My last visit to my mechanic he told me my '87 S4 needs new c/v joints. Parts and labor quote was close to $400. Has anyone done this work DIY? Tools needed, degree of difficulty?
Any input would be appreciated.

Randy S.
1987 S4 Automatic
Diamantblau

 

I recently did this on my 79 which had one old style and one new style half shaft. This was the first time I did the job and it is messy but an easy DIY task. Kits are $15 to$20 each (two per axle) so a big savings for DIY. Easily doable in a day with all the right parts. I used simple green full strengh per some other posts and it worked great with no disposal concerns as it bio degrades the grease.

Your car should be less messy because the newer style half shaft kits have end caps so there is no open end with exposed grease to ooze everywhere while reinstalling.

Check out these two great posts and you should be fine. Dwayne's write up should be very similar to what your config should look like with the possible exception of ABS I believe (seems there is an extra spline at outboard end for ABS cars and not sure what level of complexity that might add).

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/boot.htm

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...ftsRematch.htm

 

First, I would make sure whether the metal parts actually need replacing, or if only the boots and lubricant need replacing. Either is a (very, very) messy, but doable DIY project. If the joints actually need replacing, check with Mark Anderson for good used units.

 

Randy. I just did this job. It is messy but you can do it yourself pretty easily. A couple things I learned were. Get a total of 20+" of 3/8 drive extension and take the hex bolts out with the rear wheel off. Don't use an allen key from under the car. Just go in the side after you remove the wheel. Make sure the hex key is firmly seated in the socket before you try to turn. They aren't in there very tight, but you don't want to strip it. Use a 3' piece of pipe on the end of a breaker bar to get the wheel nut loose. Turns really easily. I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket because I broke my 1/2" breaker trying to generate 320 foot pounds. If you don't have a torque wrench that goes to 320 foot pounds, just put a jack stand under the fulcrum point of the breaker bar, figure out how far you have to stand on the end of the pipe to make you weigh 320 pounds stand there. When it doesn't move anymore when standing at this point you have close to your torque number.
To keep the axle from turning when you take out your hex nuts holding the axle to the tranny, put a large screwdriver in the slots of your rotor and let it brace against the caliper. Beats the crap out of gettting up and down to lock the parking brake. Unless you like doing tons of abs work your abs will thank you for that one.

 

I was thinking that $400 was suspiciously cheap for CV joint replacement. Not bad for just replacing the boots. Yeah, $15 for each boot sounds like a lot less but the work stinks.

Find out what he means and exactly which parts need replacing.

 

Something I did notice after I did my job is any of the grease that got into the boot spun out onto the car so all the cleaning I did was for naught. But on the plus side it won't rust where the grease is so there is a silver lining.

 

Another point, if you find that the CV joint is good and only the boots are torn then reverse them when you put it back together. That is, put the LH axle on the RH side and the RH axle on the LH side. It puts all the wear on the opposite side of the cage.

 

I did mine and it was a disaster. took a lot of time,very messy. I ended up replacing them with the pre assembled kit. I think they were $150 each, but in the end, it was worth it.... for me.

 

Yup, they're reversible to double the use, just like a condom.

 

Can you get a local driveline shop to rebuild the later (86' to 95') axle assemblies for $150 each?

On these later axle assemblies, since the outer CV joint can't be disassembled without special tools, all you can reasonably do, provided the joint is not contaminated with dirt, is replace the outer boot.

 

Well, you can flush the outers clean, especially with a parts washer pump, and repack.

I've done 5 sets now and they all work great.

If no pitting, they should work for you.

 

if your going to pull them out check the boots carefully think about replacing them all then swap sides with the axles should be fine not a hard job to do but getting the axle nut off can be difficult I ended up buying a 3/4 drive ratchet and socket to get the nut off after I broke 3 1/2 drive ratchets it also helps to buy the alen key socket and long extension for removing the inner cv joint bolts I usually just clamp vicegrips on the shaft to keep it from turning but a screwdriver in the rotor vents works well too. Have fun have lots of hand towels ready its messy (cleaning them is a good job for that annoying person that always wants to help he he )

Paul

 

This is a pic of the Cheater Bar I used to overcome the 320'lbs...

 

I did this job on my 79 last year and it was the 2nd nastiest job I have done behind the gas tank r&r. The grease just seems to get everywhere. The actual work wasn't that bad. Get some good grease cutter to clean things up. I took, them completely apart, cleaned everythign within an inch of its life, painted everything, new boots and back together. For me the hardest part was getting the angle right to put them back in. I discovered that tieing the upper two holes together with a twist tie, and rotating the tire would set the angles so that I could get the bolts in. If they are buggered, be sure to replace them, you will thank yourself next time.

 

How do you tell if the metal parts need replacing or just clean,lube, reboot? Gunar