultra fine and then you stop using compound and then use the burnishing finishing liquids with super soft sponges. People used to use flour for this stage.
So basically you are just scratching the paint less and less. It will still be scratched but you wont be able to see it. This is why when you was the car you need to be very careful about the dirt on the surface and how you remove it. Never use a dirty cloth or sponge, keep the as clean as possible.
How long does this job take? Well I would say all day at least, I spent 3 days with various breaks
after my car was painted 2 or 3 years down the track and that bought it back to new. When you put the car in the fluero light in your garage you will see all this scratching, some will be from previous and some will be from the detailer.
So unless you have paid hundreds of dollars I don't think you can complain too much. When the bonnet on my Porsche got damaged by the incorrect compound. Wasn't marked on the container, the panel beater (Porsche approved) wanted $500 to cut and buff that panel, so the whole car has to be expensive.
Greg
let's assume the condition of the paint was average to good, that condition is not dependent on chips and dents, it is the condition of the gloss level of the paint. This changes from the time the car was sprayed. When it is painted it has no scratches. After the first wash it will have many very very fine scratches that cannot be seen on an individual basis. However everybody can tell when they see a new cars paintwork. That is the reason for the differing gloss levels apart from dirt on the surface.
So to get your old paint up to speed you need to cut down the surface and remove caked on dirt/pollution particles and cut down the paint to remove the micro scratches. How do you do this? Well you scratch it some more but with compound which does it in a controlled way. It is controlled by the abrasive particles in the compound. How aggressive they are gives your grade of compound.
So for quick results, you cut the surface down with course compound and then use a polish with fillers and vola, nice shiny car!
Until as Marine Blue says you wash it etc. So what is really needed is to keep progressing down the grades of compound till you get to ultra fine and then you stop using compound and then use the burnishing finishing liquids with super soft sponges. People used to use flour for this stage.
So basically you are just scratching the paint less and less. It will still be scratched but you wont be able to see it. This is why when you was the car you need to be very careful about the dirt on the surface and how you remove it. Never use a dirty cloth or sponge, keep the as clean as possible.
How long does this job take? Well I would say all day at least, I spent 3 days with various breaks
after my car was painted 2 or 3 years down the track and that bought it back to new. When you put the car in the fluero light in your garage you will see all this scratching, some will be from previous and some will be from the detailer. So unless you have paid hundreds of dollars I don't think you can complain too much. When the bonnet on my Porsche got damaged by the incorrect compound. Wasn't marked on the container, the panel beater (Porsche approved) wanted $500 to cut and buff that panel, so the whole car has to be expensive.
Greg
09-03-2010, 07:08 PM
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oh I paid hundreds, but that's OK. I went and got my money back. Went to my body guy, he will fix it up when he paints my spolier guards red this fall.
Want the GTS look without the huge fenders. LOL
Want the GTS look without the huge fenders. LOL
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09-03-2010, 07:50 PM
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It's a multiple step process which IMHO takes two solid days to do just the exterior of a car. Do a search under my screen name, I've posted several DIY on this subject.
Greg is right, the person who did the job didn't finish it. They should have performed one or two additional polishing steps to help remove the swirls they left behind. Or maybe they didn't have a clue what they were doing which is why they refunded your money.
Guards red is stunning when properly polished. Get it done right and it will look like the paint is ready to drip off the car.
Marine Blue is correct, however, what is top dollar and what was the condition of your paint before you took it in? Read what I am saying carefully before you go and give someone a piece of your mind.
let's assume the condition of the paint was average to good, that condition is not dependent on chips and dents, it is the condition of the gloss level of the paint. This changes from the time the car was sprayed. When it is painted it has no scratches. After the first wash it will have many very very fine scratches that cannot be seen on an individual basis. However everybody can tell when they see a new cars paintwork. That is the reason for the differing gloss levels apart from dirt on the surface.
So to get your old paint up to speed you need to cut down the surface and remove caked on dirt/pollution particles and cut down the paint to remove the micro scratches. How do you do this? Well you scratch it some more but with compound which does it in a controlled way. It is controlled by the abrasive particles in the compound. How aggressive they are gives your grade of compound.
So for quick results, you cut the surface down with course compound and then use a polish with fillers and vola, nice shiny car! Until as Marine Blue says you wash it etc.
So what is really needed is to keep progressing down the grades of compound till you get to ultra fine and then you stop using compound and then use the burnishing finishing liquids with super soft sponges. People used to use flour for this stage.
So basically you are just scratching the paint less and less. It will still be scratched but you wont be able to see it. This is why when you was the car you need to be very careful about the dirt on the surface and how you remove it. Never use a dirty cloth or sponge, keep the as clean as possible.
Greg
let's assume the condition of the paint was average to good, that condition is not dependent on chips and dents, it is the condition of the gloss level of the paint. This changes from the time the car was sprayed. When it is painted it has no scratches. After the first wash it will have many very very fine scratches that cannot be seen on an individual basis. However everybody can tell when they see a new cars paintwork. That is the reason for the differing gloss levels apart from dirt on the surface.
So to get your old paint up to speed you need to cut down the surface and remove caked on dirt/pollution particles and cut down the paint to remove the micro scratches. How do you do this? Well you scratch it some more but with compound which does it in a controlled way. It is controlled by the abrasive particles in the compound. How aggressive they are gives your grade of compound.
So for quick results, you cut the surface down with course compound and then use a polish with fillers and vola, nice shiny car!
Until as Marine Blue says you wash it etc. So what is really needed is to keep progressing down the grades of compound till you get to ultra fine and then you stop using compound and then use the burnishing finishing liquids with super soft sponges. People used to use flour for this stage.
So basically you are just scratching the paint less and less. It will still be scratched but you wont be able to see it. This is why when you was the car you need to be very careful about the dirt on the surface and how you remove it. Never use a dirty cloth or sponge, keep the as clean as possible.
Greg
Guards red is stunning when properly polished. Get it done right and it will look like the paint is ready to drip off the car.
09-03-2010, 10:23 PM
#9
The swirl marks are form a compounding pad going in a circular direction. If the guy had then used a finer compound and even a finer compounding pad it would have decreased the marks. If he had used the finest compound available and a fine polishing pad it would have been hardly noticable.
This is probibly how he is going to try to fix it next time.
But the way to eliminate it altogather is to finally use a orbital buffer, with polishing compound.
The orbital makes a random pattern and removes the round circles that are left by circular spinning pads.
This is how to get a perfect finish and this is why a $49 orbital polisher is better for the amature home wax job than a professional buffer. They were meant for a professional body man to compound down paint to a smooth finish. Not for a polished clear finish. Or a wax job.
This is probibly how he is going to try to fix it next time.
But the way to eliminate it altogather is to finally use a orbital buffer, with polishing compound.
The orbital makes a random pattern and removes the round circles that are left by circular spinning pads.
This is how to get a perfect finish and this is why a $49 orbital polisher is better for the amature home wax job than a professional buffer. They were meant for a professional body man to compound down paint to a smooth finish. Not for a polished clear finish. Or a wax job.